As in another members thread I posted about wanting to use rebar but transporting the 10 footers is a problem. So I’m thinking I can get away with toteing a 7 foot . So a 7’ with a coupler mated to a 3’ peice gives me the length. The coupler at 3’ would act as the lock stop. Good idea ?

I switched away from rebar to fiberglas, I'm glad I did. Much easier on the "carry" in and out. I wouldn't want mine shorter than 10. Or with a weak spot.

I have haul 8ft ones in small pickup at angle in box, with one end sticking out above tailgate at angle

I guess If I had to use a drowning system back away from the road or easy accese I'd be using cable.
Or I would be using 330s.

I dont think you want a beaver fighting the connected part, and thats exactly where he will be when he hits the end of the rod.

I use cable all the time, and I anchor the outer end with my 10' fiberglass rods. My stop, about a foot or 16" up is my lower end anchor point .

Guess I’ll stick with cable and sacks filled with what I can find at the site. Thanks gents!

Rebar has always worked for me - Tough to "tote" but, profecient.

2nd

Don't know much about beaver but the few I have trapped used the bag and rock anchor. Piece of cable and one stake. , wondered why someone would carry around a piece of steel 8ft long. Just me........................

Some of us don't have any rocks...

Large truck sized inner tubes will hold any kind of material. Just cut them so you have 2 sections wire one end shut. When you get to the location fill with what ever Is handy. Then tie It shut and add the drowning cable.

I've used about every method of drowning system except chain, which is basically the same as cable.

You're going to do the work either way...

Drowning rods make for fast sets. But toting them in can be a pain in the butt.

Toting an empty sack, tube, etc... into a set is easy. But then you have to shovel it full, tie it off, wade out and sink it...

You just have to figure out which pain in the butt is easier for you.

Mike

Trap by the truck with a rack on top to hold drowners, 10 ft no problems.

Buy a truck with an 8ft box.

I know rods are a no-brainer if you are trapping out of a boat. At least, I am a firm believer.

I use chain now with brake rotars as my weight.

I once got a 20 foot 5/8 stick 20 foot long piece of steel rod home by using the passengers mirror!

I use fiber rods, rebar, cable with weights, and cable with Pogo's. They all have their place. If I'm going far from the truck, I use cable and Pogo's. I made a long driver that works great. One of these days I'll do a thread with pictures. Works slick when you have a lot of equipment to carry.

Local guy here don't use drowners . Stakes the with about 6 ft of cable or chain. Claims he seldom looses one. If he does loose one its only a toe pinch. Claims they are waiting on the shore like adog chained up.

Yep, back when I went to school and couldn't afford a truck, I had a Chevy Cavalier hatchback. Ripped the back seat out and "eye bolted" 2x4s to the roof for a canoe rack (that look was pretty popular with the college women I found . I tossed a lot of dead critters in the back of that little car. The last 2 deer I shot went in the back of my new focus while my truck sat in the driveway. Whatever works for a guy.

ON the drowning rods, I have some in 8-12 foot lengths. I rarely use anything besides the 12 footers, however.

I have the fiberglass rods and 1/2" rebar. The rebar is a lot easier to shove into the ground and get "set" but those fiberglass rods sure are nice and light.

I was up near 50 fiber rods at one point. It's the best way to go IMO. The only time this is no good is if the bottom is too Rocky. Sand bags and cable is also a good way to go. Fill with what is at the trapping site.

Where does a guy get a 10' fiberglass rod? And how are you anchoring the top end?

He's right.

Ten feet of chain. A stake driven 10' from the bank. Add a window weight or a tie plate to the trap chain. 95% of the time you will have a drowned beaver. That small amount of weight will tire a beaver In no time flat. And a couple of wraps around the stake and It's lights out.

Rally Hess sells premade drowning rods. I believe Grainger sells 10 foot rots and youll have to make the attachment points and buy or make a lock.

http://thebeav.us/Drowning%20System.html

This should help you out with how to make your connections to the rod.

The pictures show the Rods I own... I bought them from Mike Kelly on here and they are Awesome. The Top is shown for using Double re bar stakes with a washer welded on top. Sometimes if the soil I'm staking in is soft I add an Extension cable to the top and just snap one end to a top loop along side the stake, and the other end of the cable extension anchors further up the bank.

I love drowning rods; way easier to use over cables with a sack. I've always found 8 footers work in every situation with a good trap like the CDR7.5 when 330s won't work.

You also put me on to two anchor points on the drowning rod so if the beaver pulls the bottom out, it can't get back to shore. If it's deep enough you don't even need to stick the end into the bottom.

For a lock we use the butterfly things for double staking land traps......jk

Good Idea.

Beav it looks to me like you took someone’s tire chains apart , lol !

If Friar would pipe up on this it would be nice. He has a nifty little anchor he just welds on. He did all my rods in about 10 minutes one night. Works well in both muck and sandy bottoms.

You have a good eye.
Never tangles and Is about as stout as It gets.

I thought I was the only cheap guy who used tire chains! Maybe a WI thing.

I have some on rat traps and the rats go straight down.

Brian