The butt crack should have a piece of rod welded over it so chain doesnt get caught in it.

It needs such a change over to work well, it just easier and better to get good designed drag

At a military surplus store in the 1980's when I was long-lining I bought a supply of 1-1/4I.D. 10.6oz nuts to slip over the shank of such drags. I did it to add weight, weight that may have helped a little. Those hex nuts have an outside diameter of 2.0". To my surprise, the drag marks left by 'nutty' drags is about 10 times better than same drags without the nut. I have seen pictures of short pieces of rebar welded crossways in hanks of drags to hopefully perform the same function. In my opinion it's the third dimension rather than the weight that helps the most.

Bet you're right Furvor, raising the shank would cause a better dig angle.

If rebar is welded in the shank I would suggest having it only stick out about an inch on each side so the drag would still lay essentially flat. The rebar more or less cuts into the ground while the curved drag prongs catch bushes, etc. With 8' of chain once movement is stopped the animal circles and whaps up.

That is not the right drag if there is nothing but dirt and grass for it to catch onto.