I believe I've heard of folks using a torch to weaken the springs of coil spring traps for use on muskrats. Maybe weaken isn't the right term, but that's what it amounts to. I checked the archives and couldn't find any info on this technique.

Any tips or tricks on how to do it, or just hit em with the torch and go by feel?

I've been doing It for a few years. And It does improve your catch rate when trapping rats.

I built a jig so I could place the traps 12 at a time. It was just 2 pieces of wood and you placed the tang end of the trap frame In It. This held the trap In place and kept them at a angle so the springs were easy to heat.

I would start out with about 24 seconds per spring. Let cool and then set them. I ended up using about 35 seconds per spring.

I used one of those brenza-matic torches. The hottest part of the flame when adjusted Is the very tip. Try and keep the heating as even as you can.
Then when you get done weakening the springs add on those over sized pans and you will have some rat killing gear.

When I started out trapping In the Dakotas with stools and floats I actually witnessed rats sitting right on top of the traps and not setting them off. Most of my traps were new Duke 1.75s and 1 1/2s and as you know they have very strong traps. Sure you can set with a hair trigger and catch rats but It's all about how many your missing. Those strong trap springs are always creating pressure against the dog even when setting on a hair trigger or when you short notch.
Don't go over board. Do a few and see how you like them.

Thanks Beav, that's exactly the advice I was looking for!

Da Beav is back.....any moose meat?

Don't you mean SWAMP DONKEYS ?

Tlguy, I talked to Beav about this eight years ago. It makes a big difference especially when you are setting traps while standing in water. Easier on the hands, hard on the rats.

I would also add additional chain - to make about 30" long.

Brian

And when you are running 200 to 300 traps per day It takes a lot less hand strength.

No moose or caribou. Lots of projects and hanging out with family.

I had every intention of buying more #2 chain at the WTA convention this past weekend, but let's just say it didn't pan out. I think the 1.5 coil spring traps are plenty heavy by themselves, so I'm thinking of making up some 18-24" cable extensions for connecting to my bamboo stakes. An adjustable loop on both ends with a quick link to attach to the traps, or I may just loop them onto the end of the trap chain.

tlguy….Most would be surprised at how long a rat can swim around with a 1.5 on his foot. Surprised me. I added a section of 3/0 chain for this reason.

If you are having trouble getting rat traps to fire, you need to get the right trap for the job. Get some #1.5 Bridgers with the paws-i-trip pans (which come standard) and you will have a better rat trap. They are also heavier and have a much smoother jaw. Give them a try, you won't be disappointed.

Why go out and buy new traps when you can tweak the ones you have. That's what trappers do.
And those paws I trip pans aren't as big as the add on pinch pans. And I my estimation still don't spring as easy as a weakened spring trap. Until you weaken those springs you will always have to much spring pressure pushing up on the dog.

I use traps that are at least 15 years old and still have original springs, mostly Dukes. I bent the dog down a little and they work like a charm. I was in SD and had no problem with rats sitting on my traps but I used stools so trap was under water.

That works to a point. But does that make your trap spring to easy?

I like a full notch I want that trap going off with that critter fully committed. So I get a high catch on that rat or mink. A bit of pan drop before the trap springs Isn't to critical when trapping rats and mink.

But It's all about what works for you on your line.

My remarks about the Bridger #1.5s was geared towards not ruining your springs, and being able to use your traps for other critters. Seems silly to go to all that trouble, ruining the springs, when the solution is as simple as purchasing the right product to begin with. Beav, have you ever used the Bridgers? I have taken several thousand rats with them, and the Dukes, and the Bridgers are a far better choice from what I have seen.

Let me expand on my previous post. The Bridgers, because of the pan design, fire much easier than the Dukes, without destroying the springs. They will fire almost as easily as a long spring and still be, somewhat, immune to being set off by wave slap. They also have a very fur friendly, rounded, jaw compared to the Duke. I get the whole, sore hands thing, but I'm not about to spend the time and money required to make $60 worth of traps into $20 worth of traps to make a rat-specific trap. I can find better "tinkering" projects. LOL

I have 400 1 1/2 dukes and they are geared toward rat trapping. But I have held lots of mink and even coon. Once the trap has sprung It's locked up and heavy springs aren't needed for this type of trapping.
But the most important aspect Is that I don't have to go out and buy 400 new Bridgers. LOL

And I have a pretty good arsenal of coyote traps. And quit trapping coon and beaver so I'm good to go.

You said you've caught 1000s of rats In those traps and I don't doubt It. But how many have you missed? I have caught 1000s of rats In brand new 1 1/2 Dukes right out of the box. But once I saw lots of rat sitting on top of those traps and eating the bait with out setting off the trap I started to wondering how many was I MISSING. Once I pussified the springs my catch rate went up per check.
The other thing Is the hand fatigue Issue. Set 300 + traps per day on the rat line and your going to feel It. No big deal setting a couple doz each day but make that 300 and It's going to leave a mark.



They work for me and lots of other rat trappers do It like I explained.

I have to admit, if I already owned them (Dukes), I wouldn't be selling them cheap and replacing with Bridgers. I'm just saying there are better alternatives for no muss-no fuss rat traps if a person is hunting for new stuff or good, used, alternatives.

With rat prices where they are right now, modifying the traps I have seems like a better idea than buying new. And my Duke 1.5s are dedicated rat traps, so weakening the springs is my plan for now.

Thanks for the tips guys.

I've used the Bridgers. I don't care for them personally. I've won a few dozen since at various banquets and I end up giving them away.

It all boils down to the individual.

I don’t understand how one type a trap can work well for some individuals and poorly for others. I never used Bridgers but if they are a northwoods copy I would pass.