I used to reload waterfowl loads because it was fun and I wanted to find a faster than factory load for a little cheaper. I got to a point where I found a recipe I liked but had trouble when crimping the shell closed it would make the base of the shell buckle or bulge some. Because of this consistent problem I got rather discouraged and stopped doing it for a year or so now.

Does anybody have suggestions/solutions how to fix this?

Well .....................maybe ! Sounds like stack height is the problem.

Tell us your load components !

x2 what White said. More than likely the wrong wad or your final crimping die is set incorrectly. Post a picture of a finished shell if you can.

Were you using a good quality casing? If I remember, high brass is recommended and a poor quality casing will cause trouble.

Sounds like the wrong wad to me also.

It does sound like White & Rally (& Finster) are on to it.

Two things I can think of:
1) Shotshell reloading can be unpredictable and the EXACT list of components, particularly the hull type and wad type MUST be used. Any substitutions stand to create both wad stack height problems and can also cause high pressures. High pressures, even if not into the danger zone, will blow patterns.

Make sure your load is straight from the manual. When your almost-complete shell is ready to crimp, the shot column will be right at the bottom edge of the old crimp. If the column is higher than that, you either have the wrong hull, the wrong wad, or insufficient wad seating pressure. You cannot seat the wad with the crimp tool.

2) Many shotshell loaders have two crimp adjustments. The first adjustment is the die body, which rolls the crimp inward to start it and then provides a slight bevel at the front end of the loaded shell. The second adjustment is the central plunger that closes the crimp and can provide a slightly recessed crimp.

If the die body is adjusted down too far, it will cause the hull walls to buckle. If it is not adjusted far enough down, the front end of the shell will have slight lip that impairs feeding. If the central plunger is too far down, it can also cause bulging but usually just causes the crimp to fall through.

The brass height is not an issue. High brass is only used to convince hunters that the shell is a heavier load. Many shotshell makers use identical internal hull construction and simply use higher and lower brass to denote light/heavy loads. Shotshells can be manufactured with no brass at all.

For example, Winchester compression formed hulls are the same inside and load the same, but the brass may be only 3/8" high on the target loads, 1/2" high on "game loads" and up to about 3/4" on the SuperX magnum loads, but they all the same internally and will all load the same.

I will agree that low quality hulls, like the Federal dark red plastics, Estate, etc., can be harder to load consistently. Even these load OK if the correct recipe is followed, the correct wad seating pressure is used and the crimping station is correctly adjusted.

2 things on this. Do you have enough room in the case for the final crimp to be made? If you do set your pre crimp to were the mouth is almost closed and back off the final crimp so you are not putting as much pressure on the case.
I reload all my own trap and field loads for pheasants and these are the 2 culprits usually.

I'm far from an expert at loading and haven't done any shot shells for several years now. I had a similar problem with some casings though. Usually had to adjust the final crimper back it off a bit, if the recipe for the casing was right.
I have the old Mec 600 and Versa Mec one set up 2 3/4 one for 3in. Steel loads I was doing went in Federal Gold Metal 2 3/4 and Federal 3 in steel casing.


Mac

No load details means everyone has to guess. Sounds like cramming too much stuff in the hull.

What is the recipe?

I'll have to dig the book out this weekend

Brass height is for the shooter. I always just used AA for everything from black bird loads to heavy fox loads.

Something is needing changed. Almost everything it could be has been mentioned

What wildflights said X2

Wrong wadding.

Back again! I finally dug out the book and got some time to hop on here.

Federal plastic case w/ paper basewad, fold 8pt crimp.
SR 4756 powder
28.5gr charge w/ 1oz of #2 steele shot
Fed. 209A primer
1 BP BP Gas Seal
1 BP BP12 Tuff
14gr #47 buffer
1 20ga 0.030 card over the shot then crimp

The shotshell usually finished with only 1/4" of space for the crimp which is definitely not enough, that is even after tapping and shaking the shell to get everything to settle. I also need to cut the wads myself and use 4 cuts. The shell usually buckles at the base of the wad, sometimes in the middle of the shell. I have three mishaps I brought home but cannot get a good photo that shows it. The bulge is small but noticeable.

Where did you get that load and how old is it ?

Is this a 3" hull ??

I don't find any loads using that powder on the Hodgdon site and nothing on Alliant either. Suspect your problem is the steel shot

Given the components its gotta be a ballistics product load.

Any chance the buffer has settled to bottom of wad vs dispersing between the steel?

Have you tried pulling out the overshot card or seeing how many pellets would need to come out to make correct stack height?

You won't find any current data for this powder as it's discontinued.

But it sure was a fine powder for pushing 1 1/4oz lead loads in its day.

I have had trouble with some of the Ballistic Product loads too. I ended up having to by one of their roll crimpers and that solved the crimp problem / getting all the components into the shell but made another step in the loading process.Maybe STEEL Powder would be a good choice since 4756 is gone now?

Got this out of the Lyman 5th edition. 2 3/4 load. I haven't messed around with it much because everything I've read everywhere says that modifying a load for steel shot is asking for an accident to happen because the steel isn't as soft as lead, causing pressures to be less forgiving.

lose the buffer, it serves no purpose in a steel load...but way to much crap for a simple load..gas seal,buffer,overshot card..ballistic products recipes are notorius for being over pressure..11,500psi the max for 3" 12ga barrels. Check out precision reloading they have a recipe book called lightning steel, lots of 7/8-1 1/8oz loads..better components also. Send me a pm i've got few recipes i can give ya....

I just looked up the exact load you posted and the recipe is correct. The only thing I can think of is you might have put the steel shot in the wad cup before the buffer?

One other thing, if the PAPER BASE WAD is subjected to moisture it will swell and the only direction it can go is towards the mouth of the case. Good luck. I have used the Lyman #5 with good results with lead, steel, and buck shot and have had excellent results. Have not used the BP components. RSI and precision reloading for steel loads.

I'd say that could be a possibility. I always put it in at the end because that is how it is listed, which I thought was the order the components were supposed to go.

Sorry I asked that question backwards . The shot does go in before the buffer.