Hey Calvin 1" smaller may make a difference In some situations but not In a 330. LOL

I honestly think dukes are the way to go in a area that might see some theft! They can say what they like but. I got several 20 year old conis and by far the duke springs are considrabley stronger than the vics

I got dukes that have been used for several years in great shape. I put them up with the springs set for about 7 years and pulled them out 2 weeks ago slapped them in some dams and stacked up some meat. Not a duke fan when it comes to footholds but i like the 330's. I can only speak on 330's because thats the only body grippers I use.

Any of you folks painting your 330's?
Can I wipe them off with acetone, dry, and spray with Rustoleum primer?
I cleaned my Victors last year and brush coated with FMJ. Worked ok for a while.

I speed dip mine every 3 or 4 years. I don't go all hog wild with dipping.

It's more like 1 1/2", and it can make a difference between a ticket and not if you get the wrong conservation officer and they half to be at least 1/2 submerged. It's hard to predict sometimes how much the water will drop in the spring by the time it's time to check traps again. Other than that, Duke springs are really strong.

I have only caught upwards of 50 beaver all in Dukes. Would maybe change to a victor 4 way trigger though in the future.

If the trap Is used completely under water just spread the triggers. No beaver Is going to get through that trap with stock triggers.
When partially submerged just bend the triggers to from a T same thing Is going to happen one dead beaver. Never saw the need for a 4 way trigger.

I let mine get a little surface rust and then spray paint with rustoluem camo paint. This year I also dipped in FMJ and they have held up well.

Yes, Goldy...as you stated (and what I meant to say), the more squat Dukes are nice for those marginal water depth areas where the half submerged law we have here can be of concern. I should have been more clear.

best thing I found toe set 330's with is a rope. Light and compact. I'm running Dukes and Belisle.

Really?

I trapped several beaver ( including one at 40lbs) this year with no problems at all in Duke 330's. However, after buying a few Belisle, I like the fact that they close tighter.

Regulations specify "in the water". In the canal, along the banks it's usually about 1/2 to 3/4" submerged for bait, crossover, or castor mound sets. If I'm in a drainage ditch it could be about the same or more depending on water depth. I re-read the regulations, the Dukes will be ok. Reads 10" jaw spread. On this specific property they don't want 220's or 280's set for beaver/otter.
Beav, I'll be sticking with my RTS setter.

They aren't 10x10, but they will hold two otter at once and they close tight enough to hold a beaver by the tail.

[quoteThey aren't 10x10, but they will hold two otter at once and they close tight enough to hold a beaver by the tail.
][/quote]

It takes an awfully good beaver trapper to catch them by the tail no matter what brand used. Especially using an economy brand such as a Duke.

Kirk, I wish I could claim skill, but it was dumb luck. I saw a demo on how to make a dam break set with a body griper. I guess he backed into the trap while trying to fix the hole.

The reason duke bend is the supper strong springs way stonger than victor or bridger i prefer belisle myself but have the other brands for high theft spots

Long ago lost count how many beaver I caught in Duke 330's plus many otter.

Duke 330's SUCK BIG TIME!!!!! If you want to get rid of them PM me for my address and you can send them to me and I will dispose of them for you at no cost whatsoever!!!