I had some questions on how you guys get it done with 330’s in a couple different scenarios regarding to setting up...

Scenario 1: you see a main run going wherever. You go setup and it’s pretty much hard rocky bottom you can get sticks in to support your 330’s. How do you get them in place if you can shove em in the ground ?

Scenario 2: you’ve found a run (main one coming off the hut in general. and this time you can get some sticks In the ground for support or whatever you gotta do, but the channel is 3 beavers wide. Not even 4 330’s can cover it. Is there anything you really can do with your 330 in a spot like that?

I can do drown sets but they’ve been educated and I’m looking for something a little different and you can’t beat a run of the mill 330 coni!

I was gunna try like a piece of aspen or something tied to the trigger but better ask here for first

Here in PA your not aloud to trap right off the hut it has to be atleast 15’ away

I'm no expert,but are you trapping open water or under ice.
You can narrow down a beaver run with fencing.You can cut down on the fencing by using traps set side by side-they will produce multiple catches.
You can use two long poles to make a tee pee set and wire the top to a crosser to stabilize if the bottom is hard.
If your using a baited 330 under ice,attach bait stick to the jaw or rivet,not to the trigger.And hang it just under the ice,not on bottom.

Can you use i bigger body grip in your state? I use the 1022 trap for wide runs and funnel them in. I would post a link but not sure if that is allowed. I have had great luck with those traps. Double the width of a 330.

Discarded Christmas trees make excellent stream narrowers. Cedar trees do too if its too far to drag a Christmas tree.

you can block the run with sticks acrost the run.

You don't need to overdo the fencing-just enough to suggest to the beaver that the path of least resistance is thru the trap.

No I think 330 is the largest we’re aloud

Trapping water... very deep water and it’s very difficult to get a 330 in this big of a run. I have t been doin this for too many years so there could be something out there I’m missing for a scenario like this or a hard bottom

I guess I should of been more specific. It’s not only wide. But it’s also about 6 feet deep almost.

If the beavers are already educated, as you say, 330s may be a waste of time. Foot holds or snares may be your best bet. Beavers will often swim right into a snare without blocking if it's set exactly where they swim. Blocking and exposed stakes usually spook smart beavers.

You can use KB stabilzers on rocky bottoms you get some hagz 330 brackets on rebar that you can drive through the bottoms.

As far as the wide spots, if you cant pin them down, make them come to you or find other spots.

Don't matter deep or shallow,same thing with the fencing and or multiple traps.
For deep water use the tee pee.

^^what Boco said,,,,,or use a Coni-plate if shallower...this one does not have a hole drilled yet, for the keeper wire to attach.

Iam no expert.....but I clamp my 330’s on these KB Stablizers and wire them to the trap...( so I don’t lose them when the trap fires)... they are on all my 330’s ....and no sticks needed....except for fencing in ...or a Dive pole over the top . A lot of rocky streams up here.

I had a few of those for a while Nessie.
They all went to the dump,they were always tangled up with traps chain and wire,lol.

Make the beaver come to you. They have to exit the pond in search of food.....so make a fake pull out with your boot....get that 330 half in the water and put some lure behind the trap....or some fresh poplar sticks. No need trying to set a trap in 4-6 feet of water.

KB stabilizers are great but I like to keep my trap’s cable clear of the KB.

You can use rocks holding the springs to keep the trap in place if you can’t push in stabilizers.


If it’s too wide for a 330 or two, go to where there’s a pinch point.




Boco has sent more beavers to Heaven than many, if not most trappers on this forum. Boco likes wire. Must be a Canadian thing. Cable for me. Cable with a swivel is even better.

Wire is cheap,and it is easier to see degradation in wire and change it than it is in cable.I usually cut off all the old wire and use new wire every fall from a reel on the bike when setting.I also find wire more versatile.I re use the old wire for wiring bait,or tying up boxes etc.

Don't need to see damage in cable, you can feel it. Looks are deceiving.

I’ve yet to have a stainless cable fail, it’s more expensive initially, but it’s an investment. It can be had at reasonable prices if you shop for it.


Snares are legal in Pennsylvania. If there are trees in the water, you can hang loops off of trees. I prefer rebar for those sets

I use snares a lot and wax them to make them last long enough to make a catch-about 3 years at an avg jackpot.Cable rots from the inside out and will fail without any warning.
I check my cable by bending at the ferrel.If its degraded a few strands will snap.When that happens its time to change it out.
Just a lot cheaper and more convenient for me to use wire on traps.

Speaking of cable......have you ever jumped up on the tail gate of your truck....and those cables give out....lol

It's why I never like loading ATVs or lawnmowers onto a truck bed. No matter how new the truck or how new the replacement cables.

Lots of good info guys. Thanks a lot.

We had a thaw here and some spots it’s ice some not. Ju so happens the runs are thawed but some of the slides are still froze up. This is why I was really trying to use a 330 and see what kind of ideas were out
There. Do beaver always hug the bottom of a run when swimming ?

Yes they will be on bottom entering and exiting the house for quite a ways.
The beaver activity is what keeps the ice thin or open above a run.That is how you identify them.That is where you want to drop your traps.Feel with your feet(chest waders) or with a stick for the sides of the run.This will give you an idea of how many traps you can drop in there.Wider runs you can set two or three side by side.a lot of runs are only wide enough for one trap,you can set a couple or three in series along those runs for multiple catches.
Study some drained beaver ponds in summer so you know what to look/feel for under the ice.

Generally...that's how the runs get formed to start with from the beaver's feet kicking on or near the bottom and kicking the bottom out.

I have made it a point to be able to set 100% conibears for beaver. I can make just about any potential spot become a 330 spot. It just depends on how hard I want to work. So yes, I will pass up spots looking for better spots. Par for the course. But if need be I can put in the work and make a good set. I block off big areas with branches, dried grass, ferns, evergreen brush, whatever is handy. You want the beaver to see that there is an obvious best place to go through to get a good sniff of that castor mound. I also like to slick up the other side of the entrance to make it look like lots of other beaver have already gone through there.

Sometimes I will throw a handful of fresh woodchips on the slicked up area for added eye appeal.

You may notice that I have a thin diameter wire attached to the trigger wire ends with ferrules. Not necessary for beaver trapping but I had done some up for otter where it helps get a good neck/chest catch 99% of the time.

Good set, have you ever found using no lure for castor mounds works or is it essential for it to work. For example I’m not sure I’m my spot but others spots where pressure is high, would lure in fact spook em ?

That’s good info for now and the future when I’m lookin for runs being used. Funny, explains why half the beaver pond where the runs are aren’t frozen but the other half is.

I tried conibearing some holes on another spot, the were below surface level and not very cloudy so I figured what the heck I’ll slap a 330 over the hole in the bank but no avail. Must be abandon

Charles Dobbins wrote one of the best beaver books, there are several others about as good but not many any better.

I will sometimes add a few drops of gliserin mixed with beaver oil to my wood chips and use that in lieu of castor.

As far as setting body grippers in front of den entrances I've had mixed results. So I usually opt for other spots.

Expert beaver trappers ? lol

I fabricate something from the materials handy and lure with a castor based lure of my own making.

Educated how ? And I wouldn't recommend bait on triggers in the two scenarios you mentioned.

Boco, I noticed your trigger wires are not spread, they look like they come from the factory, just pushed to the side a bit. Why do you set them like that? Just curious.

I'm tempted to answer for him but Boco will see this tomorrow and tell you.

Lets the rats go thru.

I just mean they seen a lot of trappers, been belly nipped a few times by foot holds, etc