Strictly Trapping


No Profanity *** No Flaming *** No Advertising *** No Anti Trappers *** No Politics
No Non-Target Catches *** No Links to Anti-trapping Sites *** No Avoiding Profanity Filter


Home~Trap Talk~ADC Forum~Trap Shed~Wilderness Trapping~International Trappers~Fur Handling

Auction Forum~Trapper Tips~Links~Gallery~Basic Sets~Convention Calendar~Chat~ Trap Collecting Forum

Trapper's Humor~Strictly Trapping~Fur Buyers Directory~Mugshots~Fur Sale Directory~Wildcrafting

Trapper's Tales~Words From The Past~Legends~Archives~Kids Forum~Lure Formulators Forum


~~~ Dobbins' Products Catalog ~~~


Trading Post
(Please support F&T Trading Post, our sponsor for the Trapping Only Forum)



TrappersPost
Please support Trappers post, a sponsor of the Strictly Trapping Forum



Print Thread
Hop To
Page 2 of 2 1 2
Re: Adjusting Coni Triggers [Re: HayDay] #7050680
11/15/20 02:17 PM
11/15/20 02:17 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 2,294
PA
L
lumberjack391 Offline
trapper
lumberjack391  Offline
trapper
L

Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 2,294
PA
I dont think "speeding" is what gets mink, muskrat, braver and otter hip caught. Its trigger configuration and travel. Sometimes the trigger isnt tripped until the animals humped back hits/pulls it and with longer trigger travel, you get hip caught animals.

Re: Adjusting Coni Triggers [Re: Paul Dobbins] #7051619
11/16/20 08:04 AM
11/16/20 08:04 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,423
Pennsylvania
H
Hern Offline
trapper
Hern  Offline
trapper
H

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,423
Pennsylvania
Originally Posted by Paul Dobbins
Originally Posted by HayDay
That seems logical, but the dog has an optimum spot, which is right on the edge of letting go. If you just file the dog's notch deeper so the dog now rests on top of the clip, you have not changed anything.


That's why the bevel is filed on the front part of the dog notch, as shown in Figure B. It decreases the amount of travel to the extent you want before the dog is released from the jaw.


Originally Posted by Paul Dobbins
"BTW, who were the authors of those basic set articles? They are really helpful."
I did most of them.


I take the basic set conibear 'front bevel; is for 330's or 220's. The beginning says- Here is an article I wrote which was published in The Trapper and Predator Caller magazine pertaining to adjusting large conibears.

Paul, is the filed bevel on front part of dog notch ONLY for large Conibears? Is front bevel needed for 160's or 110's?

Re: Adjusting Coni Triggers [Re: HayDay] #7060308
11/23/20 09:05 PM
11/23/20 09:05 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,514
Kanabec Cty, MN
D
Drakej Offline
trapper
Drakej  Offline
trapper
D

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,514
Kanabec Cty, MN
Anybody have a mod for the bridge 155's that don't seem to have the trigger side notched deep enough for the dog to drop far enough onto jaw rod to set easy and not go off without trigger being moved? They are SO touchy. Any over dipping them really sets them off. Other wise a very nice trap IMO. Tried squeezing them to increase notch depth but that didn't really happen and just slowed rotation travel( too tight on jaw.


I've learned enough thru the years to now know that I don't know enough. KNOWLEDGE IS FREEDOM.
Re: Adjusting Coni Triggers [Re: HayDay] #7060592
11/23/20 11:20 PM
11/23/20 11:20 PM
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,382
Iowa
~ADC~ Offline
The Count
~ADC~  Offline
The Count

Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 16,382
Iowa
If you are just targeting coons, you can pinch your trigger wires together, put the tips of them in the chuck of your drill and twist them snug together, trigger wires will last much longer.

Page 2 of 2 1 2
Previous Thread
Index
Next Thread

Moderated by  Drifter, Wolfdog91 

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1