I know we have a few mechanics here and a lot more who work in their own stuff.

I am a definite believer in the use of anti seize , Napa or Permatex being the brands I use most often I think Napa is Permatex rebranded they didn't used to put both logos on the can but I see they do now

Permatex is fairly inexpensive when purchased at farm and fleet I keep a can in most every tool box and use it on most things I even use it on choke tubes and breech plugs have done much better with that vs grease alone

this guy does some great test videos


it does point out however that anti seize isn't intended as a friction reducing lubrication for moving parts when he tries it as an engine oil replacement , when it rubs a lot it can be abrasive.

so while it has worked in the past better than nothing the caliper pins on your brakes should be greased and the threads can be anti seized

Good stuff , use it a lot.

I always use the marine grade, no matter how small the amount is that you try and use, it's still all over everything when you are done.

has anyone tried the Castel Muscle Grease used as a spray anti seize , I see some people using it when doing wheel hub assemblies on trucks so that when they do the next one it will come off much easier. I have just used Permatex for this in the past but could see where it could be a time saver if you did a bunch of them.


25-27 years ago when I worked on the farm we had a guy Jerry that when laid off from his regular Job in the winter would come wrench for the farm/construction business and get equipment ready to go for the spring. we did a lot of work with pumps and small engines and often corrosive stuff , he was a huge fan of anti seize , he took it a bit farther , he mixed a pound of anti seize with a pound of high temp grease then put it in quart paint cans and used a narrow paint brush to apply it.

it extended the product considerably

I never needed that much a 8 ounce can lasts me years and as I have a couple of them around all the time

doe the grease help or hurt or just act as a carrier to extend the more expensive product that people tent to over apply any way ?

here is another good video

looks like I may be switching from Kroil to Sea foam and it won't hurt my feelings that it is about half the price

Been using this ..for ovah 40 years....and it’s made locally too...best stuff out there

never see it for sale around here , I looked them up

http://fredericksealstore.com/product/never-freeze-copper-paste/

do you use it on the brake slides and pins , or grease on the caliper pins

Always used the aluminum based permatex. Never used copper or nickel. Worked at a fertilizer plant for a few summers when we didn't have too much work on the farm. Anti-seize was used on everything or it didn't last a couple weeks. Nitrogen will sure rust metal fast but the that anti-seize was the only thing that worked. Grease didn't last so long. Working there you really learned how to take apart equipment with hand tools and a heat wrench. Seems like anytime you used the anti-seize it wound up all over your body.

For brakes, there's grease made specifically for it. I use it on slide pins, shims, and where the caliper and piston contact the pads. Not much, just a super thin film. And make sure to clean up the rust from any contact areas, too. Reducing friction and preventing rust build up is the key to a squeak-free brake job. I use loctite on the bolts, only after cleaning the threads with a wire wheel.

Anti-sieze isn't meant to be a lubricant for moving parts, but does a good job at keeping things from sticking/rusting together. I use it a lot. Not just on bolt threads, but all kinds of stuff. It's messy though.

this stuff for the brake slides , pins ect. https://www.permatex.com/products/l...ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant-2/

With 21 years in the sanitation business I used anti-seize liberally. A twisted off wheel stud on a garbage truck will make a smart man a believer pretty quickly.

There is a marine version for stainless and aluminum. The copper in regular anti-seize causes corrosion with stainless, aluminum, and salt water.

But I've always just used a coating of marine grease on the threads and everything I've done this too has always come apart later. Corroded threads get cleaned with a wire brush or I chase internal threads with a tap. Sometimes stainless fasteners in aluminum get ugly in salt water.

any thoughts on the mixing anti seize with grease to extend it ?

I have heard of people when anti seize gets old and thickens adding a little oil to get it to brush on again well.

keeping the lid on probably helps avoid that some , I must use enough to have not run into that issue with it getting too thick to brush on.

I have been using this from the same open can for over 30 years and never had it go bad

I love Anti Seize, use it a lot. The stuff has a shelf life of about a million years too.

I have a love hate relationship with anti-sieze. I love that it works wonderfully, I hate that no matter how little I use, I end up with silver war paint.

Cross threading also works.

ONCE.