Pulling rebar with vice grips and trap hammer is tuff on the back. Saw Coon creek video with double cable setup and said could pull one handed with hay hook had my interest. Don't know if best setup is 12"or 18" cable or chain. Thinking 12" would handle 95% of sets plus adding 4" hole for trap bed and room for chain. You guys have any preference.

I like the bullet anchors on 1/8” cable. I use a heavy chain and my truck to pull them. Leave the chain hooked up to my d rings, drive up, pop the trap, put hook through loop of cable, reverse, remove trap, and go. I like mine about 12-15” for most of my trapping.

Make your retrieval cable shorter than your anchor cable

If you’re trapping right now you ain’t driving an anchor 6”, lol. I’m having to chisel out a bed using drags.

You might consider regular super stake and a good puller as another option. A puller makes pretty easy work of it too.

I use my drill and auger to bore a hole next to my chain/cable. By doing this quite often I don't need a puller and pull them out by hand.

The finned ones with pulling boss do work IF you can get them beat into the ground. The regular ones are a pia even with a pilot hole.

I drill a pilot hole and use the finned super stakes with chain on the hold and 3/32" or 1/8" cable on the retrieval. Without the pilot hole, I would never get them in most of the time and would not get them out without an excavator.

This is the way. But my issue is auger quality, or more correctly auger wear as a year's worth of use will take those square chisel edges down to a round smooth non digging top spinning in hardened clay.

All my online searches have turned up one maker of carbide tipped augers for termite bait stations but they want well over a c-note for one if it can be found in stock. Contacted to maker and they want a full company credit report before even quoting a price.

Warrior, I use a 7/8" concrete bit on my Rotary Hammer (not a hammer drill) for frozen winter conditions pilot holes here. Can't image that (Bright Red) Georgia Clay being tougher than our 12" of frozen silty clay here. The (tool) cost of doing business ......................... the mike

Why is that?

Could not find anything on the (pulling boss).

You dont want that loose end poking out to where an animal or trap thief can see it and get hold of it easily. Plus it will interfere with your trap bedding.-

In “good dirt” I’ll use the Super Stakes and like others mentioned just drill down beside them when ready to pull. In clay I’m using drags. They’re super easy to drive in wet clay, but you ain’t getting them out when it’s dry. I even tried using a 4-wheeler once and stood that bad boy straight up, lol.

You dont want that loose end poking out to where an animal or trap thief can see it and get hold of it easily. Plus it will interfere with your trap bedding.-[/quote]
Sounds good, need to figure how deep they need driving for coyote. 18" rebar seems almost over kill and PIA double stake pulling.

Every trapper from Georgia talks about red clay as concrete. Must be sun beating down on it.

Sounds good, need to figure how deep they need driving for coyote. 18" rebar seems almost over kill and PIA double stake pulling.[/quote]
really will depend on your ground. Outside of farm land and river bottoms, youre lucky to get 10" deep unless its been a wet month.

Yeah, even with drags and chiseling out a bed I have to use good dirt/sand/peat underneath it because if it gets wet and drys then your trap is pretty much useless. It’s the Northern version of freezing for us.

We get both the concrete hard ground and the frozen ground. Y'all arent that special :P Our clay is just grey instead of red.

If you really want to save your back.....use
cabled fangs attached with a 3/16" quick link. Cut em just below ground level on pull day. Put a new one on on set day.