So, I'm getting ready to rig up 2 dozen traps for coyotes. (first timer here) I've heard you should use long chains and shock springs, then the next guy says short chains and No shock springs. Looking for some feedback on the subject...what's your preference ? Thanks in advance...

18” of chain with 3 swivel points and no dang shockspring for me.

Personal choice on 24 hour check probably doesn't make a difference,I run them on my personal traps 20 to 24" of chain.They might make a difference on poor catches????Toe catches etc.

Same as Mr. Olson. It might make a difference on a toe catch. I run about 50% shock springs on mine.

Run a pile of Jake Traps...they ALL have them on.

I have a few with springs but most without

Just more to bury under the trap IMO

Maybe if you have long checks and/or trapping for live market. Otherwise I say save your money, but I am an amateur too

Ford, chevy, or dodge. Artic cat, skidoo, or polaris. They all work. Chain choice kinda has to be trialed to see what you feel works for you. They all work fine, you will just develop a preference after a while based on experiences and concerns you may have.

I like a spring but not all of mine have one. Can't say one way or the other if it actually helps but it don't hurt.

Tried most and prefer the swiveled pit spring. JC Connors are great but the swiveled pit is all in one and doesn't require two extra swivels.

Chains I prefer short. Eight links/spring/eight links/wolf fang or superstake.

I want short because of where I trap, downtown Atlanta. I pick my sets for being hidden from view as much as anything else and I really don't need a coyote running around or bouncing around drawing eyes and comments.

Springs do help if I have to show my equipment to a prospective client, good PR.

If running rebar I do believe long is better for the side pull vs up and out.

And speaking of side pull I want my trap chain side hooked rather than center swiveled. That way the initial lunge goes sideways not straight out. You will get cutting though if the jaws aren't smooth and edges broken.

I run shock springs on all my coyote traps.

I run 6 links of chain a JC Conner Spring and 6 more links, I bed my trap so the loose has rest on the spring. I seldom have a trap tripped without something waiting for me. About a week ago I did have a wolf set off a Duke 650, no catch circle but fur and blood on the trap. That one is a puzzle still to me. I run them for pr purposes also.

wws

I personally don’t run any shock springs right now, just seems like more of a hassle to bed the trap. If going extensive check times I do believe that they can make a Difference, but I don’t worry about using them at all. When staking the traps down I use swivel at the trap 8 inches another swivel and then attach to the super stake and had no issue. If using solid stakes I like more chain to make sure the coyote is pulling more side ways. I go long hours between checks and don’t have any issues without the shock springs. IMO

Long chain makes it harder for them to pull out the stakes.

I'm far from an expert but i've seen them on long chains run so hard and hit the end that they do a complete flip. I would think a shock spring would be beneficial on long chains. I'm a short chainer myself and i double stake or cable stake so i don't worry about pumping.

I don’t have any shock springs on my coyote traps and haven’t used any for 45 years. Not sure if they work better I just haven’t used them. I run short chains with lots of swivels and we have a daily (every calendar day) trap check requirement here. I have no problems holding them with this arrangement.
Jim

100%...Spot on

If you want to be successful in trapping, there are only two things that are mandatory: the animals have to be there, and you have to know where to set your trap. After that, everything works. The bottom line is, what works best for you.

maurob's answer could be given for 99% of all trapping questions.

F = M X A . Force is equal to Mass times Acceleration (or De-acceleration). The force exerted from the anchor point to the coyote foot/leg is equal to all the weight of the trap rig and coyote's weight (give or take the weight he has on the ground) hitting a sudden stop at the end of the chain. The shock springs ABSORB some of that Force for lessening stress on a weak spot (toe catch, slippery mud on the paw, shoulder ligaments, poor staking condition, weak chain link etc.,) . Most comments said above work !!!!!!! The longer the chain the more Acceleration to deal with (more Force), same for the weight (more Mass) of the coyote. If using short chains and with a 24 hr. check, probably not needed. Long chains, longer check times, bigger coyotes etc., they may show merit (soil conditions enter into it as sandy soil is poorer footing for getting up some "steam" to hit the end of a chain). If doing research and wanting minimal stress on a coyote for radio collaring and release, the they are probably worth it. I have some good stories on entire shoulders/legs of Red Fox left in 1.5 Mont. coils with the rest of the body laying 10 - 20 ' away from the trap when I trapped in MN but that's another post. My Experience...................... the mike

I run a short chain with no spring for coyotes and have zero issues. I don’t plan on ever using them, however I’m setting up 2dz traps for lion and I will be putting a JC Connor wolf spring on each one.

Shark hunter I do the same for my lion traps as well, I put mine about 18 inches after the trap. How far from the trap do you put yours ?

I’m guessing about 16 to 18 inches.

The first time I saw the shock spring being worked, I was sold.
Better on domestics imo.