This sites posts go through so fast so I may have missed it. Is there something in the archives about snare building? I am going to start building my own and want some info. How do you load a snare? Something about a bolt in a vise?... What type of locks should be used for what type animal. I think I will be using 3/32 cable. Any pictures would be a great help.

When the right guys see this post, you'll get all the info you need.

I snare, but only for coyotes....and I use camlocks and mostly with 3/32. Making your own snares is quick and cheaper...plus it allows you to try different things.

I'd like to see some good info on loading too. I inderstand the concept, but always do it too much and end up with a slinky!

Can't seem to develope a "feel" for it. I always start to get it right, then go too far. I operate under the philisophy if a little is good, then more is better

First cut your cable to the desired length. Next, attach a stop to one end. (I pound on aluminum stops but nuts work too) Then, roll the cable between your fingers to see which way it naturally wants to curve. This is called finding the "memory" of the cable...



Then using a pair of small needle nosed pliers bend a small loop exactly back wards of the natural curl. (if the cable wants to bend down you bend the little end back up)...





Now, using a piece of smooth rod, run the first several inches of the cable over it to, in effect, curl the cable like curling a ribbon. This curl should be with the natural memory of the cable not against it like small curl at the end. This is the "loading" of the cable....





Next put on your lock. I'm using a Reichart Slammer Lock here. (180* reverse bend lock) These are one of the locks that are recommended for live snaring and on cable restraints (great for coon and beaver)....



Next add your support collar (whammy), swivel, swivel washer and end stop...



To be Iowa legal I add the nut to create a "deer stop" which pervents the loop closing smaller than 2 1/2" in diameter. (this is to allow leg caught deer to step out of the loop) You then have a completed loaded snare....



[color=Blue]Why you may ask would you want a loaded snare vs. a non-loaded snare?[/color]

Here is a quote from the Pro Snares web site that explains it best...

"Snares that are loaded properly close much easier, smoother and faster than snares that are not. Loaded snares snap shut! This will increase your neck catch ratio, reduce your misses and increase your overall catch statistics. Loaded snares not only increase your neck catch ratio, but also reduce or eliminate the number of body, gut or hip catches which also helps reduce
the possibilities of fur damage. While snares on the animal's body, like with coon or beaver, may be OK with the right snare rig, it is not an ideal location for most fur bearers. Loaded snares start to close easier, thus the animal doesn't feel the resistance which may get it to back out of the loop or try and step through... which promotes gut catches or complete misses."

~ADC~

That any help?

~ADC~

That's cool ADC....I know you save all this stuff at your fingertips.

I think you've posted it before....I ran outside and tried it, and failed miserably

LOL...I guess, I'm just a snare dummy. Washer lock and teardrop is the best I'll ever do....

Daniel, if you go to our convention in Sept. Newt Sterling will be there making snares to sell and he loads them too. I was wanting to know this as well. Great pics!

Thanks Barry. You going to the spring fling?

No,but I want too. Had something else planned already. It would be a long haul for us as well.

I'm willing to drive...but can't get outta work. Wouldn't mind cahtting with all the crew from last summer again. I enjoyed that little get together.

I would too I think everyone is involved with NCTA now. Which is fine.

Absolutely. I better run.....been hijacking this fellas thread!

That helps a ton! What are some differences in the locks? Cam lock vs sure lock. Small washer locks vs large washer locks.

Basically it comes down to personal preference and what you intend your snare to do (live catch or dispatch) and the situations where you'll be using the snares and for what critters. Rule of the thumb though, smaller locks are best for dispatch and best used with smaller cable for that. Larger locks are better for live catch and using larger cable is best for that as well.

If you can say what critters and how you want the snares to preform (dispatch or not) along with a bit of info on what type snares are legal in MN (deer stops, cable sizes, BAD's, lock styles, ect???), I think you could get lots more info. to decide what to buy/make.

~ADC~

I plan on mainly snaring yotes once the snow flies next year. I am thinking 3/32? Would also like to try a few on beavers in higher theft areas. Dispatch would be nice on the yotes,as far as beavers is it possiable without drowning?

Well you have hit the two areas where I, due to lack of critters of those types, I don't feel best qualifyed to advise you, however I'll send you a PM with what I hope will help some. Perhaps others with more coyotes and beavers under their belts than me will help by posting here.

~ADC~

excellent tutorial on loading and building snares ADC. With loading them, it is just like anything else. Use moderation. There will be a temptation to overload them. If a little is good, then a lot is great right?

Find a happy medium, so you end up with a sensitive snare, without ending up with one that is so wide you are shoulder catching the majority of your animals.

3/32 is fine for coyotes, especially for a beginning snare person. The smaller diameter cables have less visibilty to the coyote, but you better know how to kill them or you will have some chewouts. Do not use shorty snares on coyotes. Use a five footer or so, and give him enough cable to entangle and hang himself. In a short snare, all he has to do with his time is lay there and chew on your snare, and he will be gone.

Thanks K9 and TexA for the complement and advice.

Now, if someone will help with question on drowning snare sets for beaver, he'll be an old pro in no time.

~ADC~

Yea I would like to see some pics of that

Thanks for the great info guys! I will attempt a few this weekend and see how they turn out. As for the beaver drowning, short snare and some deep water?????

ADC That was excellant info on loading a snare . Those pictures and write-up should go in the archives. Good Stuff!

amtrapper, I'm no snareman. I just tried to make some snares without loading . Didn't work , wouldn't lay right etc. etc. After reading ADC's info every thing was perfect. Not saying those guys you mention don't know their stuff .All I'm saying is it worked for me .Differant strokes for ,,,,,you know the rest .

amtrapper, I use 90% maybe more non-loaded snares myself, it suits my style of trapping ok. I'd load them but with my choice of locks it's a pain.

However I wouldn't say reccomending loaded snares is bad info.

Perhaps you could explain some advantages of using snares that are not loaded vs. loaded snares. If you can convince me they are better I'll put a disclaimer into my post on how to load them. lol

As for your snare treatment is all wrong IMO. I'll never boil snares again. It promotes corrosion from the inside out of the cables and makes them conciderably stiffer.

~ADC~

amtrapper, I never said your methods were wrong. (my opinion on the snare treatment) I know many trappers who are set in their ways and "can't see why they need to do something different" if what they are doing works. Perhaps if they did a fair trial of different snares available today they would change their minds. snares have came along way in the last few years, they can custom made for nearly every situation and every critter out there.

I still would like to know why non-loaded snares are better than loaded ones. I can only think of one situation where they are better but that is a rare exception for coyote guys in Iowa.

~ADC~

Wow,, now I'm confused?? ADC ?? you say you use aprox 90% non-loaded snares. OK Where ? you didn't mention ? If for some reason you don't want to say ,like "amtrapper" doesn't want to say he likes Amberg snares, thats ok

LOL SF, I use them in ditches for coons. I also have a regulation that says I have to have deer stops on all my snares. Because of that a large varity of sizes of coons, I can not find a way to neck snare and dispatch all of them. So I live snare them with no entanglement. When I do this I want them caught by the body preferably just behind both front legs, no need to load them for that, coons plow right through. However if they were loaded they would still work fine. It's just I'm too lazy to load 400-600 snares when I'm building them. lol

The situation I mentioned about coyote snares in Iowa is unique because we can olny have an 8" wide loop but it can be as tall as we want so a tall loop 8" wide is easier to get a coyotes head in than a 8" round loop.

~ADC~

OK ADC Thanks!

You are right about the 8 inch loops. Just because a coyote "can" get his head into one does not mean he "will" put his head into it.