i would really appreciate it if people would be kind enough to share how they set for otter, trap placement, size lure ect. thanks again
jeff

I only use conibears or snares for otter. I use 330, 220, 160's.
If I am setting in the water I like a 330, on land I like a 220 and sometimes a 160, depending on the situation.
Most of my otter come from dam cross overs or small channels the beaver have cut from one pond to another, and small streams where I look for pinch points. In the streams and channels I find a pinch point and place my trap several different ways depending on water depth, if there is ice or not. If no ice and shallow enough I find a pinch point and place a H type stand or a KB stabilizer, placing the trap half under water per our laws here, make sure the sides are blocked off and your good to go.
If there is ice this is my favorite set. I find a narrow channel and chop through the ice and check the waters depth, if deep enough I set a 330 and here is how. I set the trap and bend the springs up as far as they will go then I take a 3-4ft long pole and slide it through the holes in the end of the spring. So the trap hangs down below the pole, triggers can be either facing up or down. Then I cut a hole accross the channel about 4 inches wide and 2ft long, then I set the trap in the hole and it hangs down in the water about 3 inches below the ice. The pole keeps the trap from falling into the hole. I will set 2-3 of these sets in one channel hoping for more then one critter. I have caught mink and rats like this also, another reason for more then one trap. And you might just catch more then one otter as they travel in family units. Good luck. Crutch

BowhunterJeff,
If you have dry crossovers/toilets that will allow you to stake solid you might want to try a double dirthole set. I have had my best luck making this set at toilets and crossovers then also blocking the trail with conibears. Mutiple catches common. Tried side-by-side holes, but opposing holes seem to work better for me. Otter steps all over the trap as he is turning around investigating hole to hole.

My partner and I have also had pretty good luck taking the double dirt hole set a step farther and making a triple hole set, with the holes spaced about 15-18 inches apart in pretty much of a wide triangle, with the trap bedded amongst 'em and slightly downhill, sort of like this:

Hole



hole hole
trap


The set is made on a toilet or rolling station, with the trap on the downhill or water side. Often we'll make two triple-hole sets on the same toilet, if it's big enough. We usually punch the holes with the trap stake, they don't have to be very big, and we use a different smell in each hole. Doesn't seem to matter what smells they are - we've used mink gland lure, fish oil, various predator lures, otter lure, otter glands removed from other otters we've caught, otter turds found at the toilet or brought there from a toilet elsewhere, mink glands, fox urine, and sweet coon lure.

Doesn't work every time, but we catch a lot of otters this way.

Phooey, the formatting gets messed up on the diagram I tried to make up there, and I'm not smart enough to fix it. Anyway, the top hole is about a foot from the trap, and the side holes are about a foot from the trap as well and maybe 24 to 28 inches apart, with 12 to 15 inches betwwen the top hole and each side hole.

Crutch - how do the 160s work out for you? I always felt a 220 was pushing the limits.

here are a few pics of vertical and horizontal double hole sets that I use and have success with ... these set are targeting otters ... when you can punch these in on a sheer bank it will help if not eliminate pesky coons from working them before mr. otter can show up and have a chance at getting pinched ... I've found this type set prooves to be a lil more effective if setting on settling pools at culverts or at crossovers where otters will already be slowing down a bit ... they can be fickle ... these sets if built as I prefer can take a good rise in water level ... that being one of the best times for otter movement







the biggest percentage of my otters come from blind sets ... you can't go wrong with blind sets and otters ... just read the sign and set it ... set it all

Nobody's addressed the trap size for otter with legholds. What do you folks like? I use my beefed-up 1.75 coils (with #3 springs). My partner Bill likes number 2 Montgomerys. Very seldom do we have a pull-out or single toe catch. We always cross-stake with 30-inch or 36-inch rebar, because we're usually setting on sand bars. No drowning rigs, our water fluctuates too much (5 to 8 feet on a daily basis.)

sorry im having computer troubles so i will be doing very little typing and lots of reading thanks for the input everyone and please keep the help coming

My favorite otter foothold is the #14 jump.

Have caught many in Victor and SC 1.5 coils that are modified (music wire #2 springs, baseplated, laminated) Caught several by two toes that did not have a chance of escape. Most are across-the pad catches. These footholds (along with 1.75's rigged the same way) are used on my southern live market coyotes here. I have no special otter footholds. All are rigged with SuperStakes attached with 12 to 15 inches of 1/8" cable. I rarely set sandbars here. Most sets are on vehicle-drivable pond dams (man-made) at otter crossovers or along private road crossovers at drain pipes. Good solid packed sandy soils that anchors the cable stake well.

Conibears used are 280's and a few 330's. Don't like to totally box or frame them in with guide sticks as it seems every time I've done this they crawl over the top. Find a narrow place in stream or trail and use minimal blocking. Otter will stick his head right in that 280 set up like that. Keep in mind that I'm talking about conibears set out of the water or mostly out of the water here. Conibears set totally underwater I usually block a little more and use a dive stick/log over the trap.

PossumSkinner,

Your blind set conibears are set up exactly as I do it with minimal/or no blocking (except the bottom/last picture.) When I set 'em that framed, it has cost me. But, I have caught 'em blocked that tight also on a few occasions years ago. I try not to do that now. Great photos. I got a few good set photos (otter-related)...just got to find 'em. Two 'puters in the house and some pictures on disks around here 'somers.

do to the regs around here most all our conibears have to be completley submerged, do you think if i put 330s laying flat in channels they would still make a lethal catch?
thanks again,

jeff

If I had otter traffic in these channels I would just look for a narrow place and set submerged. If the channels are too wide or deep you are going to have to find bottlenecks that funnel the otter: cross-overs or crawl-outs, maybe with toilets or narrow places in the channel, etc. If you can use the conibear laying flat it must not be too deep. If you do this, use Belisle's or a modified conibear that closes completely and it will work as good as a large foothold.

swamp - that last pic with all of the extra blocking ... that is tidal and is under water for a good part of each cycle ... in that situation all that extra works real good or I wouldn't go through the hassle of it ... that is one hot location ... you couldn't count the number of otters taken in that one spot on all of your fingers and toes and a dozen of your friends fingers and toes ... she's been good to me ... even been a couple good years when over $2000.00 worth of fur was funneled through that slough alone

Man, I love to find them kind of places. I found a small stream that connects a swamp with a larger river here. There is a large tree root (bigger around than my leg) that bows up like a hump and all the water in the two-foot wide stream pours thru that 12 inch "hole." I have lost count of the number of otters (and beaver) taken in a 280 there over the years. I know I caught 9 otters there in about 2 weeks a few years back. Also had 11 beaver laying in the woods road at the pipe about 15 yards from the "set" one year. No beaver market for me to skin 'em. I don't have to deal with fluctuating water levels here thank goodness, unless it rains a lot. Your pictures look like mine...de ja vu!!LOL

i had an older fellow show me a modified number 11s he got from mtp that hes held otter in

Modified (or factory) 11's have caught and held a bunch of otters for folks.....fur trapping and research. They lock up nicely and hold diligently. I personally would go for a little more jaw spread to increase my catch to visit ratio and not be as concerned about foot guidance at the set. Just my opinion.

the biggest i can use around here is a no. 3 coil or long spring, im leaning more towards long spring becuase it looks better built. any pros and cons of either for otter trapping?

thanks swamp wolf and others

Coilsprings bed easier with less digging, so if you're in heavy soils I'd recommend the coilsprings. As far as holding power is concerned, flip a coin. My opinion, anyhow.