This is how I make my body-grip stands without the bends in the rod. Really simple if you have a welder.




I used 5/16" hot rolled steel for the stands in the picture. Hot rolled is cheaper than cold. I've since gone to using 3/8" rebar though. You can make them as long as you want, most of mine are 24" for beaver, but some are as long as 32" or as short as 18"( for rocky bottoms). The one on the right in the picture is for shallow water, the cross brace is 5/16" X 3/4" flat steel. The support tabs are the same. The flat steel is more expensive though, it's running about $1 per foot, so you may want to use other options for your tabs and cross members.

330 dimensions:
12" wide (inside to inside)
24" tall (length optional depending on your conditions)
Support tabs are 2" down from the top, 1 1/2" long
First cross member is 8" down from the top.

Be sure to grind/round off the sharp edges on the tops of the stand and the ends of the tabs. They will cut up a beaver or any animal if the animnal happens to jump or roll on top of the stand after being whacked.

You can make them for any bodygrip trap you want, 330's, 220's, 160's, even 110's. You just have to custom fit them to your size and brand of traps. I made some for 1216's too, with some add-ons to help stabilize the trap.

nice

I build the traditional "H" type ... have seen similar designs like yours and always think how much quicker and easier it has to be ... might have to give it a try some day

Goldy,
I use several that are similar to that, They work great. I recently started grinding out the rivets on my 330's and putting a little tab on the end of my stands to go through the rivet holes. Then I weld a washer on the inside of the trap.

I stole the idea from a famous Washington trapper, (Thx Vinke),, The beauty of these is they always stay with the trap. This setup seems to work better with duke 330's than the Belisles. I am dropping some 750's on rebar in the A.M. Expecting the usual results!

Thanks Goldy. I'll be makin' a few of them tomorrow.

Nice work

I just realized that is a pic of a 1216 I modified, not a 330, works really well with that trap also. Adam

Adam, can they pull your settup away from the set area?

No, most of the time they are still setting right where I placed the stand. That is one drawback. With a 2 piece setup like yours a beaver may get clear of a good spot and not spook other beaver that happen upon it.

how come the picture was deleted?

Whoops that was my fault, I deleted the wrong picure on photobucket. ........ Got it fixed.

I made about 3 or 4 dozen with Goldy's instructions and they were simple to make, and seem simple to use, will find out in the next few weeks.

goldy, with your setup, do you have room to put your trigger on the bottom?

Yep, plenty of room. I always put my triggers on the bottom.

Goldy,

I bought 340' of 5/16 today and will make up a bunch this week. I have a couple quick questions.

Do you fasten the stand to the trap at all?

If not, do you ever lose any?

Does the beaver pull free once caught, or is he stuck right there?


thanks!

I don't fasten them. I've never lost one either. They always pull the trap off the stand. The stand is either just sitting there or it's just tipped over after a catch. I don't even remember having to search for one for long.

Let me clarify. I've never lost one after a beaver catch. I've set them on the bank and walked away a few times.

i made up a bunch of stands that i copied sortof 2 peg legs welded to the wide side of 4" of 1x1/4 flat bar and each end having a wire finger top and bottom for the jaws to lock into. works pretty good but i still like my rectangle litter buckets with two notches for the springs. the buckets catch so good for me it tends to launch the 220 at the coon getting it around the ribs and the neck. i normally find the coon with his head still in the bucket.

Them look good goldy. I will have to make some this summer thanks for sharing!

Goldy,

I made one up, loved it, then made a jig on my welding table. In exactly 2 hours I made the first one, the jig then cut parts, deburred, and welded up 46 24" stands and 6 48" stands.

My only question is you use the flat bar for the actual platform that holds the coni. Have you just used some of the 5/16" rod? I made one up with the rod and one with 1/4" x 1" bolts and they both work, but the trap can rock very slightly. Do they also rock with the flatbar?

I didn't weld the 2" pieces in any but the first two.

Thanks for the tip on these stands, they are very fast to build!

Not bad goldy!

I thought everything you made was out of rebar? That's a good design, real similar to mine.

Obrien, Run the wire that you use to tie off the trap with, through the stabilizer before you tie off your trap. That way you will never loose one.

Thought about that too Dave.

I also just got done rigging up 60 legholds with nail swivels and heavier chain. Man, I have never been this ready before!

tomorrow night I rig the cables and finish the stands and lookout beaver! lol

Michael, it all depends on what brand your 330's are. Some brands fit looser than others. Belisle's fit snug, but Dukes and Bridgers fit loosely, others are in between. I use sticks at the set to make them as solid as possible, at least so the trap leans solidly towards your castor mound so when the beaver hits the trap it doesn't move away from the beaver. Make sense?
Anything will work for the platform (support tabs), I just happened to use the flat steel. Brownie77 used some bolts too I think.

LOL. I use 3/8 rebar for the MB1216 stands.

Thank you sir, makes perfect sense. I wanted to ask before I have all 52 welded up-

Will finish them tonight then spray them with a chemical my company makes for degreasing steel.

Rasbo,

Not to answer for Goldy, but no, that is not how his work, but they could be easily extended to do so.

He is using these for shallow water sets, such as a castor mound aproach.

ttt

Yes I did, but just cuz i am lazy and got sick of cutting 1 1/2" pieces, but the bolts worked real well.

Cutting the pieces is easy Brownie. I taped the rods together in a bundle of 34 and cut them all at once! But de-buring is another matter. the little pieces are too kard to hang onto to run over the grinder and clamping them to the table or in a vise is going to take this man too long, picking up bolts today!

The mother in law is coming today so what better time to work in the garage??? lol

Here you go rasbo:

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM.........Looks like a Belisle!!!!

You can use 3/8" rebar, but if you're going to use Belisle's you have to make them a little wider than 12" or they won't quite fit.

1/4 0r 5/16 smooth rod for a duke 220?

looks good , thanks for sharing

Goldy,
What is that Belisle treated with? Dip, dye, paint?
Clear your PMs and send me one.

Thanks

KBL Quick Dye on both the trap and stand.