Re: 120's for raccoons`
[Re: grumpy]
#318193
08/31/07 02:52 PM
08/31/07 02:52 PM
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ADC
Unregistered
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ADC
Unregistered
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several getting them out of the trap was worse than working with a chinese puzzle. all were suitcased behind the ears with a leg sometimes through it also. LOL I'll bet it is bad, They get wedged in 220's pretty bad after rigor sets in I'll bet them 120's would be a real pain. ~ADC~
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Re: 120's for raccoons`
[Re: Mike367]
#318435
08/31/07 06:52 PM
08/31/07 06:52 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,681 odessa Mo.
RayA
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,681
odessa Mo.
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Dugout i set my trigger wires bent back on about a 45 degree angle.keeps them up high out the way and makes it look like he's just tryin to fit thru a piece a hog wire. top of his head usually raises up just right for the jaws to fit just behind the ears. found several with there heads still in the box thats quick.
Hey Mike good to see ya.
I dont suffer from Insanity i enjoy every minute of it.
Citified Mo Trappers Ed Instructor
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Re: 120's for raccoons`
[Re: RayA]
#318519
08/31/07 08:07 PM
08/31/07 08:07 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 362 Metro-Detroit, Michigan
Beaverhunter2
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 362
Metro-Detroit, Michigan
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OK, I'll jump in on this one. I've made a bunch of 5x5s and used them for marten, mink, and raccoons. They're deadly on all three. For 'coons, the big thing is avoiding triggering with the paw. My traps have a striker bar on them and they will hold a 'coon by the paw but there's too much room "under the jaws".
To avoid paw catches, I put the trigger on top on the inside jaw and bend it so it's almost horizontal. I also have holes in the tops of my boxes and wire the bait to the top. Occasionally I'll have him caught by a paw and the head, but he goes down quick. My springs are made of 3/16" music wire and the striker breaks the spine about half the time on coons (always on mink and marten). Deep boxes, mail boxes, or buckets are a big help to reduce reaching.
As far as 160s vs 220s. I think 160s kill 'coons quicker than 220s. Like RayA, most of my 160-caught 'coons just fall down. I think 220s catch them a bit further back and they don't get stunned like they do when the 160 (or 5x5) raps them in the base of the skull. That being said, I got a lot of avoidance trying 160s in trail sets- even when they were lifted up off the ground. Now I just use buckets or boxes right next to the trails. They rarely seem to get past the bucket. ;-)
I bait my conibear sets with marshmallows and sweet baits/lures to avoid non-targets. I save the muskrat meat or fish for the dirtholes and pockets with footholds. So far- so good. 34 seasons with no dogs caught.
John
Life Member- National Trappers Association and Michigan Trappers and Predator Callers Association
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Re: 120's for raccoons`
[Re: kickin buck]
#321948
09/03/07 10:46 PM
09/03/07 10:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 225 Missouri Ozarks
TOTF
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 225
Missouri Ozarks
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For those of you who have experience with using both 5x5s and 120s, how much difference does the extra .5 in. in the 5x5s? From what I've heard, the 5x5s can be pretty expensive (I don't know the exact prices), so would the financial benefits of the 120s outweigh the size and strength benefits of the 5x5s?
Gone trappin'
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Re: 120's for raccoons`
[Re: Mike367]
#322321
09/04/07 11:18 AM
09/04/07 11:18 AM
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dcampbell
Unregistered
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dcampbell
Unregistered
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on the 160's, how far in the box does the trap need to be to produce the behind the ears catch yall are talking about.
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Re: 120's for raccoons`
[Re: Barkstone]
#322706
09/04/07 05:49 PM
09/04/07 05:49 PM
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charles
Unregistered
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charles
Unregistered
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I use round bucketes, with the lids on the buckets. I cut a square hole in the bucket lid. Buckets with lids seems to out catch buckets w/o lids. This is even so with the square buckets. With those I like to use the lid too. Forces the coon to enter the bucket rather than reach under or around the trap. Almost always find the coon dead, half way through the lid, with one front leg inside the lid.
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