i like skunks, and i dont mind possums, and i really like bucket sets, if i just knew were to find square buckets i would probably love bucket sets, wish 220's fit in mail boxes like those 5x5's do lol

Wcrose 19
Find someone that has cats. Most kitty litter comes in square buckets now that fit 220's to a T. I have pry half dozen already cut for the springs you could have but shipping them pry wouldn't justify the cost.

several seasons ago, i made up a half dozen 120 boxes about 20" deep. elevated them so the coon would have easier access. shortened the trigger wires a great deal. baited with fish and fish oil. they worked fine. BUT, getting them out of the trap was worse than working with a chinese puzzle. all were suitcased behind the ears with a leg sometimes through it also.

caught a skunk in one, one morning. never dropped a tinkle of "juice"!! deader than a hammer the instant the trap hit him.

the old northwoods 120's do have a five inch spread on them. as do some of the newer brands made for missouri regs. doesn't look like we'll get the 160's or bigger on ground anytime in the near future. so we'll just have to live with using what we can to get by. but, yes they do work.

the grump.

Do you think a pocket popper screwed to a tree 6 inches off the ground with a 120 in it would catch coon?

LOL I'll bet it is bad, They get wedged in 220's pretty bad after rigor sets in I'll bet them 120's would be a real pain.

~ADC~

Ray;
How do you place the trigger wires to avoid a front leg catch?

I will tell you that a 120 will kill a coon right dead in its tracks when properly placed in a "box". As far as trails go 220s are the better choice. I dont have any good photos but take my word after smacked with a 120 in a box they flop over dead!!!!!! Mike

Dugout
i set my trigger wires bent back on about a 45 degree angle.keeps them up high out the way and makes it look like he's just tryin to fit thru a piece a hog wire. top of his head usually raises up just right for the jaws to fit just behind the ears. found several with there heads still in the box thats quick.

Hey Mike good to see ya.

OK, I'll jump in on this one. I've made a bunch of 5x5s and used them for marten, mink, and raccoons. They're deadly on all three. For 'coons, the big thing is avoiding triggering with the paw. My traps have a striker bar on them and they will hold a 'coon by the paw but there's too much room "under the jaws".

To avoid paw catches, I put the trigger on top on the inside jaw and bend it so it's almost horizontal. I also have holes in the tops of my boxes and wire the bait to the top. Occasionally I'll have him caught by a paw and the head, but he goes down quick. My springs are made of 3/16" music wire and the striker breaks the spine about half the time on coons (always on mink and marten). Deep boxes, mail boxes, or buckets are a big help to reduce reaching.

As far as 160s vs 220s. I think 160s kill 'coons quicker than 220s. Like RayA, most of my 160-caught 'coons just fall down. I think 220s catch them a bit further back and they don't get stunned like they do when the 160 (or 5x5) raps them in the base of the skull. That being said, I got a lot of avoidance trying 160s in trail sets- even when they were lifted up off the ground. Now I just use buckets or boxes right next to the trails. They rarely seem to get past the bucket. ;-)

I bait my conibear sets with marshmallows and sweet baits/lures to avoid non-targets. I save the muskrat meat or fish for the dirtholes and pockets with footholds. So far- so good. 34 seasons with no dogs caught.

John

Thanks, Now I understand. I just couldn't envision what y'all were doing.

I think If you funnel properly you can get a coon to try to go through A 5inch trap in trail sets. I would fure sure get the trap up off the ground a good 4 inches with a stabilizer.

I take that back. I know for sure you could catch them in trail sets. If someone sends me a free one to try this fall I will use it and send you the pictures of the dead coon.

For those of you who have experience with using both 5x5s and 120s, how much difference does the extra .5 in. in the 5x5s? From what I've heard, the 5x5s can be pretty expensive (I don't know the exact prices), so would the financial benefits of the 120s outweigh the size and strength benefits of the 5x5s?

If properly placed in the correctly built box the 120 is all you need. For some reason when the 120 wacks them right behind the ears its lights out. Mike

on the 160's, how far in the box does the trap need to be to produce the behind the ears catch yall are talking about.

Hey D, Its not the distance back in the box, its the actual jaw spread size of the trap. Mike

I have used them in Ropac buckets with great success, I cut a hole in the lid fasten it on the bucket then simply bend the trigger perendicular with the trap pointed in.

Note... I also use Belisle 120's I think they would hold an Aircraft Carrier, but have used just regular 120's and they work just as good as long as you can get them behind the ear.

I do not believe that there is a coon so big that they cannot get their head in one if done correctly. But I am sure someone will regale us all with an "I caught this one one time story...."

The last time I posted about catching coons in a 120, the man wanted to see a picture of my coons I caught. So I quit posting on most 120 threads. It was a kinda prove to me what you are talking about thingy.

Don,

You should have sold him a 120 belilse and had him stick his hand in it.....

Proof!

I use round bucketes, with the lids on the buckets. I cut a square hole in the bucket lid. Buckets with lids seems to out catch buckets w/o lids. This is even so with the square buckets. With those I like to use the lid too. Forces the coon to enter the bucket rather than reach under or around the trap. Almost always find the coon dead, half way through the lid, with one front leg inside the lid.