Thanks ken, I'll check it and ask Compeaus about it next time I'm in town.

Takotna, was it one of the new models?

They are phasing out the 440 LTs???? This is one of the greatest machines every built. However, they can take a step up if they PUT A SUSPENSION on one of them. I'll sell mine in a heartbeat if they do. Gets 20 mpg (hauling a Otter L sled full), goes anywhere, never gets stuck, and takes a beating. But there is NO suspension....your spine is the suspension, so if they updated that.....WOW, the worlds best machine!

The new LT is built on the same chasis as the Tundra and freestyles. It might be a good machine. I think the 440lt is officially dead, it is no longer listed on Skidoo's website. An interesting note is that it is called a Tundra LT 550F and the specs say the engine is a 500F and the actual displacement is 436cc. They are pretty free with their numbers.

hahaha, I love that. I can see a 599cc being a 600, but when they start calling them 550s give or take 100. hahaha I sure love the LT, but it kills me to ride it sometimes. I have noticed that sans windshield SUCKS even more. I figured I didn't go fast enough to make it matter.....i was wrong.

Just heard on the street here a guy just blew up his brand new Tundra. Hadn't figured out what went on yet, just burned up. I'll find out more.

Yup bearbait, one of the new spaceships, he burned it up last year because of the rubber and they rebuilt it, same thing again this year but he caught it.

Trooper here in St. Marys bought a new tundra this year.
I think he has less than 200 mile on it and the carb boot between the carb and cyl gave out. A hole in the bottom of it the size of a nickel. Crazy. I thought they fixed that. He did not blow a pistion but the fuel ratio was bad enought it quit running. We think.
Alaska Mining and diving wanted the whole machine to warrenty. He was not happy. I think he is just buying the boot on his own.

Discuss the so called Tundra they came out that looks like a snocross machine... Just from looks i would say it doesnt work in a wilderness or offroad trapline.

RdFx

The Jack Pine Savage mentioned Jim Rognerud has been putting a new Tundra to the test on his Under Ice Beaver line. I hear good reports even though the thing looks kinda frail it has been taking a beating fairly well.

Jim takes his Beaver trapping kinda serious ! I doubt he would put up with the sled if it did not perform well in the woods.

Martentrapper responding to otterman about the 550 RMK

Otterman.........I sold the 05 RMK to the trapping pard. He needed a better machine real bad. It was decent on gas but finicky with temp changes. You had to adjust the carb needle depth if the temp changed more than 30 degrees. It was a good machine tho and served me well. I think the 550 engine is a very good compromise engine for our conditions and terrain.
I already had an 02 RMK and bought an 03 RMk with the money I got from the sale of the 05. They are just slightly better on gas, but supposedly more prone to burning pistons. I suspect that proper adjustment of the carb needle will prevent piston problems. I am quite happy with the 02 and 03 machines, but occaisionally miss the electric reverse the 05 had. The 07 RMKs are a whole new machine supposedly.
The RMks have a slightly narrower ski stance, which makes them better for sidehilling and for going thru brush, at least I think so.

Posted by Martentrapper
Otterman, I'll make ya a deal! Deal or No Deal? Haha.
You post a pic of your ABS gun mount and I'll post a pic of my tricked out RMK.
mt
response otterman
MT DEAL!! However too bad we both cant collect a few 100K while we are at it





I dont have the picture showing how I use the piece cut out for the scope as big washer material under the hood where it bolts up, keeps the things from tearing thru. Also dont glue the carpet in as then you can yank it out and dry it up if it gets wet and turns to ice. If it ever warms up I will most likley take a pice out of the bottom for the trigger guard too but it isnt all that necessary just gets the gun a little further in. Put a pice of string or leather shoe lace on the bungee end holding the gun in by the trigger guard, pull the string and the bugee unhooks and you are ready to draw, cycle action and fire. You can cap the end although a red salmon net cork cut across the center line fits perfect just plug the line hole with another piece of cork I am sure I dont have to tell you avoid covering vent holes. is a really simple thing and makes acess to a gun very fast. I am not sure how it would hold up banging a tree at -30 so it may bust on your colder temps but I have rolled my machine below 0 and it is still intact so is the gun

response martentrapper Here we go Todd. This is the 02 RMK I'm currently using. There are slight differences in the newer models, but what I've done to this can be done to newer mods.
I use a cordura gun scabbard for carrying the gun. Seems to work well, but i think regular carrying of a gun on a snogo will knock the scope zero off. I usually have 2 scabbards on the cowl, generally carrying a rifle and a shotgun. I haven't had any problem with overheating due to vent blockage by the scabbard.
I add a standard polaris rack, but make sure it sits back enough to give you space between the rack and the seat. You end up with 2 spaces to carry stuff in. You do have to be careful with not carrying too much weight in the rack. They say it can buckle the tunnel.
Here's the first pic:


I also add the tallest windshield available for the model, and then add to that. I like having a place to hunker behind if the wind gets bad. I don't wear a helmet. On the dash, ahead of the handle bars, you can see a RAM mount base for my GPS. Also add a cig plug in for GPS power. Mine is mounted next to the key on this model. Be sure and buy the cig plug kit from the Polaris dealer. It has all the right stuff to make it work.
Here's a second pic:


The last thing I do is put track screws into the lugs. The 1.25 lug is too big for studs, so track screws will give you the ice traction.
I think that's about everything. I usually run with gauntlets on the handlebar also. Love the increased wind protection they give your hands.
mt
Oh yea, add a hitch. I prefer the J hook type of hitch. Buy the hitch kit from the dealer, or have him put it on.

response otterman
MT how do you have that extension on your windshield attached it almsot looks as if it is some type of clip or something but I like the idea of attaching high vs low and not having a double windshield.

response Martentrapper

Posted by Kusko
Hey MT, you need to look into studding your RMK with regular studs. All of my buddies with 1.25" tracks have their machines studded.

posted by HUPUREST
Studding a track that tall is rather risky, unless done 100% correct and a bit pricier. A stud that tall, has a large tendency to bending or ripping out of the track, due to the leverage it produces, when it gets a "hold" in a log, or ice

In order to stud it correctly, one would need to have 4 studs per row, and I would not go higher than a 1.375". the best studs are made by Fast trac, and are called top gun, they have the largest diameter head and are the BEST quality you can buy, and they back it up.

the backers you need to use are also made by the same company and are plastic angled backers. They fit up tight to the track lug, so the stud can not generate the leverage to rip out, as other flat or round backers allow. Also being out of plastic, they will not "cut" into the track as metal ones do, causing a rip out.

I was partners in a snowmachine race shop In NY, and these are the studs I, we used to grass drag, race and ride with.
I had 240 (5 per row)in a MXZ X 800, 3000 miles and I bent one stud, never lost any carbides or had track wear or a tear out. Other brands are FAR inferior to these, and it is all we would install on customers machines. One would also need tunnel protectors, as they will shred apart a tunnel and bulk head in no time

here is a link http://www.fasttractraction.com/topguncarbide2.htm

posted by martentrapper
No studs for me on a 1.25 lug. The track screws are alot easier to install.
Forgot about the tunnel protectors. Got to have those also, if you want studs or screws

Posted by HUPUREST
see absolutely no reason to stud here, unless you are racing rivers, or towing big loads on the ice. the track screws are perfect for most uses for that added extra traction, cheaper, and WAY easier to install..
the main reason I ran studs on the non race sleds was stopping, it halves the distance, especially at speeds above 80mph, and on hard pack it kicks up more for the heat exchangers. Most trails, unless frozen hard, the studs don't help much anyways, and they also rob power both low and rob the crap out of the top end, on my 800 it took off 11mph, lots of extra rotating mass, I would recommend a gear change to go along with it, down 1 to 1.5 teeth would be optimal. oh, and don't forget the new longer more agressive carbide runners you will need to steer it. the downside is the amount of ice chunks and rocks they pick up and throw, it is no fun riding behind a studded machine.
In ny , i broke a friends middle and index knuckles with a baseball size rock that it kicked up.
The only problem with those screws is putting them into a 1.5" inch or deeper lug. the track is thinner on the ends, so that it "sweeps" the snow away, gaining extra resistance for better traction. the ice screws do not hold up 1/4 the time they would in a shorter lug track, and very often pull out and tear apart the paddles.
if one wants to do it the cheapest way, get some 1/4" hex head machine screws with 3/4" long shanks. that is how I used to do dirt bike and old wheeler tires, like $4.
I also, use round head bolts that fit through the holes in the running board for extra traction, instead of buying those $80 aluminum ones. and for the very aggressive rider get em 1" and sharpen em with a grinder.