Hey Kusko clean out the in box need to ask you a question

Kusko is logging for a few more days at least

Chitina dip netting is coming up and I just bought an 18 foot Ouachita flat bottom with a 20 inch transom and a 25 horse Go Devil long tail. I'm unsure if this set up is appropriate for dip netting out of at Chitina, what do you guys think?

I might have to cut a part of the transom down to 16 inches for the Go Devil to work right. If this set up is border line as is, would altering the transom take it out of the question?

Sorry bud i have no idea. I am still running a 1970 something 35 johnson short shaft on my 14 footer. I was talking to my brother about dipnetting. May try take a break this summer and go check it out. Should be fun.

It's not my idea of fun, but it's a darn tasty fish! I haven't done it from a boat though, that might be more fun.

Right on, i have no idea about dipnetting fish. Eigher way it should be interesting. See if the Feds close our king season again. They changed out net size again. So we have to get new nets for another 48 hour opening. If anything i'll jus catch alot of burbot next fall.

That's pretty fast water over there. I would think you'd need one guy on the engine at all times while another guy dipped. Maybe there are calm spots or eddies where it would be OK though. I wouldn't cut the transom until you try it though.

I watched the "what you need/how to" vids on the fish and game sight, they HIGHLY suggested one person on the wheel at all times. I figure if I give this a shot I'll have to bring someone comfortable in a boat.

And a couple of oars too.

No need for oars in a boat!

Famous last words.

It came with a nice push pole, but real oars are on the list.

I have been down there in a boat, and it is not a river you want to screw up on, especially if you head down into the canyon. We tried dipping out of a boat below the bridge but above the canyon, but it was a huge pain due to how fast the water is running. Not like the Kenai where it moves much slower. Oars with oar locks at a minimum, or a second kicker if you have one and can put it on is a good idea. If you are fine running in the canyon, I would suggest just heading down there and tying up to one of the spots off the cliffs and dipping from land in the eddies. Much easier and more successful.

-TJ

Thanks for the input guys. When I get the system put together and on water I'll share pics and maybe that will give you guys with experience on that river a better idea of my equipment.

http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/rvs/3854734900.html

Elan for parts White!

Temple, get the permit for above the bridge and you should be okay. I would not take it below the bridge.

otterman, i cleaned out my pm's

I started dip netting @ Chitina in the '80s & much prefer to do it out of a boat. The current is fast, particularly at high water, but there's no whitewater or big rocks. Its not too hard to oar or pole to shore if your motor quits. I'd think your boat would work fine & there are plenty of good drifts between the bridge & the canyon.

Thanks you guys! Be safe out there!

I had sent an email to Stu at Stu's Go-Devil about the 20 inch transom, this is what he had to say.

"The higher transom raises the angle of the cavitation plate, over the prop, enough that it will try to push the prop out of the water. To run the motor in this configuration you will have to hold up on the tiller handle. The faster you go the harder it is to keep the prop from popping out of the water. In addition, the higher angle of the drive causes a small decrease in thrust. A trim tab can be bolted or welded to the rear of the cavitation plate and bent up enough to keep the prop in the water, but I found this solution made the prop pop out quite easily and still decreased thrust. Any hook or roughness in the bottom of the boat, near the transom made it even more difficult to hold the prop in the water. My preferred solution is to cut down the transom to 16 inches. I find the center of the transom, from side to side, measure 9 inches out on each side of center then mark a 45 degree angle up to the top of the transom. Using a sawsall I cut out this piece of the transom and cover the exposed surface with new aluminum. On some boats the knee brace from the transom to the floor will also require modification. The best guy in town, that I have found, to do this modification is Karolds welding off Davis Road. If you have some experience working sheet metal and/or welding aluminum you can do it yourself, because it certainly isn't rocket science. Please don't try to run it on a 20 inch transom without, at least, adding the trim tab. It will wear you out trying to keep the prop in the water. That boat/motor combination is an excellent choice and while it won't be fast you will be amazed with the fuel economy and reliability."

The weekend is here so I'll have to wait until Monday to see how much the modification to the transom would cost since I'm not set up to weld aluminum. I do have a little Hobart now, so I'll try putting a trim tab on the cavitation plate and see how it performs like that this weekend.

Finally graduated today! I got an Industrial Electrical Technician Certificate. I've got a job lined up at Icicle in Petersburg. can't wait to get home

Congrats!