Which are the most effective kill traps out there for tree squirrels?

Here are the commonly used kill traps that I can think of...

WCS tube trap
Koro--which size do you like?
connibears--what size and set up do you like?
Kania 2000

Any others that I have missed? What are the advantages and disadvantages of these various traps?

I see it coming... Steve's working on a new squirrel trap. This is pure speculation - do not spread the rumor. Unless, of course, Steve confirms this. ;-) However, to answer your question Steve, I have used the small Koros with reasonable success but generally use controllers and live traps.

Busted! Actually I am not really working on it, but I have given it some thought. Definitely would be a market for it.

HA! I can see it now... work benches filled with empty pizza boxes, Monster Energy drinks and Gophinator/soup can prototypes as you work feverishly through the night.

The tube trap is a squirrel killing machine and my favorite.

Second is a Victor 120 in a wooden box, mink box style.

These days I only set cages for squirrel when I just plain can't use one of the others.

Edit: I should add that this for gray squirrels. Neither work well for reds.

January 2014 Nwcoa convention in New Orleans I will be releasing the newest kill style squirrel / rat trap... "Rat Cracker"

I'll be interested to see it Bud.

I'd really like to see a multi-wack trap for squirrels.

SGS, you think the tube is part of the attraction to the squirrel? You think they actually like exploring that tube?

Bud, I look forward to it also. I should be there!

I don't know what the attraction is but they are much quicker to hit the tubes than the boxes. Not that the boxes don't work fine.

Tube trap is a mink trap came out in the 80s wcs sells a over priced version of that trap 10 bucks cheaper at F&T if your looking for tubs . Victor 55 size conibear would be the best kill trap for squirrels hands down . BMI makes a very nice 55 size conibear as well but has two springs like the 120 has I really don't use to many kill traps anymore after I started using the aes type mulity catch cage traps . I guess Scott quit making traps now days so we orderd 200' of that heavy gauge wire he used and we just build are own and made few changes that were mods we did with Scott's traps A.K.A tamks . Them traps just flat out get it done faster then the kill trap

The squirrels are not attracted to the tube you put one end up tight to the hole in the house and force them in the tube there's no bait used .

I agree with Pesky that in my experience we do much better with cages too. I also happen to know that there are a lot of guys out there that do more squirrels than we do, ( probably a couple of thousand ) using kill traps almost exclusively. I guess that's just one more thing that makes this business so interesting.

Why do they hold it in that He ll hole????????

I seem to have better luck as well using boxes, while friends of mine use nothing but tubes. I still like a 110 conibear layed flat in attics. or mounted over entry hole with a 50.

We havent had to use any kill traps for squirrels for a number of years. We do structural squirrel work like bat work in a sense. We either excluded depending the time of year or nose cone colony trap and remove them all in a couple of trips.

The sky is the limit with lethal means traps. It is just a matter of determining their travel/access/feed areas and using a kill trap of your choice to force the animal thru or invite entry into one with baited eye appeal.

we never use kill traps for squirrels here either. i havent seen a squirrel that couldnt be caught in a cage trap, either bait or forced. i would think a regular 110 conibear or similar size trap would work well.

fun for all

While Rick is right that we can't "technically" use kill traps for greys or fliers here my experience has led to me to "civil disobediance". Rick, the proscription against is purely regulatory and is not codified into law so if push comes to shove I'll take my lumps.
My reasoning is this, a properly placed 110 over the entry point is going to target the specific troublemaker rather than shotgunning the entire squirrel population with cages. It also allows the problem to be solved immediately rather than waiting for the squirrel to A)get hungry and B)lose it's fear of the unknown.

warrior, I have spent a reasonable amount of time proving that "catching every squirrel in the neighborhood" is an urban myth. ( At least in our area ) Our grey and red squirrels seem to be very territorial.

I had a job in the ghetto area of Milwaukee. This house was surrounded by black walnut trees and there were squirrels everywhere. The upstairs of the house was overrun with greys. I set six cages in and on this squirrel paradise. I caught two dozen squirrels in a very short time and then nothing for three days.

The third day I pulled the cages. There were probably at least a dozen squirrels running around the house but they would not set foot on the house. I have noticed this behavior time and time again. While this was the most greys I have ever caught in a single family home, if I would have set my cages on the ground I probably could have caught a hundred.

A more normal squirrel job for us is two or three cages on the roof next to the hole ( or maybe one over the hole also ) and an average catch of four. We then close the hole and are done. ( Of course, since a lot of people just love their wood homes, many of them will be calling back next year with a new hole and we can start all over again )

You beat me to it Rick. My observation as well.That is one big reason why we dont use lethal means traps unless structuraly set where not in easy view.

Some places you may get away with that routine but not many areas that I service that I would do that. Too many nosey rosies that may find that offensive and put it on the evening news.

Thanks for all the responses guys. I did a little experiment this morning, I set up a tube trap and a Koro on top of a fence 20 yards from my office window, and baited them with peanuts in the traps and a few teasers 2 or 3 feet out from the traps. Didn't set the traps, just wanted to see how the squirrels responded to the two different types of traps.

The first guy that came along did stop about 3 feet short of the tube trap and looked at it for awhile then headed the other direction. First guy that came to the Koro didn't seem to have any fear of it and took the peanuts right away. Once they got a taste of the peanuts, they lost all fear of the tube trap pretty fast, and in short order they cleaned it out. And then they went completely through the empty tube trap and the Koro about 10 times looking for more.

So far looks like they don't have any problem entering either trap. I did notice that jays and mockingbirds both were interested in the peanuts in the koro, so I could easily see the koro catching birds if left uncovered, where no birds showed any interest in going into the tube trap.

So it was kind of fun to sit and watch the animals actually react to the sets.

Another good reson not to use baited traps - bycatch! (Birds)

Good thought Dave. I guess I never thought about birds in a killer trap. Since we use all cages, we just let them go.

I've had good success with the gophinators for ground squirrels.
I also use the smaller comstocks.

Baxter, what species of ground squirrel are you catching?

California ground squirrel. I used them in my backyard. Ironically I caught a gopher snake with your traps

Hey Baxter, I've caught the same species in our gopher traps, but the traps are probably a little undersize for that big a squirrel.

Anyway, thanks for all the responses guys. Here's the new squirrel trap design I came up with....

Steve, that's really very timely. I happen to have a couple of those some plant holders collecting dust above the garage. Won't my customers be thrilled when I put them to use like that?

Put them right out on the front lawn, Paul!

Oh yeah, right along with a nice new sign that says "Steve Albano's New Squirrel Trap"!

OUCH. I bet it got a little light headed, you think?

Just had a call to remove a squirrel from a bird feeder pole just like that. Lady was a real nut case but it paid well

real nut case eh

I hate to be a wet blanket and perhaps in reading the laws wrong but there's a part in the "Method of Take" section that makes me think using these lethal traps here in CA is illegal. Correct me if I'm wrong...

(a) Application. A person who is a property owner or tenant may apply to the department for a permit to take elk, bear, beaver, wild pigs, deer, wild turkeys, or gray squirrels that are damaging or destroying, or immediately threatening to damage or destroy, land or property.
(b) Permit Period. Permits issued pursuant to this section shall be valid for a period not to exceed one year, except that permits for elk, bear, wild turkey, or deer shall not be valid for more than 60 days. Permits may be renewed if damage or threatened damage to land or property continues to exist.
(c) Form and Conditions of Permit. Applications shall be made on form entitled "PERMIT TO KILL DEER, BEAR, ELK, WILD PIG, GRAY SQUIRREL, BEAVER, WILD TURKEY, OR MOUNTAIN LION CAUSING CROP OR PROPERTY DAMAGE" (FG WPB 543 (new 5/05)). The department may add terms and conditions to the permit necessary to protect wildlife and ensure public safety. To be valid, the permit shall contain a statement signed by the applicant that he/she has read, understands, and agrees to be bound by all the terms of the permit.
(d) Methods of Take.
(1) Animals taken pursuant to a permit may be taken in any legal manner except as
herein provided and in accordance with the provisions of Section 465.5 of these regulations. Permits to take deer shall include conditions that comply with Fish and Game Code section 4181.5. No iron-jawed or any type of metal-jawed traps may be used to take squirrels or bears. No poison may be used. The department may specify the caliber and type of firearm and ammunition, archery equipment or crossbow to be used based upon safety considerations. The department may require that a permittee take animals alive by the use of live traps.
(2) The permittee and/or agent shall ensure that all animals are killed in a humane manner instantly and prevent any injured animal from escaping.
(e) Government Employees and Designated Agents.
An employee of a federal, State, or local government agency or local district with responsibilities including but not limited to animal control, animal damage control, irrigation, flood, or natural resource reclamation, while acting in his/her official

steve you forgot one thing that goes with that photo.

Livetrap, I think by now we just assume that everything in California is illegal until proven otherwise.

Well good thing none of this occurred in ca then

I use a #110 conibear and three nails or screws, first take two nails or screws and nail them about two inches apart horizontally on the tree then put the other nail any where you want sorta as a stake to hold the 110 so it doesnt fall then put the conibear on the two nails and bait it on the whiskers it works great.

Snares

Newt has some tiny mink snares that would work really great on greys.

Just to clarify, WCS only sells the TUBE Trap which is Made in the USA, by the the inventor Mr. Bob Best of Knox, PA.. I've seen pictures of Charlie Dobbins testing the original traps, made by Bob in the early 80's on mink. Each of the current TUBE Traps is stamped with our logo & the R.C. Best Trap Co. on the skin of the TUBE. Other suppliers are selling an offshore model, calling it the TUNNEL trap. If you're interested in either of these traps I'd recommend you get one of each and decide for yourself. As with most things in life, you get what you pay for !

Bud, I'd love to see your trap too ?

U can see it in New Orleans

What's that, Mousie, a disclaimer that the trap only works on 50% of all squirrels?

Steve, since the trap is made in California, I think what mousie may be getting at is the special setting instructions for blonds.