I know there is a focus on tubes for non-spray skunk trapping but a trap such as a tube trap is a trap with pretty much a singular monolithic usage limited in scope, often used with baits. In the past five years with many dozens of catches at the very least, I have had no problems with skunks spraying whatsoever, using double door cage traps with solid nose cones. I have even stacked skunks caught in double door cages with solid nose cone covers without issue. The advantage of this set up is that it has multiple uses. A double door cage trap with the solid nose cone can also be used for woodchucks, opossum, squirrels, armadillos, raccoons etc. When I set for chucks and catch a skunk the cover is in place so there is no spraying.

Jim I see your point and have looked at yours and others traps that can be covered and used for other animals also. Or just wrapping an exiting trap and using it. And I understand the concept of positive sets. But how do you positive set for grubbing skunks in the middle of the yard? If you can find the trail I can see it, but if it is touring the neighborhood and the customer see's it in there yard and calls. Would not bait be the only solution?
Kurt Temple

I prefer the old Plasti-Traps (baited) for skunks and many other critters. I only have four of them, so they often have to be augmented with wire cage traps. They are usually set using drift fences to guide the critters into the traps. They can also be used to trap raccoons, opossums and cats on rooftops with no damage to the roof.

Hey Ron, I really like what you did to that cage. I might have to try something like that myself.

So the hole allows them to see through the trap, and would help in summer with cooling. With an end cap I could turn it into a chamber, I'm not from a relocation state. Could work out, thanks for the idea.

Kurt Temple

Ron how did you fasten the wire end screen onto the plastic trap end. Self tapping screws and a washer? It is difficult to see from the photo.

Kurt, grubbing skunks are tough as everyone knows. I know Carl Wilkie uses double door cage traps, short 18 inch, with solid covers baited, both doors opened, set out in the open. He baits right through the cages and catches quite well that way. Got to have a good bait of course. If you set on the edge of where the skunks are grubbing with a good bait like Jonsie has mentioned, that might help. Also, while still using bait and setting near the grubbing area, some small drift fencing might help too. Drift fences surely do work great with armadillos.

Using a soup and a salad that goes well with those yummy grubs is the key to catching aristocratic skunks.

Bob J-
Your way would work (I would lose too many screws and washers though). I attach the screen to the trap with “trap handles”. There are two handles on the trap. They are used for carrying the trap. The front handle is never removed from the trap. The rear handle holds the screen to the trap and is removable. The screen can be removed to transfer the critter from the trap into a transport cage or to release animals.

The rear handle is made by making a square out of smooth steel rod. The square should be made a little larger (about 1/2 inch) than the size of the rear of the cage. (As you can see in the picture, the screen wraps an inch or two around the sides of the trap.) I heated the rod with a propane torch at the bends to prevent cracking of the rod and to soften the rod to make square corners. The bottom of the square (where the ends overlap), is cut to leave about a one inch teat on each side of the square.

I then placed the screen cover around the back of the trap and drilled holes between the wire mesh to allow the teats of the handle to hold the screen in place. When the handle is raised, it sticks a few inches above the trap- therefore forming the “handle”.

The front handle, only needs to extend a couple of inches above the trap, hence, it doesn’t need to be as tall as the trap.

Too much information? It really doesn’t take as much time as it looks.