I'm thinking about trying a toothed beaver trap. Do you think it provides much advantage? I can't even figure out where to buy such a trap though. Or do people buy the teeth part separate and weld it on? I've heard it's easier to drown a beaver this way than with a regular or offset jawed trap.

If they are legal in your state, like they are here, the #14 jump traps do a good job of holding beaver. I know a guy who uses them alot and does quite well. That said their used cost is comparable to the cost of new MB 750s and they are all you need for a beaver foothold IMO.

Great beaver trap.

'Great' is what I've heard, but I've shopped so much it's as if no one even makes them anymore. I can't figure it out. How can something effective b so hard to find. F&T doesn't even seem to sell a toothed trap.

They are almost all out of production these days. You'll have good success finding some used if you ask for them on the trap shed forum here.

Bubble welds across the jaw face

Are they usually jump traps or are coil spring toothed traps available?

http://www.livestockprotection.net/traps01.htm#steel

There are some longsprings.

I don't recall any factory coilspring traps with teeth, at least none that have been popular.

Not my pic but something like this

I've got Onieda victor 14 jumps with teeth for about 25$ on the trap shed. Plan on Getting more this next few weeks

Toothed beaver traps that are older production include

Oneida 'Victor' # 14 jump, single under spring. Expect to pay $20.00 to $30.00 each

Newhouse # 14 double long. Expect to pay at least $90.00 for stock traps. Less with modified chains, et.

Newhouse # 48 double long. Expect to pay at least $75.00 for stock traps. Less for modified ones.

You should have no problem finding used #14 jumps. eBay, the Trap Shed, trapping conventions.

No foot damage and very few pull outs from toe caught beaver with toothed traps.

I'm looking for new. I didn't realize those long springs r so costly and that they probly aren't manufactured in coil spring.

Except for Livestock Protection Company, I'm not aware of anyone currently making a toothed trap. You would have to but regular jaw traps and add "teeth" yourself.

The 3 traps I mentioned previously are no longer made. Production was stopped in the 1970s due to bunny hugger protests.

I suppose I could consider buying used, but I'm always partly afraid the springs are worn, for example.
By adding teeth myself, I assume u mean welding spots on them. I suppose that's an option.

I think you will find that even though they are old - many made over 75 years ago - many of the #14 and #48 Newhouse still have very strong springs. In fact stronger than some of the long spring traps made today.

If you inspect the traps before you buy or if you buy from a reputable dealer/company, you can judge the strength of the springs.

Nails, staples, any similar item can be welded on the jaws to make "teeth". Over the years, I've seen quite a few innovative setups.

Well, I use OV-14's for wolverine, and spring strength has never been an issue. However, they have cast jaws, so, a hairline crack in a jaw, (dry-fire?) is a remote possibility. I also use them for otter at times, and have a couple that are sporting about a 1/4" off-set, due to the otter getting tangled up and working the trap hard.
As an aside, the factory pan/dog leaves a bit to be desired. WOBBLY! All mine now have the PIT system.

Problem with toothed traps is they couldn't pass aihts or bmps because the injuries they caused were not within acceptable parameters of the injury scale 8 times out of 10.
Not trying to start a debate about traps, just stating the facts why they are no longer made.

Thanks

AJE, traps like the #14 and similar toothed traps are perfectly legal to use in Wisconsin as long as "such traps are located completely underwater at all times" (page 9 in the Wisconsin 2016 Trapping Regulations). So you can ignore Boco's pseudo-problem of following AIHTS, which doesn't apply in your state or any other state in the United States.

And those are the facts.