Sleepy creek makes or did make a #5 long with teeth

Sleepy Creek does not recommend the 5 for water trapping so its not for beaver.

Before Michigan outlawed teeth I used a pile of 48 newhouses and 14 jumps,my favorite being the 48's but the 14's were considerably easier to set.Teeth on beaver traps are definitely an asset,but our DNR and trapping assoc.'s didn't see it that way.

There's alot of stuff our DNR an trapping assoc.'s don't see right...

I thought the number 5 sleepy creek was for decoration not use.

Assuming they can be found and purchased, are the Oneida 14 jump traps considered good beaver traps? The reason I ask is that I recall from years, ago, that some trappers felt the single under spring had a tendency to throw an animal's foot out of the trap as it closed. Opinions?

Great beaver trap.

Teeth make any beaver trap.... better.

Even a 330?

Yes even a 330.

Boco don't get this mod group started on body grips. Pretty soon they will be adding laminations base plating and center swiveling them. And when the springs get weak they will be adding helper springs. And maybe they will start 4 springing them. LOL

Reading about your experiences in a lifetime of trapping Beaver in the Ontario bush and leaning heavily on 330's has had me speculating about the difference between operating on remote/registered lines versus the free for all trapping (excepting private property)we have in the states.When I trapped beaver hard I ran into more beaver than I care to admit to that knew more about 330's than I did.Castor mounds set up with 330's would go untouched while the same set with foot holds produced.Dam spillways set with 330's almost always went untouched,I would pull the 330,replace it with a foothold and success.It got to the point where I was setting far more footholds than BG's.No disrespect intended,I just found beaver could be very cagy around half submerged BG's,and they often avoided fully submerged traps too on public land here.I couldn't believe how wiley beaver can be once they've had traps snapped off in their face or lost a few toes.

And I should have added that's where a trap designed for beaver,like a 14 jump or 48 newhouse came into play.These style traps do not fool around,once caught their in till you take them out.No "pullouts"with these.







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Buck The south well SC and NC must be like Canada. In the 15 years I spent down there I might have set a dozen foot holds when trapping beaver. The 330 and the 280 were the go to traps In just about every situation.

That is interesting.More beaver trappers here in the north?Maybe with the current slump in the beaver market and newer generations of beaver we won't see avoidance.I should have mentioned its been a while since I trapped beaver exclusively.I got pretty proficient at foot holding beaver and loved working with traps made for beaver,the No.44 dls,44 underspring with teeth,and stock 4 newhouses all worked good.Actually then as now,a guy looking for an affordable trap with teeth would do well to look at the 14 jump,at approx.$25 a piece its the most affordable around.The other newhouses with teeth like the 114,14longspring and the 48's are all collector items.O'Gormans Wyoming Big Iron was a little pricey but was probably top dog.Really looking forward to chasing them this fall for the first time in years.

When we were young and had no money for real beaver traps. (before BGs) WE welded fence staples In #4 Herters coil springs. Can't ever remember losing a beaver In that set up. But they were like setting a time bomb. You didn't want to get caught In one. LOL

I always thought those No.4 Herters were awesome even without teeth added.For some reason they seemed much beefier and stronger than their 3's.While the No.3 Herters are a dime a dozen up here the 4's were always harder to find.Only ever had a few myself,I'd definitely use them if I could find any.Good beaver trap.

The old timer that I trapped with for many years told me that before 330's were invented in the early 50's,trappers would take one spring off their smaller bear and wolf traps to use for beaver.They liked the weight for drowning,they didn't need to tie a weight to the trap like with a no 4.Of course once the conibears and snowmachines came on the market they revolutionized beaver trapping for ever.

I am not a fan of the teeth just because I don’t see a need. In Minnesota you can garage sale them at $25 for the Victor jumps. When I buy auction trap lots I do not think they add cost to the lot a bit unless someone is specifically after them.

I use jumps solely on baited under ice platforms. Dale Torma taught me that.

Ran into TS-85s with nail teeth welded on at a County job this year. What a fear some device! I didn’t care to set that in muddy water and shutter at that getting a dog.

My impression talking to older trappers whom used them for the last 50 yrs was they did not want them sharp but the uneven edge was the reason they held. At least one company makes a squarish tooth trap, maybe even a hard rubber jaw. I see some canine potential in that worth studying.

Just a thought on this. What about using a Bridger #5 offset and filling in the offset with pieces of key stock to make teeth.

I had a PM from a trapper asking about teeth In traps. We discussed It and he came up with the Idea of using cement nails. And that's a great Idea.
Knock off the very end so they are a little more blunt and weld them In place. Or maybe just turn them around and use the head end. Weld In place then grind off what's left over on the outside of the jaws. This would allow you to hang onto the nail when welding It In place.