I trap primarily with drags and rarely stake a trap down. Build my own drags from rod stock, sucker rod from windmills, or rebar, with cotton picker spindles for the points. They are set at opposing 45 degree angles from the mains shaft of the drag. They probably wiegh 2-3 lbs. I run at least 10 feet of chain, #2, most of the time. yes you can get away with shorter chain if your country is really brushy, but I don't hesitate to set mine up in open country and that length of chain is a big plus in open country. I like to have at least 3 swivels in that length of chain. One at the base of the trap, another a couple of feet down, and the 3rd really doesn't matter. I have some with the 3rd swivel halfway between the 2nd and the drag, and some with the 3rd swivel at the top of the drag and have had good luck either way. I usually bury mine off to the side of the trap bed and lay the chain in so that it all comes out before the drag leaves the hole. If I can't bury it there is usually some juniper duff around to cover it with. I'm not a fan of leaving it uncovered, as there might be a shiny spot on it that the critter may focus on and we want them focused on the set, and not something else, and I never hook mine on anything. I'm not saying that leaving them uncovered and hooking them on trees, brush etc. don't work, that's just not how I learned. Good luck, and happy trapping

Cutting trees on gubt land can get you in a heap of trouble, be advised.

When I started, clogs as these guys call them was my main method.
One time I got balled out by a land owner for cutting a young oak.

I'll never forget that lesson. It's not "the" woods, someone owns and manages it. He later hired me to do cull cutting. We became life long friends.

I switched to Iron wood. We had no coyotes then, I used dbl wire. I will not use wire in that situation today.