In a couple weeks I will be first timing for beaver and hopefully otter. I took advise from here and purchased some 330's and 3 MB750's. However, I did buy some 7 foot snares made by the snare shop thinking there could be places to use them. In Illinois the snare needs to be half in the water. I'm thinking the bottom of a slide, narrow channel in a ditch, how about culverts that have enough water for beaver to swim through? Any advice would be appreciated. Loop size, how to best anchor are also questions. The snares have cam locks.

I think I can be of some help. First follow this video and load them snares correctly so they are more effective...



Then as far as sets I don't think you can beat a fake slide dug in like so....



Dig it deep so the bottom is 10" wide or so and deep the bank so you can hang your snare in the water at the bottom of the slide and still be in 8" of water. Set your snare so it hangs 4" off the bottom of the water with an 8-9" loop. Put some good castor lure 3-4 up the slide and keep your skinning knife sharp.

~ADC~

I've snared a good many beaver over the years both in and out of water.

Here's a few things I've found :

A lot of trappers make the loop far too big.
You can neck snare beaver, but you need the right size loop and height, a fast cable and a fast lock.
( I show it on my FB page all the time.)

( I like 1X19 Korean in the 1/16th size )

On a slanted trail, the cable loop has to be able to twist with it and stay in place.
That takes not only a stiff cable, but usually a steel wammy (support collar) that fits snug.

Beaver don't seem to avoid shiny cable.
I use 600 lb mid swivels on all my snares.
If you can catch the beaver close enough to get back in the water, it will fight the snare a lot less.

If you snare a beaver in the heat of the summer away from water they die real quick from hyperthermia.

This pathetic sketch is how to set in water.
The lure is on that lil stick that is BARELY stuck in the bottom so it falls and floats away once beaver is caught.
The angled stick/limb is stuck in mud and secured well.
The cable Extension is attached below water level on the standing timber.
The snare support wire can come from either side...especially is you use the W method and don't have a one way wammy.tube whammies work from either side.
This is from Pauls Beaver Sites and Sets video which I HIGHLY RECOMMEND!!!..but only if ya wana catch loads of beevahs.

^^^^ good set up there. It can be adjust with rising water

I would have the snare 2\3 Under the water and 1/3 above for a swimming beaver.

YES YES YES...that's what I meant to draw, so I edited the pic with Paint Program.

thanx Boco!

Ttt for Pauls leaning pole set and to plug his Beaver Sites and Sets dvd, since it launched my ADC career.

I dont use the extra leaning pole
Put my lure up the pole about 8"-10" above the top of the snare.
Snare 10" -12" loop 2/3 in the water.
I'v had good luck with 1/16" 1x19. Lost about 1 out of every 100 beaver.
I have now want to my New Jersey legal land snares.
5/64" x 42" 1x19 Newts Master Lock,deer stop,6/0 swivel 6'6" 3/32" 7x7 tail. All Stainless Steel, Copper Ferrules.
MY GO TO SNARE
MY GO TO BEAVER SET

I put my lure on the leaning pole above the snare, and I don't wire it to the tree. This so that when the beaver fights, the pole goes into the water. The lure may be washed away so if another beaver comes around the caught beaver in distress, it won't associate the lure smell to the beaver in distress. It's a precaution just in case.

Good thought.

Due to new laws in my state you need to have breakaways on snares now and i figure S hooks would be the way to go i have some like ADC showed in his video as well as some able restraints, what would you find to be the best way to retrofit these snares as they currently do not have nay breakaway devices

Easiest IMO, nip off the end stop and replace it with a release ferrule. You need the one time purchase of the swagger for them.

Probably have to meet be the deer stop a tad if they are on the snares if present.