.

What did you heat your springs with ? I doubt a small propane torch would do it but don't really know. How long you heat the springs on new Duke 1 1/2's?

Ya Beav- I do have my traps pussified - actually double pussified. All of my springs have been torched to weeken them and my levers have all been bent down to save on the hands. Some of the pans drop so easy sometimes I'm afraid to breath while setting them. Look at the picture of the trap.




Rich- yes we get a bunch of head catches too. Especially with the old #2 square jaw Victors.
I have used carrots but have had much better results with poplar.

K52- Yes just a plain old propane torch. Each spring for about 30-40 seconds. Do one side at a time and let them cool down before setting - the springs will break. The springs will make some noise while heating and I cooled them with a bucket of water. You'll figure it out as you go I'm the dumbest guy I know and I figured it out. Don't just hold the touch in one spot while heating-keep it moving.

Those small propane torches work just fine. About 25 seconds per spring seemed about right.
If you try this start out with about 20 seconds per spring. The very end of the flame tip Is the hottest so try and do the same on each spring. Make sure you let the trap completely cool before trying to set It.

Those 1 1/2 Dukes are some real beasts.

MB Coonguy- I like the carrot pieces down between the pan and jaw idea. I'll have to give that a try!

I've often thought that a Bridger#3 coil with weakened springs would be a great rat trap for not only head catches but body catches too. They would also drowned rats faster to- maybe zero wring offs. But then again I'd have to start all over gearing up but the worst part would be lugging all the steel around.

Thanks guys, I'm sure going to try that this year. No need to fight those strong springs if you don't have to and I like that idea of bending the levers down to save your hands.

Of all the threads I've read this has to be one at the top of the list for information and knowledge. Thanks folks for all the information you have shared with us.

Job well done in my book!!!!

B

After weakening the springs, do you avoid using these traps at locations that you might catch a coon at. Mark the traps for rats only?
Or aren't you worried about pullouts. Agree on great info. Thanks

The few coons that I have caught on my stools where still there. But If I were to be running a coon line I would use something else.
I think I have 300+ traps dedicated just to rat trapping.

Adding those over sized pans Is also a plus.

I agree with the Beav- I've caught dozens of coon in rat sets with weakened springs but if I was after coon I would use my coon equipment.

Heck with the coon! What about the mink? Will they hold them? If not able to drown right away.

Here is a discussion on weakening springs:

https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4379157/Weakening_springs_for_muskrats

Bottomlot, I like the way you bent the levers over, that woud help not digging into meat of hand.........I felt some traps a guy had just replaced springs with no 3 4 coil bridger springs...and felt about perfect.....I could prolly change out springs just as fast as the torch thing, and for only .50/trap.....wonder why people dont go that route?

Ive switched over to bridger 1.5 just for the pan and not having to change out, they could use a larger pan though, and im thinking just weld on fenderwasher to whatever size I want to increase them up to.

Used to always read how bridger 1.5 always lose coon, but dont think Ive ever lost one in one yet

Ya Rich - bending the levers out is easy, just stick the top of the lever in between the jaws of a vice and bend it over. It really saves on the meaty part of the hands when your setting 200-300 every day. Gotta save the money makers for skinning. I've got some Bridgers too- good traps. I have a few hundred duke 1 1/2s. the price was right and they work just fine, a bigger pan like that Kelly dude makes would be nicer though. If rat prices ever get back up to a respectable number I just might have to make the switch to a bigger pan.

I know some of you probably won't believe it but we have caught a few 30lb.-40lb. beaver, some full grown otter and a lot of big coon in weekend 1 1/2 duke coil spring traps. Yes, Im sure a few might have got out but not many-remember this is water trapping and if staked properly the animal is in deeper water and can't really use much leverage to get out.

A good lock up without rounded smooth jaws is WAY more important than spring strength IMO. I don't doubt your claims at all. Heck I used to target coyotes with almost stock 1.5 Duke coils and held them just fine (I say almost stock because they had the jaw tips bubble welded and the j-hooks welded shut). Luckily I got on here years ago and found out it can't be done so I got bigger traps! lol

That’s it....design.... square jaw faces and high levers. Duke copied victor on the 1.5 CS. Good holding trap design.

What I’ve seen of Bridgers is a copy of north woods which is a poor trap in my opinion. I’ve never owned bridgers but have had Nortwoods which seem well built but lose a lot of fur. And Montgomery are the worst.

How’s that for a critique?

I lost coon in the old Style bridger. 1.5s (even on drowners)...before they apparently changed them. Was going to buy some to test but as soon as I saw the rounded jaws, I put them back down. Hated the old Montgomeries and Northwoods because of the rounded jaws and lost coon, and those Monties were strong buggers.
About what Nimzy experienced.

I do think the Bridgers have the best stock pan made (for the small animals) but I'd rather scrap the Duke pan and bolt on a better one, personally. I just don't lose stuff in the Dukes.

The #2 pan will fit the 165 bridgers, but it's a hair too long. The Kelly mink pan on a duke leaves 3/4" around the pan. Now that I made mink traps out of my 165s and experimented with them (and shortened the dog) I'll trim the pans a little bit and I'll center the catch better. Other wise I have a few misses.

I got the bright idea of adding 3 dozen 165s to my water line when I went to all offsets on my canine line. They need a mink pan for water trapping, just not quite so long as it near touches, within a 1/4 inch the loose jaw .