That's a poor configuration for beaver in a lot of circumstances.Even worse for otter if they get to a 330.
As long as there Is limited trigger movement before the trap fires It's a mote point.
Can,t argue the points.
What I was trying to get at was the difference in the trigger itself has much barring as to the shape of the trigger wires and their positioning. When you buy a new duke 330 and then let it rust up after use, the trigger can become very hard to move before it breaks and releases the dog.(especially in the 2nd notch) So to combat that you place in the first notch. If is still too stiff for the application, such as a exposed set as were shown, you can preset the dog a little making the trigger float or take less pressure to fire. This keeps the chance of refusal down in non forced sets.(as shown in the video)
I use a single bolt on trigger most of the time. It seems to be smoother and less stiff than the duke.
The BMI trigger is even smoother and has a 4-way ability. This has a more desired effect when smaller animals such as muskrats are wanted in a large trap.
I use a 2 bolt standard 330 trigger in my cage traps most of the time. It allows the more movement allowing the animal to be in the cage farther before firing. It also becomes stiffer as rust builds up. It works well as long as the bar or bolt it swings on is not rusted. That is why I don,t use on my 330's and my bolts, supporting the triggers on the cage traps I use, are now all stainless.
The configuration is relevant to the way the various designed triggers that are available. Finding the best match is something, I have found, takes time. I thought the video allows one to visualize the best trigger based on different types of triggers and how they would work best.
Maybe this could turn into a discussion as to what works best in various sets and targeted animals.