You may have seen. Best video showing how shape of 330 trigger determines catch, I have seen. Notice how the width or spread between the wires determines how far in the trap he is before it fires. Also how the width makes a more open appearing trap and a target for the direction he should go. It shows the effectiveness of a 330 trigger. Even when the animal backs up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z30ZcB4dMwI

That's a poor configuration for beaver in a lot of circumstances.Even worse for otter if they get to a 330.

As long as there Is limited trigger movement before the trap fires It's a mote point.

Can,t argue the points.

What I was trying to get at was the difference in the trigger itself has much barring as to the shape of the trigger wires and their positioning. When you buy a new duke 330 and then let it rust up after use, the trigger can become very hard to move before it breaks and releases the dog.(especially in the 2nd notch) So to combat that you place in the first notch. If is still too stiff for the application, such as a exposed set as were shown, you can preset the dog a little making the trigger float or take less pressure to fire. This keeps the chance of refusal down in non forced sets.(as shown in the video)

I use a single bolt on trigger most of the time. It seems to be smoother and less stiff than the duke.

The BMI trigger is even smoother and has a 4-way ability. This has a more desired effect when smaller animals such as muskrats are wanted in a large trap.

I use a 2 bolt standard 330 trigger in my cage traps most of the time. It allows the more movement allowing the animal to be in the cage farther before firing. It also becomes stiffer as rust builds up. It works well as long as the bar or bolt it swings on is not rusted. That is why I don,t use on my 330's and my bolts, supporting the triggers on the cage traps I use, are now all stainless.

The configuration is relevant to the way the various designed triggers that are available. Finding the best match is something, I have found, takes time. I thought the video allows one to visualize the best trigger based on different types of triggers and how they would work best.

Maybe this could turn into a discussion as to what works best in various sets and targeted animals.

Certainly worth talking about. I know a guy who swears by leaving his triggers as they come from the factory. He still kills beavers but has a bunch of refusals. His catches end up being single neck strikes. He says he doesn't get refusals but I know the areas he traps and know the numbers he should be getting. There's no other reason than refusals.

The configuration in the video is kind of an extreme opposite. I think the trigger wires are too far apart at their base. I like an inch or so to come straight down.

For concealment pirposes, not much works better than trigger on the bottom and a nice wide spread bit I still like the wires coming together an inch or so at the base.

Me too. I measure about a thumb's width up from the bracket, then bend with pliers to get a nice angled bend. I like them in the V-shape with it set on the bottom.

I make very few exposed sets when I set a conibear. It is easier for me to clean the trigger if I need to with the trigger on top and use sticks or small logs to break up the out line of the trap. I always try to give a target spot with the trigger shape.

I would think a 1216 would be a thought process if trying to catch otter or the last of the smaller ones for adc.

Depending on where you set a beaver trap(330)there will be different trigger configurations that will get you the most consistent catches(and some that will guarantee misses).You have to take into account what the beaver will be doing and how it will be moving(swimming slow,fast,walking,possibility of carrying something etc) at different sets.This will dictate the trigger configuration and position.
Beavers are taken in many different applications of a 330 at different times of the year,in different locations and different behaviour patterns(feeding behaviour,marking behaviour,building,run mtc behaviour etc).Some require separate trigger configurations to produce the most consistent catches at the different sets.One could write a chapter or two on trigger configurations for different sets both open water and under ice.

Kirk, I agree. I very seldom, if at all, set a BG without breaking that outline up. Not just with sticks and/or vegetation, but my traps are painted camo as well.

The larger traps can help in certain situations. There are positives in having a larger hole sometimes. I've got a half dozen 660s in the arsenal. They're slow but they kill. I speed them up with wax on the sides.

I don't like an exposed trap, I think it triggers a climbing response. If I have to use that set-up I will build a tunnel with the brush forcing the animal to "duck", most of my triggers are round and on the bottom. Shy ones I use a snare, really feel a circle gives them more confidence.

To add to this: I think the trigger being able move like a limber weed helps take the shyness away as he approaches. I think the snare moving so slightly in the water as well as a wire trigger with wave action gives the stronger appearance of being a natural occurring situation to the approaching animal. It takes away from a rigid obstruction blocking the path.

The snares wire diameter and how it is blended would also give the approaching animals an idea whether it would expand as he goes through, such as going through grass on a narrow trail.

Well you can also do to much blocking and make a natural looking location Into not so natural looking location. And that will cost you some beaver.
If my 330 Is half In the water then my triggers are bent In the shape of a T and are under water. If the trap Is completely under water I can't see where the trigger shape Is a big deal.
I caught 1000s of beaver In the south with a bare trap with no camouflage sitting In a Indentation along the bank. Or In a dry land channel leading from one water source to another.
Sure sometimes you need to get a little sneaky but for the most part those beaver aren't all that smart.
If a beaver will swim out to a 330 placed on float and get caught . Well I rest my case. LOL

You must have been trapping north of a line that would run from The East Northern Florida Line north 70 miles ( just south of the South Carolina line and west into deep southern Georgia, Alabama, and Missisippi.

I haven,t experienced that in my area except in the coldest part of the winter where I trap. 21 December to about Feb. !. Nuisance trapping.

There is a big difference at least what I have experienced.

My son trapped in Bullock county and Evans county Ga for several years and he said beaver were dumber there. But that is north of the line I mentioned.

Trapped SC about 5 miles from The NC border. So your telling me beaver are smarter south of that Line. LOL

Well to be honest the biology people told me that most of these beaver were decedents of WI beaver that were shipped In many years ago. So maybe those Yankee beaver were not as smart. But they graded right along with MN and WI beaver at the auction.

It ain't about the ones you catch, it's the ones you miss.

If your catching a few 100 In 2 months you want to miss a few. LOl I never found beaver very hard to catch. Well there are a few that will test you.

If I'm ADC trapping and what them all then I use different tactics. But when your fur trapping your running and gunning for the most part.

Beaver that have been messed with before are bad news. The most difficult beaver I have ever encountered were those beaver that lived in those small ponds. They where about as weary as an old dog coyote. But they can all be caught.

Yes

When I first trapped beaver was in North Alabama, close to Decatur Alabama. I caught 200 in 6 weeks and sold them in Penn. They graded as northern beaver. It was common to have bites from other beaver. (Same line as where you were trapping)

In Georgia only about 30% were garment quality. Beaver were twice as easy to catch in North Ala. Very few bitten compared to North Ala. Beaver are more active and more aggressive the colder the climate.

It has to do with the elevation changes, also. I talk about that at the beginning of day three in my first video. I also showed examples of catching beaver that were going around my exposed conibears in the second video.

Beaver are just more active the cooler the climate except for extremes. The warmer it is the more they pay attention to smells and sounds that may harm them or indicate harm could come to them.