In my practices or methods , they are disposable, if I were pulling them when pulling sets at all , unless in very easy to pull ground.
I would use rebar .
Imo that is the advantage to a disposable anchor or earth anchor but pulling them then rebar is just as easy.

There Is a huge learning curve when it comes to most things especially trapping. It just takes perseverance to come up with the right system.

After your posts about pre drilling for re bar or smooth stakes I'm going to be giving It a try. I'm already getting some bits and I'm going to do some pre season work to get It down. NO sense In struggling with a new system come opening day.
I think getting the right angle as to cross staking Is going to test me a bit. But I'm sure with some practice I'll get It down. Any tips from those that have done this would be appreciated. I use those butterfly type cross staking devices.

I really like my smooth stakes probably won't ever go back to re bar. The only thing about cross staking Is I don't like having to dig such a deep trap bed. In soft ground no big deal but In frozen ground that could be a chore.

Will a regular ferrule swedging tool work on copper just like it does on aluminum ? Or is the process different ?

I use 7x19 for my hog snare extensions. I have no problem using 7x7. I simply prefer 7x19 for extensions and drowners. Im pretty sure that the last time I had to trash a beaver drowner due to kinks was in Jan or February 2017. I had a beaver that was able to move my 44 lb plates that I used as drowner weights. It was able to create slack in the cable, and it was a mess, so I have not had a kinked beaver drowner in over a year. I stopped using weights and went to staking my deep end or using a rod, and it’s nice not having to fool with weights anymore. I simply don’t have problems since going to staked 7x19 drowners with Biter Cam Locks. Staked 7x7’s performance may be the same, but I haven’t tried it. Taut drowner cables with Biter Cam Locks are the ticket in my opinion

Most of my 1/8 copper has come from either Snare one or snare shop. I use a $30 pair of swagers from Lowe’s

So do you put let say a wolffang stake end on each end of your drowning cable and put one end in the bank and the other end in deep water?

Probably not.

I use a 5 ft rebar that has a 3/4” annealed nut hammered a foot from the bottom. Most are simply kill poles with an annealed nut hammwred on. I don’t want to carry anymore than I have to, and by doing it this way I get a KP or a deep stake from the same piece of rebar.


My cables have an adjustable loop on the bottom end, and there’s a stop 24” from the end.


I loop 1 or more drowner’s deep loop and drive the stake in. My top loops are either anchored a 3/8” T stake or by fastening to a tree or root. Since I have such long drowners, my trap doesn’t always have to be near the anchor point, so I have options.

Yes,same tool.

Beav,you will find there is very little learning curve to it.The angle is not critical,just as long as they cross.Sometimes hitting a rock changes the angle.I don't worry about it.I,ve had situations where one stake went straight down and others where a stake went almost horizontal.They still work.

I dig a corner of the trap bed between 3 o'clock and 6.This is where I put the stakes,not under the trap.They don't have to be as deep as the rest of the bed,just barely under the surface.

I have never had a cross stake budged,either hammered or drilled and that includes a couple wolf catches.I think you will find it easy.

So your not drilling through the double staking devise to begin with as you would a guide for the angle?

I agree on the holding power of cross staking. When I drove In 2 16" 1/2" smooth stakes In soft ground conditions you couldn't budge them. But when It was pulling time a twist of the wrist with the vise grips and they were out. Same with removing them In frozen ground. I like to leave them about 1 1/2" from being driven In tight. That way you just drive the stake In a bit and that breaks It's hold and then they can be twisted out with no problem.
I thought about driving one straight In and the other at a angle.

My buddy drives 2 30" stakes for each set. I laugh at him when It comes time to pull. Same when he's driving them.
I would go out right now and practice but It's way to hot. LOL

Cross staking with 30” stakes would hold anything. The only way I would pull those stakes is with a front end loader!

I think you will like the pre-drilling method. I know that it is great for me. Much easier, and less aching wrists and shoulders.

Actually to pull stakes, I use a lever stake puller that I made. It is similar to most, with some improvements. It has two hooks for different leverage / travel. Each position has a couple links of chain and a hook that fits 1/2” rebar. Slide it onto the stake and lever it out with the lower hook for more power and less travel or the higher hook for less power and more travel.

Beav,I use a short cable through my end swivel.I don't like the butterflies.I don't drill through it.I just drill the first hole,tap the stake in,through the cable end and then let the cable tell me where to make the 2nd hole.

I got 100s of those butter fly deals. But I had them made to my specs. So I think they will work. But I can go to the cable deals If they work better. I'll have some of both In my truck.
Are you a drop cloth man due to the weather or for other reasons?

If you are used to the butterflies they will work fine.I don't like them when I want to connect an extension cable or drag chain.I don't think the distance between the stake heads is important.Same with the angle.
Our two wolf instructors believed in using kneeling canvasses,so I've tried them.They are handy when there are a lot of frozen chips to haul away.

Cross staked 30"!?!? Good lord, he trying to catch Chevy's? I cry a little bit when it's time to pull my 18"

NO he doesn't cross stake he drives 2 30" stakes straight In.

my butter fly devises have 2 chain links added to the J hook. Then I hook up my trap chain or what ever I need to that set up with a quick link.