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For coyote/wolf snares I use 6 feet of 5/64 1/19 cable and 6 feet of 7X7 or 1X19 5/64 or 3/32 cable for an extension, usually used cable not suitable for loop construction. The midline #9 wire swivel is simply for connecting the extension to the snare. I use a 3/32 double ferrule as a whammy for supporting the snare on an 11ga support wire. A 50# coil compression dispatch spring is used along with whatever lock I choose to use, generally an Amberg, cam loc or micro lock. Always go with the lay of the cable when forming loops. Ferrules and end stops should be cramped with a swagger or hammered and cross punched with a standard screwdriver. For ultimate efficiency the snare should be loaded. This can be done once the snare construction is completed or just before hanging in the field.
Snare loading is a method of adjusting the snare so that it has a rounder loop and will work more efficiently. To load the snare, grab the lock with your left hand and about 7 -8 inches of cable with your right hand. Run this portion of cable, in its natural wire curve, several times over a small round rod or screwdriver that has been clamped in a vise. Do not apply to much pressure on 7X7 cable or the snare will become kinked or twisted. The 1X19 cable will take a lot more pressure but you still need to be careful. Practice will teach you how much pressure is needed to provide either cable with a round loop that will close quickly when little pressure is applied to the bottom of the loop. As mentioned previously 1X19 will provide larger round loops than 7X7 cable.
The only constant in trapping is change so keep learning.
Come to the Fall Texas Trappers Convention. I’ll show you how to build whatever snare you want from mink to hogs, and anything in between. 7x7 or 1x19, whatever. Mr Simpson asked me to do that for your organization, and I’ll gladly help.
There are some YouTube videos people have put out if you don’t want to wait until October
I'm going to try to make it there! PM me with your name and I'll keep an eye out for you there!
If you don't drive, hopefully a parent will take you OR make contacts with officers in the TTFHA and here to get a ride. We have had many teens come to our conventions, brought by a single mom or even another trapper coming thru their area on the way and stop to give kids a ride.
Keep on learning bud, it will take you far!
www.sevenoakstrappingsupplies.com for trap mods and gear The 10 Commandments are not suggestions. Buy a soldiers meal EVERY chance you can.
Like a number of Western coyote trappers, I use 1/16' 1x19 cable with torsion springs. With 1/16" cable that type of kill spring AND solid tie-off is necessary to avoid a few chew offs. The camlock has teeth.
First rule to making a snare or CR is everything has to fall in line with cable lay. Make your bends to lay in line with the cable. if you canter left or right the cable will not allow the lock to move free with the load. Then again Many western snaremen that I have talked to do not like load. the wind is so strong that a loaded cable will close. Loading a cable does not mean round it means adding memory to close. My double load snares and CR's does not have a round loop, but is very fast and sure close, with a positive stop point, with no back up even with a relaxing style lock. If I can ever figure out how to post pics on here I will post a pic.
Ron Jones http://www.acpwildlifepro.net/ Rednecks Pride Game Calls / Outdoor Scents Rednecks Pride Outdoors podcast Friend me on FaceBook
Re: Snare making help?
[Re: Furvor]
#6271615 07/03/1808:04 AM07/03/1808:04 AM
Like a number of Western coyote trappers, I use 1/16' 1x19 cable with torsion springs. With 1/16" cable that type of kill spring AND solid tie-off is necessary to avoid a few chew offs. The camlock has teeth.
Got it built just like I do mine , except I add a trigger on the kill spring ...makes a difference in kill time . Without a trigger I tend to believe the spring acts much like a shock absorber . With a trigger the snare closes shut and when it bottoms out the trigger goes off and takes an additional 1/2 to 3/4 inch of slack out of cable and finishes the job.
I mainly double load for the downward fire or trigger. But it also aids in keeping the loop open in wind and brush bys. Alot of folks confuse my double load with over load.
Last edited by Jonesie; 07/04/1807:53 AM.
Ron Jones http://www.acpwildlifepro.net/ Rednecks Pride Game Calls / Outdoor Scents Rednecks Pride Outdoors podcast Friend me on FaceBook
Re: Snare making help?
[Re: Jonesie]
#6272434 07/04/1810:57 AM07/04/1810:57 AM
I mainly double load for the downward fire or trigger. But it also aids in keeping the loop open in wind and brush bys. Alot of folks confuse my double load with over load.
“I firmly believe that I may not be where I am today had it not been for Jonesie. I consider him one of my most important and influential mentors that I’ve had. He has been very helpful, and he’s given me advice that I’ve been rewarded tremendously for following. Yes, Jonesie, I mean that. I’m not sucking up, there’s no need to. There are a few lessons he’s taught me that I’ll never forget, and the success of my business is, in part, due to following his advice on a few key subjects. Not sure if I’ve ever said it, so there it is—-THANK YOU for the help over the years buddy.”
Aix, I’ll second that. There is no doubt that I wouldn’t be an ADC business owner today w/ out his coaching/mentoring.
Yeah Jeff. I call it double load because I put standard load in then add the trigger or fire. Over loads are fast, but touchy with wind and brush by. Mink snares with over load are great. Standard loads are good, but with the swing out fire can wedge on a downward pressure on the cable. You can show anyone Jeff.
Ron Jones http://www.acpwildlifepro.net/ Rednecks Pride Game Calls / Outdoor Scents Rednecks Pride Outdoors podcast Friend me on FaceBook