I bought a beaver board stencil at the NTA convention, and was wondering if I am better off making boards out of plywood or OSB? Also, double sided boards seem like a good idea and a space saver but how do you go about tacking the second beaver on the board, without messing up the first? I tack them on the board with nails.
Thanks for any help!

Plywood is easier to pull the nails out of, and pound them into.

Make a 2x4 frame that you can set the board on for the second side. I use horseshoe nails so I lay the 2x4s on end so they are 3.5” tall.

OSB is really rough on one side. At least what I use is. I wouldn’t want to use it as a two sided board. I use it because it is cheap but Dfabs is correct it is harder to nail into than plywood. Like the idea of the 2x4 frame even for a one sided board. May make nailing easier.

3\4 inch plywood is best,and use a thin sharp nail like a pinning nail and your boards will last much longer.You can get by with 5/8 but 3/4 is way better.
I have 4 blocks that fit onto the corners of my table so I can flip the board and nail beaver on the other side.
You can also use the plans in the FHA fur handling manual to make a beaver table that allows you to flip the boards for nailing both sides.

That's what I use, also use it as a skinning table, I use 3/4" popular plywood, have had some of my boards for 15 years.

I use 1/2" plywood and staples just don't press down hard on the stapler and the staples are a sinch to remove. Electric staple gun makes boarding beavers fast,and they keep a nice uniform oval, LOL I know its not for everyone but when my right hand has a hammer my left hand is nervous!And I use both sides of my boards to utilize space

Thanks for the information everyone, I'll pick up a sheet or two of plywood. If I had the space I would definitely build one of those tables, but my 12×16 fur shed is already tight.
Dfabs- thanks for the frame idea! I would have messed up a few beaver if I wouldn't have asked this question....

If you're buying 4x8 sheets, cut three 48"x32" boards instead of two 48"x48" to get another board. I made that mistake the first time I made a board.

Thanks, that's the plan. I would have made that mistake too, but I read that trick on here a week or two ago.

Somewhere I saw pics, diagram of that table that would fold up to a wall. After extended two legs would then fold down.

And if you buy your plywood at a big box stores, get them to cut it.

That's a good idea, QBD. I wouldn't have thought of that.

080808- that sounds awesome, but still wouldn't really work for me. I'll have to post a few pics of my fur shed so you guys can see what kind of space I have to work with.

This is what I did

Yep I made one. I'll take pictures and post them this evening if I remember. It works great and folds up out of the way I have a stainless steel table top I through on too of it for skinning beaver as well as bait make table.

It works very very well

Cut some slots in the plywood in the corners for handles to make it easier to move around.

I needed some new boards a while back, and they didn't have good two side 3/4" at my lumberyard so I got two sheets of good one side 3/8" ply, cut them into board sizes and glued them together. Wasn't much more expensive,and they are smooth and nice to work with on both sides. Now I have three boards that will handle six beaver. Works great on my table that lets me flip them over.

Rip a 3/4 X 3/4 inch notch in the edge of 3 pieces of 8 ft 2 X 4s. Cut them to length and screw them together at the corners. Cut the corners of your board, or drill a couple of finger holes so you don't need to lift the whole setup to flip them.

Don't staple hides if you don't have a really well ventilated area, they will mold. Nails let you lift the hide from the board.

For a skinning table I use an old porcelain fridge door, probably 70/80 years old.

Didn’t someone on here design a table that would store the boards ? Seems like it even had wheels on the bottom to move it around the shop .

If someone has a drawing and dimensions of that table I would like to build one. Seemed to be a solid looking table that could be used for a lot of things.

Glad you mentioned this. I've been wanting to find a better way to store the boards ehiłe beavers are drying. I'm going to make a rolling rack for just that purpose

Forget the plywood and use the ends of cable spools. They are much thicker and heavier, but simple to roll around. Plus, you can then nail into dimensional lumber - which takes nails way better. On top of that, they are usually free.

Where can I find the cable spool ends? Sounds like a good idea.

Try electrical supply places or a power company lineman, if you know one. You want them between 36 an 40 inches. any smaller and you won't be able to fit a blanket-sized beaver on. Any larger they get too heavy.

Whacker do you have a “ station “ that you park or stack them in or just lean them along the wall ?

I use plywood for my and I store them under my skinning bench and I have a rack that dry them on that you can dry both side with out problem.As for me nail the skins I have 2 benches that is across each other and it is good for the plywood to work to nail the skins and also when I put other skin on boards also.

I cut a hole in them with a hole saw and hang them above my chest freezers from bicycle hooks so I don't hit my head on them. You could certainly build a rack for the floor to roll them into. Otherwise just lean them against the wall and,if you have to move them, just roll out of the way

Hang up your boarded beaver for drying,it gets them out of the way.

Put three inch screws or nails into the wall about 1 inch apart in pairs of two. Stand your boards up and slide them in between the nails. The nails will stand the boards up while beaver are drying. Cheap, easy, quick, and convenient tip I picked up in a forum somewhere. Best update I have ever made to my fur room.

Gibb has posted the plans for the folding beaver table over somewhere in the NAFA fur handling pages

It saves a lot of space and holds 4 beaver drying

Loco .. you don't lift the hide off the board by sliding it up to the end of the nails?

Only if the fur is damp.I normally let the beaver fur dry on the carcass before processing.

Here's the pictures I promised

Table folded up and out if the way

Table down

With two sided beaver board on it

With a stainless steel table top I use for skinning beavers, making bait, ect

Michigan Trappin, if I had more wall space that would be the ticket. The one I remember seeing on here had wheels on the bottom, held a bunch of boards vertically and one on top like yours .

MAN! That's nice, M.T! I need to shuffle things around and see if I can make one of those work. Thanks for the pictures!

I used 3/4" plywood for my beaver boards. Also made a beaver/skinning/projects table. It has port holes on the sides to access a shelf under the top. I have two more shelves near the bottom for more gear and belly boards. It also has a vise to hold boards and a clamp for skinning the smaller stuff.





Made a beaver board rack too.



I used multi-colored lines on my beaver board, easier to keep things on track.

Nice set up rendezvous,and your fur handling is superb.

Boco, thanks!

The different colors is a great idea.

I plan on doing multiple colors too.

I have been doing the different coloured lines lately also.

Boco, where did that stencil come from? I like how that one is made a lot better than mine.

Nafa gives them out at our council meetings,or they did in the past anyway.