Hi I wanted to build a 30x36 pole shed into this hillside, my thoughts were to auger 6x6 posts on 4-5' centers and backfill with concrete.
Then frame between post's with 2x6's, cover with 3/4" treated plywood, poly, Styrofoam and drain tile.
The hill is about 7' tall tapering to 5' and it's all sand/gravel.
I was planning on having 12' sidewalls.

Do you think this would work??

I am about to do something similar as well, I am going with a boulder retaining wall and plan on leaving enough space between the shed/retaining wall to drive around the shed.

I built my 16x20 2 story barn with 16' 4x4's on 4' centers x 36" deep, set in concrete with rebar. with 4' knee walls and 12" joist's, that leaves 8' min inside clearance, with the ground slope, I have around 10' at the door. Layed down a large footprint sized plastic tarp and back filled with crushed gravel . Doesn't cost hardly anything extra to go 2 story's. 2x10 or 12 floor joist's, and 3/4 plywood floor is all, plus material for the loft door and some windows in the back. I used 90% scrounged materials and bought some on sale and kept till ready to build, cost was under $800. I think 6x6's are overkill and 2x4's nailers are plenty for the 3/8 or 1/2" plywood siding. I used busted bundle roofing shingles on the roof and for siding, mixed up the colors and call it "Digital Camo". LOL

When I did those I ran TRT T&G 2x8 horizontal to above grade, coated and foam board.
The trade name of that product is "mud boards". Ask at a real building center.
It may also be available in ship lap.

It looks like the trees may be to close to the building. The trees may grow out, over the building for sunlight and over time could eventually fall on the building. I would cut the trees back far enough, so that if they fall when they are larger, they won't hit the building.

Keith

If I was you I would just spend the money on a concrete footing and foundation grade treated studs/sheeting for that side. Run 6-8' out on each corner than switch to pole framing. That will probably cost the same and will stop the building from racking after it's back filled. Purlins and 2x6 posts would line right up to it.

Exactly, what I was thinking.

Doing it the way your doing you might as well put footing and concrete walls in and stick build. Your going to have a drainage problem and poles will lift with frost if water freezes into the poles.

It can be done your way but better options available.

Either form and pour a foundation or slope cut that bank and install a rock filled drainage. The way you propose will take almost the the same concrete as a foundation, More if you pour against the bank and is almost guaranteed to come out crooked when your pole moves during the pour. You can then either set posts with brackets and Red Heads or stick frame that side. To slope cut that you would lose all the trees, but they will be a future problem at any rate.

No way a cement truck is getting to this location, so any concrete would have to be done with a mixer.
In saying that how many yards of concrete you figure it would take to pour a footing and what size would it have to be?
If that's even doable with a small mixer to pour a footing.

Footings a usually 8' thick and 16" wide. Have you considered cement blocks. also if you can get a pickup to this spot, an allwheel drive mixer will get there.

I ran into this, I opted for poured walls all the way around, and framed traditional stud walls on top. The cost is a little higher, but I’m so glad I did it.

If you were my customer I would recommend putting in a footing along the back and ten feet down either side. That's 56 lineal feet of 8" x 16" footing and comes to 1.728 cubic yards or about 78-80 lb. bags of concrete mix.

Then lay up 12" or 10" concrete block to about 8" above grade. Stick frame on the masonry walls and post frame the rest. Lay a 4" perforated PVC pipe, holes down, on the outside of the footing and daylight it on both sides. When you backfill, put a swale in that directs the water that will come down that hill around either side of the building.

Or, you could post frame the whole thing and lay up a dry-stack retaining wall to the top of that cut. Something like Versa-Loc would work good there.