Re: Trap dipping question
[Re: Chaz Lyle]
#6390998
12/05/18 05:56 PM
12/05/18 05:56 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 21,053 St. Louis Co, Mo
BigBob
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 21,053
St. Louis Co, Mo
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I won't use dip, but, I'd stick to the water based type myself, and I would do the car wash BEFORE the dish washer. Happy Wife, happy life.
Every kid needs a Dog and a Curmudgeon.
Remember Bowe Bergdahl, the traitor.
Beware! Jill Pudlewski, Ron Oates and Keven Begesse are liars and thiefs!
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Re: Trap dipping question
[Re: son-of-grizz]
#6391164
12/05/18 08:47 PM
12/05/18 08:47 PM
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Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 7 Missouri
Chaz Lyle
OP
trapper
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OP
trapper
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 7
Missouri
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Why not just wax and go. My k9 traps have yet to be dipped and this is 3 season running them. You tell me... I’m new to this whole gig and looking to learn.
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Re: Trap dipping question
[Re: Chaz Lyle]
#6391298
12/05/18 11:00 PM
12/05/18 11:00 PM
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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 85 Green Lane, PA
SwoleTrapper
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 85
Green Lane, PA
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The wax will make sure they snap better after being in the ground. It will keep them smooth and slick while creating a water barrier to prevent real rust from forming. If you set traps without wax they will not snap very good after just a few days of sitting. I use dishwasher, logwood, then wax. I do my wax on an electric burner to CMA. Get the wax hot so it looks like water and doesnt have a ring around the pot. Use scentless wax specifically for traps, not beeswax. Put the traps in and leave them sitting until you are sure they are hot. When you do that it prevents too much was from sticking when you pull them out. It drips off like water and dries with a wax sheen instead of a layer. The trap will be shiny, not looking over coated.
I honestly dont know why they ever get dyed. I weld and work with metal a lot, it makes no sense to me. If you want real protection under the wax I would use a self etching primer, then wax. Do that in the spring to new traps and let them sit outside until trapping season comes. I will be doing that next year myself. You may have to file the dogs, but they will always snap shut real hard all season long.
If I am wrong, I really hope someone corrects me, because I must be missing something about the logwood.
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Re: Trap dipping question
[Re: Golf ball]
#6391357
12/06/18 12:19 AM
12/06/18 12:19 AM
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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 85 Green Lane, PA
SwoleTrapper
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 85
Green Lane, PA
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I’m not sure what you missed , lol ! The dye gets in the metal similar to a gun getting blued . Their are some technical terms for it but what I stated is pretty accurate I think . I understand that, but does a mm or two of paint really mess up the trap? Isnt that what a file is for? Modern paint is tough as nails. On a gun, paint would get hot, so bluing is great. ON a trap, I dont get it.
Last edited by SwoleTrapper; 12/06/18 12:20 AM.
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Re: Trap dipping question
[Re: SwoleTrapper]
#6391448
12/06/18 07:19 AM
12/06/18 07:19 AM
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 533 MN
SkyeDancer
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trapper
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 533
MN
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Dye helps slow down rust and given the price of traps why wouldn't you. I really don't see the need for wax. I disagree that an unwaxed trap comes up slower then a waxed trap after a few days
Last edited by SkyeDancer; 12/06/18 07:20 AM.
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Re: Trap dipping question
[Re: SwoleTrapper]
#6391497
12/06/18 09:19 AM
12/06/18 09:19 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,511 nunya,ks
tbn
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,511
nunya,ks
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The wax will make sure they snap better after being in the ground. It will keep them smooth and slick while creating a water barrier to prevent real rust from forming. If you set traps without wax they will not snap very good after just a few days of sitting. I use dishwasher, logwood, then wax. I do my wax on an electric burner to CMA. Get the wax hot so it looks like water and doesnt have a ring around the pot. Use scentless wax specifically for traps, not beeswax. Put the traps in and leave them sitting until you are sure they are hot. When you do that it prevents too much was from sticking when you pull them out. It drips off like water and dries with a wax sheen instead of a layer. The trap will be shiny, not looking over coated.
I honestly dont know why they ever get dyed. I weld and work with metal a lot, it makes no sense to me. If you want real protection under the wax I would use a self etching primer, then wax. Do that in the spring to new traps and let them sit outside until trapping season comes. I will be doing that next year myself. You may have to file the dogs, but they will always snap shut real hard all season long.
If I am wrong, I really hope someone corrects me, because I must be missing something about the logwood.
I do the opposite. Dye no wax. Dye stays on,wax comes off. I have pulled and took to the car wash about 4 or 5 piles of traps that I pulled this year and really beared down on cleaning. The dye is still there. I don't worry about rust or a show trap,End of season clean and dye and they are ready to go again.
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Re: Trap dipping question
[Re: tbn]
#6391708
12/06/18 02:02 PM
12/06/18 02:02 PM
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Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 7 Missouri
Chaz Lyle
OP
trapper
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OP
trapper
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 7
Missouri
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The wax will make sure they snap better after being in the ground. It will keep them smooth and slick while creating a water barrier to prevent real rust from forming. If you set traps without wax they will not snap very good after just a few days of sitting. I use dishwasher, logwood, then wax. I do my wax on an electric burner to CMA. Get the wax hot so it looks like water and doesnt have a ring around the pot. Use scentless wax specifically for traps, not beeswax. Put the traps in and leave them sitting until you are sure they are hot. When you do that it prevents too much was from sticking when you pull them out. It drips off like water and dries with a wax sheen instead of a layer. The trap will be shiny, not looking over coated.
I honestly dont know why they ever get dyed. I weld and work with metal a lot, it makes no sense to me. If you want real protection under the wax I would use a self etching primer, then wax. Do that in the spring to new traps and let them sit outside until trapping season comes. I will be doing that next year myself. You may have to file the dogs, but they will always snap shut real hard all season long.
If I am wrong, I really hope someone corrects me, because I must be missing something about the logwood.
I do the opposite. Dye no wax. Dye stays on,wax comes off. I have pulled and took to the car wash about 4 or 5 piles of traps that I pulled this year and really beared down on cleaning. The dye is still there. I don't worry about rust or a show trap,End of season clean and dye and they are ready to go again. What dye are you using? And what is the difference in a dip vs a dye?
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Re: Trap dipping question
[Re: Golf ball]
#6393213
12/08/18 10:59 AM
12/08/18 10:59 AM
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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 85 Green Lane, PA
SwoleTrapper
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 85
Green Lane, PA
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Swole I agree that today’s paint is great stuff , I’ve used it in the past and plan to use it in the future. Your first application of primer and paint is critical to a long lasting protective coating as paint does not get into the metal. With wax a coating may not last a full season after multiple catches but will still be present in all of the little cracks and crevices that would be sure to rust after the first rain. Next year when you re dye and wax ( I don’t do both every year ) the wax on the trap will melt off and a new coat will be applied. This brings up my only issue with paint ! Even if you get your first coat of primer and paint perfect a time will come that you need to re paint ! Over time you will develop a pretty thick layer of paint and this is the issue with paint that I don’t care for.
If someone has a better way to paint traps I’m all ears as I have a dozen new MB 650’s that I intend to paint white ! Thats why I said self etching primer. Thats all you need, not paint. If it had to be paint I would use a cheap enamel. Self etching primers have some acid in them and bite into the steel better than anything else. Its an extremely tough as nails primer that wont flake or chip off of the metal.
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