All,

This is my second year trapping, but first year going it alone. I have 3 dozen brand new MB550’s and 650’s. I’ll be trapping coyotes, fox, and bobcat.

I ran all of the traps through the dish washer on a heavy cycle, then took the traps to the car wash. I power washed them with hot water/soap, then rinsed them really good. They’ve now been sitting outside for two days and I’m ready to dip them.

What dip should I use, and how exactly should I perform the dipping process? I’ve considered using full metal jacket but have no experience with it. Will it last for a whole season? Any help is greatly appreciated!

I won't use dip, but, I'd stick to the water based type myself, and I would do the car wash BEFORE the dish washer. Happy Wife, happy life.

Why not just wax and go. My k9 traps have yet to be dipped and this is 3 season running them.

You tell me... I’m new to this whole gig and looking to learn.

First year it would be ok to just wax. After, wash in hot water to remove dirt/grime and leave to lightly rust. I use a gas based dip, but due so in early spring so there is time to air out. I don't wax

Wax and use ! I only dye after they have developed some rust and then use walnuts or sumac or logwood dye. You’ve made a good choice in your trap selection, they should last you and your kids a lifetime. Think of the dye as blueing and the wax as an extra protective finish .

The wax will make sure they snap better after being in the ground. It will keep them smooth and slick while creating a water barrier to prevent real rust from forming. If you set traps without wax they will not snap very good after just a few days of sitting. I use dishwasher, logwood, then wax. I do my wax on an electric burner to CMA. Get the wax hot so it looks like water and doesnt have a ring around the pot. Use scentless wax specifically for traps, not beeswax. Put the traps in and leave them sitting until you are sure they are hot. When you do that it prevents too much was from sticking when you pull them out. It drips off like water and dries with a wax sheen instead of a layer. The trap will be shiny, not looking over coated.

I honestly dont know why they ever get dyed. I weld and work with metal a lot, it makes no sense to me. If you want real protection under the wax I would use a self etching primer, then wax. Do that in the spring to new traps and let them sit outside until trapping season comes. I will be doing that next year myself. You may have to file the dogs, but they will always snap shut real hard all season long.

If I am wrong, I really hope someone corrects me, because I must be missing something about the logwood.

I’m not sure what you missed , lol ! The dye gets in the metal similar to a gun getting blued . Their are some technical terms for it but what I stated is pretty accurate I think .

I understand that, but does a mm or two of paint really mess up the trap? Isnt that what a file is for? Modern paint is tough as nails. On a gun, paint would get hot, so bluing is great. ON a trap, I dont get it.

Dye helps slow down rust and given the price of traps why wouldn't you. I really don't see the need for wax. I disagree that an unwaxed trap comes up slower then a waxed trap after a few days

I do the opposite. Dye no wax. Dye stays on,wax comes off. I have pulled and took to the car wash about 4 or 5 piles of traps that I pulled this year and really beared down on cleaning. The dye is still there. I don't worry about rust or a show trap,End of season clean and dye and they are ready to go again.

Swole I agree that today’s paint is great stuff , I’ve used it in the past and plan to use it in the future. Your first application of primer and paint is critical to a long lasting protective coating as paint does not get into the metal. With wax a coating may not last a full season after multiple catches but will still be present in all of the little cracks and crevices that would be sure to rust after the first rain. Next year when you re dye and wax ( I don’t do both every year ) the wax on the trap will melt off and a new coat will be applied. This brings up my only issue with paint ! Even if you get your first coat of primer and paint perfect a time will come that you need to re paint ! Over time you will develop a pretty thick layer of paint and this is the issue with paint that I don’t care for.

If someone has a better way to paint traps I’m all ears as I have a dozen new MB 650’s that I intend to paint white !

What dye are you using? And what is the difference in a dip vs a dye?

When I first started trapping I dyed everything. It's a long process and best to be done before season starts. I personally prefer walnuts or log wood dye, used dip didn't like how traps turned out at all. When I started to make a go at trapping coyote I went and bought 4 dz. Duke 1 3/4 offset traps, yes I know there are better but I didn't buy a Cadillac for my first car so why buy top of the line traps? As for the wax only, why take a brand new trap and intentionally rust when it will happen anyways when you use it first year. Just get a good coat of wax on it get them in the ground and let the critters get them ready for you to dye them. Have fun and enjoy your season

What dye are you using? And what is the difference in a dip vs a dye?
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Just the black logwood crystals. Too many people get all wound up about wax no wax dye dip paint, None of that stuff matters in making a catch.I could care less how pretty my traps look.

I wax everything due to the fact I use calcium chloride. It helps protect the trap from rusting. I don't get caught up much on dye though. I do dye if I get a light coat of rust on the traps and I'm wanting something to do.

Understandable.

Wax would make sense with calcium chloride. I use waxed dirt so see no reason to wax

Thats why I said self etching primer. Thats all you need, not paint. If it had to be paint I would use a cheap enamel. Self etching primers have some acid in them and bite into the steel better than anything else. Its an extremely tough as nails primer that wont flake or chip off of the metal.

If a guy wanted to go thru the phosphate wash for an etch primer such as DuPont 615s.