I currently take all my chains into Ace for sharpening, thinking of buying a sharpener. Any brands to recommend or do's and don'ts?

I used to use a sharpener... USED TO. Switched to a hand file and will never go back. I can have my saw sharpened and running again in far less time than it would take to remove the chain put on the sharpener, sharpen and reinstall on the saw. Not to mention you can achieve a superior sharpening and increased chain life with a file over a grinder.

What Dana said is also my experience. Especially in regard to getting a better result. Just a file and a guide works best for me. Perhaps one of the Dremel rigs would work but I've never tried one.

Are you thinking about a handheld sharpener our a bench mount type?

I bought an Oregon electric sharpener, and it's a good way to ruin a chain quickly.
Hand filing is the best, although like most things, it's inconvenient and takes longer.

I was thinking bench mount- until I read the replies

I use a Granberg electric hand sharpener when I stone a chain bad and like it. Seems like the bits wear out quick though.

Hand held 12 volt is the way to go. I am on my 2nd one in over 20 yrs. It has a gauge with marks on it, I grind mine at 30 degrees. You can get the little bits off ebay. The little chuck is agravating getting it tight with the little wrench provided. Still I wouldn't go back to my benchtop.

Take some time and learn to sharpen by hand, way better.

WS

I guess I'm odd man out. I used a file and flat gauge for 30 years. Finally bought a cheapo benchtop grinder from Harbor Freight about 5 years ago. They had 'em on special for about $29. Takes all of 3 minutes to take chains off, another 10 minutes to sharpen, and another 4 minutes to put chain back on and tighten. Once all the adjustments are correct, I very much like it. Still use round-file in the field, but really like the bench grinder. Will hopefully never be without again. I've used the same grinding wheel for 5 years. Make sure all adjustments are precise, and you don't wear out your chains. I generally like old-school, but sure like my bench grinder, as do about 10 of my neighbors.

Jack

Stihl 2 in 1 hand file. Pretty fool proof and factory sharp chains. Sharpens the tooth and keeps the rakers filed perfectly in the same motion. This coming from a guy who has tried just about every sharpening gimmick there is out there. Well worth the small investment.

https://m.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/

My biggest grind is that the high-rpm grinding wheel gets the tooth hot and takes the temper out of it. If a guy was super careful about just touching it up instead of really grinding it he might get away with it.

I agree easy to learn and don't need all that other stuff to carry around. JM2¢

A bench mount sharpener can be quite handy at times.
They work well on saw chains that have been badly rocked and need a lot taken off.
Also I've seen a lot of chains that were sharpened 30 degrees on one side and maybe 10 or so on the other side.
Another common problem, one side is filed down way more than the other.
A bench mount sharpener can help correct these types of problems.
For just a normal touch up its hard to beat a good sharp file.
If you do decide to get a bench sharpener, I would get a good quality one, theres lots of generic ones out there, just like everything else you get what you pay for.

I have one like the Oregon model below and wouldn't be without it. Hand filing is fine to touch up in the field but you don't get the consistency without a bench mount. Take it slow and don't get the chain too hot. Often I'll set it to just kiss the higher teeth, take a little off and work around the chain. Then make an adjustment and go around again. I use a pair of calipers to make sure the teeth are the same size on both sides.

Before buying the grinder I would sharpen by hand until they were in poor shape then take them in to a pro. It's natural for you to be more comfortable sharpening one side or the other. That makes for uneven teeth. If your saw won't cut straight, your teeth are not even.

It doesn't surprise me that there are so many on trapperman that prefer to hand sharpen. Overall trappers are a DIY type of group and probably likely to cut corners if there is a nickel to shave. Ask this same question on a woodcutters board and I'd bet the proportions would be significantly skewed the other way.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Oregon-Standard-Bench-Mount-Chain-Sharpener-410-120/106023027?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=6656&adid=22222222227042921400&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=107034903677&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-297389666957&wl5=9033424&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115794440&wl11=online&wl12=106023027&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIibOS87fA4AIVeR-tBh2JRQ9gEAQYASABEgLZD_D_BwE

X2

I don't cut nearly as much wood as a lot of you do but I got one of these and it's much easier and does a better job than my bench style sharpener.

I put mine in a bench vice clamp the bar use a Dremel tool less than 5 minutes not much chain loss.

I sharpen my saw several times throughout the day when I'm using them. Hand sharpening isn't that big a deal once you decide to give it a try. Most teeth are marked with the degree of angle punched into the top of each tooth. I sharpen while the chain is still on the saw. Approximate that angle as closely as you can and give each tooth the same number of strokes. I usually go six stokes per tooth. I use a magic marker to mark the top of the tooth I'm starting on and keep sharpening and advancing the chain until I come around to that tooth again. Turn the saw around and do the opposite teeth.

It's really nothing to be intimidated by. This is probably one of the better sharpening devices I've seen and might be worth looking into. https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/

I don't own one but my buddy has a nice Oregon bench mount. Best thing I have ever used. It will give you a sharper chain than a brand new one just out of the box. Also easy to correct all angles and tooth lengths. I still use a file in the woods if needed but usually just change chains.

You do use the waxy lubricating stick on the wheel don't you ??? Keeps everything cool