I'm currently putting up 2 muskrats & 2 mink that I plan on trying to tan myself. I'm hoping to get a couple weasels as well. Some are gifts for a relative that has helped me out this winter.

Are the home tanning kits safe and easy to work with? I'm leaning towards deciding between Rittles EZ 100 & the orange bottle. I figured I'd start with tanning critters much simpler than the beaver I have in the freezer.

As for the weasels, I may even try to trap some yet that are changing colors. Variation in weasel colors might look cool I figure.

Go with the EZ,if you follow the instructions and have some tanning experience you can get a tan equal to or better than a commercial tannery.

My dad doesn't trap but has some tanning experience and has offered to help.
I've used Great Northern Fur in the past, and while I was satisfied with their work, it gets pricey and I don't like having to wait as long as I had to do for my otter last year.

Dont get the orange bottle crap

x2

Can you tell me why you consider it that?

Mainly because the instructions are a recipe for disaster.

Dangerous? Or just 'all-around' poor directions?

Both

You put so much info in your responses.

I've never heard any negatives about Rittles EZ tan 100.

While I'm unaware of the reasons, I've heard mixed results about the orange bottle.

That's what you get for not asking for details.

I thought the way I asked it in my original post was pretty detailed and clear.

True.

But usually people with absurd opinions try and back them up.

Click the link in my signature and under the taxidermy.net search box type in hide tanning formula/orange bottle and you'll find all you need to know.

Does anyone know how to bring the signature line back? I lost that line when the format of this site changed last year.

Doesn't seem to work on phones. On PCs, make sure show signature is enabled in options.

Ok, yeah I only use tMan on my phone. I guess that explains it.

i personally use the orange bottle works great for all skins

There is not enough information there to do the job properly. Really there have been books written on the subject so I don't know why they expect people to get good results with the 5 step direction on the front of the bottle.

You can get a good soft stretchy tan with the orange bottle but you have to add a few steps and understand a little about the process.

Wonder what books the mountain men and trappers of old read?

Could most of them even read?

Glad its not really as hard as some make it out to be.

I've used the orange bottle for years on everything . Otter, beaver, and deer hides have to have the hides thinned and evened out or they will turn out stiff. My coyotes, coons, skunks, fox, and opossums turn out soft and supple with a nice leather smell. Just made a coon skin hat and it turned out wonderful. Never seen where it could be dangerous and never had any issues with slippage. To each his own I guess.

I had the ears on a yote slip. The cartilage was removed. The paper thin ears lost their hair like ink off a dry erase board.

But the rest of the fur held great.

Too long in the salt solution I guess.

I always dry the fur after the last rinse in water. I snap the hide several times , and hang with a fan blowing . Fur will be completely dry in 8 hrs in a 50*-60* room with 50%-60% humidity. Always avoid wet and warm fur.

Has anyone ever used Rittle's EZ Tan 100 to tan a beaver tail?

I used the orange bottle on a Muskrat and it came out fine.The only down fall is the directions are printed real small.

The kids and I use Ivory Soap to do our tanning, from deer to beaver and have had great results. IMO the final product is a lot better than what the orange bottle puts out, actually better than a lot of things that are out there.

Could you explain the soap method ?

As far as a process, everyone has their own method when it comes to setting the fur/hair, re-hydrating, breaking etc. To each their own, but when it comes to the actual material used to "tan" the hide whether it's hair/fur on or making a skin, the ivory soap is worked up into a paste and applied to the hides as needed. You would have to check the hides periodically as you would if you were tanning using any other method.

When it comes to fur and hair on tans the hide folds in on itself like a "t-shirt" very soft and supple and it has that rich genuine leather feel to it. The hides can get wet and remain in the same manner as before they were wet. I've had that pouch washed numerous times and when it drys, it's still soft and all that other supple jazz it's supposed to be. The prep is vital to any hide, if you don't prep a hide correctly it won't matter what you use, you will have unfavorable results.

Soap is used as a substitute for brain tanning-same process.