Is 3/0 twin loop chain to big for using for drowning rigs with the standard 1" square tubeslider? Just wondering if it will still work properly. I believe the chain is about 3/4" wide.

I believe this is #2 Machine chain.....nice and smooth, no hang ups

We use #2 twin loop. Works good. I'm thinking #3 might be tight.

Thanks guys. I'm gonna try to get out if this high water goes down, but I think its gonna get worse. The water is out of the banks an flooding the fields along it, and a lot of ice jams and ice barges. It looks like something you see on the Alaskan shows.

Be careful

How much do buying chain drowners cost? Who makes them? Would it be cheaper to buy locks an do urselve? What are advantages of chain drowners? What I wouldn't like is weight, especially with lots in pickup

Chain drowners dont tangle up,like wire or cable...fast and easy to reset aftah a catch...lasts for Evah. Great for road side or not too far from road beaver trapping. Down side....is the heavy brake rotor used for weight. There are lighter Go to systems...Ask Goldy on here....he has the hot ,light weight set up.

Why not just stake rebar ? If possible, I lug just a few cement blocks in culvert or few gunny sacks of Rock or sand, but haul around a bunch brake rotors or railroad tie plates an lug them in water an then haul out when done, forget it

Who makes locks for chain drowners or what to use for locks?, Could make some up, the locks, swivels to attach chain to trap an chain is what cost , I don't think going work out to equip all water traps it, I use lil cable but end up not use az much as 11 gauge wire an just cut off ends wire after cpl catches or replace wire, cable is good but can't adjust lengthe

I did my own locks on #2 double loop chain and cement blocks for beaver but I drive in on most of mine otherwise I would use rebar drowners, I don’t like wire or cable because of kinks.

Cement blocks or Brake rotors ....sounds about the same to me. At some of my spots...I just hide the weight at the location....cuz I know I’ll be back at some point.

Study my pic.....you can make the lock out of black pipe....and on my T Bar ...I have a swivel and J hook...so you can take the slack out of the chain.

One piece of advise I’m not sure if nessmuck has had this happen, but on mine this year the “s” hook on the block end spread fortunately I caught it, so I would recommend welding the weight end “s” hook if you use one there.

Would a flat type rebar swivel on the terminal end stake, work ? Or I mean, be large enough j hook or rivet that is on the flat rebar swivel, to hook on chain? It is big enough opening for cable but not sure if enough room for chain, if so, that work, I could use a s- hook tool an take along to open rivet an adjust lengthe, on chain, yes a s- hook is not ideal an could open up on rare occasion, I should have a cpl dz. These drowning rigs

I use the MB Crunch swivels....no problems. I use a pair of tin snips to open the “S” hook on the t-Bar ....then throw the weight to deep water....pound my t -stake in the ground....grab the chain and slide my trap and lock on the chain....pull the chain tight and attach to S hook on the T stake.

Nessy,

is the s-hook at the T-bar necessary? why not just use an open J-hook right at the swivel?

I find a lot of chain that I use for trapping purposes by buying used tire chains at public sales .Often I get several sets of good tire chain for a $1 or so

Bauer locks are by far my favorite and sold by MTP.