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Fruit tree management is very different from hardwood tree management. With fruit trees you want to encourage lateral branching. If you are planting whips, tree tubes might work for a very short while.
Tree tubes are for hardwood trees where you want the tree to grow out of the tube before branching. Tubes work great for that use.
For fruit trees planted for wildlife the best method is to wrap the trunks with a white spiral tree guard from the soil level up to the first lateral branch. Then construct a cage around the tree using fence material that is 2” x 3” at least 60” tall. Use four steel T posts to support the wire. When windy, no part of the tree should rub against the wire.
I have planted more than 1,000 fruit trees and many more hardwoods and conifers. I recommend doing it right or don’t bother.
Do tree tubes also create a beneficial greenhouse type of effect for certain trees?
A customer wanted to plant black walnut trees for lumber as a legacy to help fund the land in the future. We got hybrid trees which are supposed to grow few nuts putting the growth into the tree to mature faster. Out of 150 trees, some were very small, short, and damaged - less than 10. I planted them all the same way in the first week of April. I planted the very small, short, damaged trees too. Staked, fertilizer pellet, and a tree tube. By the end of August all trees had foliage growing out of the tree tubes - even the tossers.
We then had a fence builder put a deer fence around the project. Deer usually nibble walnut trees only when very young. After that the bucks damage them with their antlers. It is a beautiful project.
The trees will require annual pruning to remove ectopic branching until they create their own forest canopy.
The land is in a trust administered by the third generation. The youngest in the family who go there are the fifth generation. At maturity in 80 years using a yield of 40% of the projected board feet at $10 per board foot the value is projected at $380,000.
Leave the wild fruit trees in place, unless they are crowding.
The best solution is the Russian rootstock which is good for 40 below and produces a nice enough pie apple. Otherwise, look online how to sprout apple seeds from the apples you like in the grocery. No matter what the geneticists say, these will breed true enough in the crosses which are out there in the Honeyscrisp, Fuji etc... Two of my best trees are from seedlings, which you just put seeds in a plastic bag, wrapped in a paper towel in the fridge and sprout. Container plant them, protect them, and you will have good apples. A cousin of mine was telling me about the deer eating only the good apples, as they can tell a Haralson from the old pie apples too. By sprouting you get the best lines, and in most locations in Zone 4 south these apples will survive due to Minnesota breeding is the base of numbers of these varieties. The seedlings I have are from a Minnesota crab apple called Chesnut, and they hang on the tree all winter, so the squirrels and deer were feeding on them in 3 foot deep snow.
I advocate everyone to sprout apple seeds and if you have property to put those trees out for wildlife. You will be surprised how many of them will be eating apples. Do not fall of the 'not a good apple" because not good apples are cider apples and you can make wonderful cider from them.
Thanks I'm going to try with some Crab apples I know the deer like
NRA and NTA Life Member www.BackroadsRevised@etsy.com
St Lawrence Nursery in Potsdam, NY. They have the Russian Antonovka apple trees , around $40 for 10 trees around 18”. I planted 10 last spring in northern NY’s snowbelt on Tug Hill, and they tripled in height this summer. I used 32” tree tubes and watered a couple times a week. Antonovaka is what they use for their root stock , good for down to -40 F. I have some that are 14 years old and bear annually with a large yellow to red apple that hangs long into the fall.
And as others have stated, fence with deer fencing or they will not last long.
We have to put a wire fence around our new Apple trees or the deer will mow them off.
Same here with the apples, cedar and white pine. I finally have enough apple trees that they are appearing growing wild. One of my favorite varieties produces an apple about the size of a marble, tend to prefer wet areas and hold the apples until the animals pick them off. I had deer in the yard on and off all day today going from tree to tree. I have a couple trees that I dug up from an old homestead up by Ely and the apples are the size of a baseball but fall off in August and are just mush. The animals still love them.
I have nothing clever to put here.
Re: wildlife apple trees
[Re: 160user]
#7705649 10/31/2210:54 PM10/31/2210:54 PM