I have used angle grinder on closed jaws to make them offset . If I had mill that’s would be my first choice..
welding lug offset doesn’t do anything.. if you grind so the levers come up higher. Just use them as is ..regular jaws !!
For life of me I can’t understand why people can’t figure that out.

Beav I bet couldn’t tell the difference when I grind...I’m serious I worked with one guy that could grind like no other..

Just gonna repost my #3 long spring mod post.

So bout a bunch of Vicor and Blake & Lamb #3's. Most of them had lam jobs all ready done ,but where missing chains,and of course now way to adjust pan tension. So after a few head aches ,some cutting and some grinding I figured out a pretty good way to revamp the Old long springs.

DISCLAIMER : NO, you do not need to do these mods to catch animals. Heck alot of these still had fur in the jaws when I got them. This is simply or those who wish to.

Under Hump Pan Tension.

So with this method were not really fabbing anything. The base trap by the way is a Victor #3 this. Was already laminated before i got it.



So first we need to take the pan off. Easiest way I found is to flip the trap upside down. And wedge open the crimp on the pan. Personally I just use a pair of small cutters. Clamp down and twist . A flat head screw driver works too.




Now put the pan over to the side you'll need it later. Now we gotta got rid of the little bar that the pan crimped too. A hacksaw can work jus fine but I just used a cutting wheel on my grinder. . Takes a whole 30 seconds but try to keep the cut as clean and flush as possible.




Now we're actually going to need to cut this gap down power on the side opposite of the dog. This is goin to allow the pan to drop all the way down in the orientation we're going to put the pan. The white soap stone mark is where were grinding to. Again just using a cutting wheel to make the main cut.




And with a little file work after cutting we should have somthing like this.



Now back to the pan. First we need to close the crimp back.



Next were gonna weld the seam and grind every thing flush. Do t worry about the hole too much where going to redrill it.

Anyhow one we weld our nut into place this is what we should get.



I know those two welds don't looks like much but if you can do a good tack you should be good. I actually had to re do one and it took about 8 minutes of me trying to beat it off with a hammer and punch to realize yeaaah I better get the cutting disk and grinder out lol.

Now we need to go ahead a drill out the nut so your screw and fit.




And here we go. Now I used a lock washer to help with slippage, if your using steel nuts and bolts like me I highly reckoned getting lock nuts. Ither wise the on tension seems to back out much easier than compared to a pan system with the rabbit ear connecting and brass.



Now somthing alot of y'all will like is due to the new pan placement you will automatically get a pan that sits below jaw level. I had a few questions about dogs being too short and I haven't had too many problems with this. That being said you will need to bum the dog up slightly by bending the post foward or back.





I also squared up the dog and added a long nitelatch.

Cast jaw :

New is the cast jaw mod. And yes I understand this IS NOT CAST I simply called it that because it looks like cast. Not this isn't needed but if you have some traps with crooked lams like some of these it's can be a good mod. Now this ISN'T somthi g you want with a weak trap.

First I clamp the springs down with a pair of vice grips on each. Next I wire wheel as much rust off as possible ,espically in the seam between the lams and the jaw.



Mainly what were doing is trying to fill the seam. If done right it should be higher than the jaw and lam surface and should penetrate both. Not it is very important to get good penetration but not to over heat the jaws! So weld a few inches and let it cool down for 30 we ones or so while you brush off the slag. If you do this the springs engaged you have a high possibility of warping the jaws. Also DO NOT QUENCH IN WATER OR OIL it's too can really wrap the jaws. It's better to do two or three traps at a time so you can work on another while one is cooling.



Now if you wanna off set your traps just weld a bubble in the corner of one jaw at the end of the lam and do the same on the opposite jaw. Connect the weld with the seam weld so when we grind every thing down it will look like one solid piece.
Now once the jaws have cooled ,at least till their I little warm I recommend using a flap disk grind the bulk down. Now you wanna stay on the seam weld till everything stars to blend. Grind everything in solid sweeps to help reduce the chances of low spots.

Once it's flushed you should have somthing like this



Make sure to check your off set from time to time. If it's too much grind a little off the bubble or where it hits on the opposite jaw.



I ask like to take a little metal off of this are to widen out the trash gap. Only takes a little on wall four. Also I like to take some off the back side to help the springs swivel better.



Now that that's done I go ahead and round the jaw edges. And for that this little sander is worth every penny ! I can also smooth under the jaws to the point everything is smooth as silk !



Sorry no picture of the trap we worked on after finding the edges but kers a duke 1 3/4 to show what you can do.




And just wanna show where I take metal off the back.





Offset baseplate:

Last thing is gonna be an offset baseplate . If hou prefer to have baseplated long springs. It don't like having sore knees this is somthing you should looks at. I make mine with 20d nails with my trappers bender tool. These give you the side pull torque that your get off of a spring mounted chain but not as extreme and you also get easier setting than a standard base plate.




And here three of our finished products with a nice fresh paint job !

Sorry,a #3 frame. I know the mb 450 jaws for a duke 1.5 frame with a little work. If you can get them to fit into a #3ls frame should just be a deal of tweaking the springs

I've milled in offsets with a milling machine (Bridgeport)

I've ground in offsets with an angle grinder

Both ways came out great

That being said....if someone wanted to do a large quantity like 200, I'd sell the regular jaw traps and buy offsets
unless you have alot of time on your hands

Good Luck

What the OP needs to tell us Are offsets required where he traps. If not go out and set those traps just like they are.

I'm not the OP but see he is in Oklahoma. Yes offsets are required for double spring traps in Oklahoma. Currently the law doesn't say how much of an offset but I have heard that a proposed law will require at least 1/8" offset. Currently even a #1 double coilspring or a #11 longspring is not legal unless offset.

Thank you.