Have a red fox with a green belly. Want to have it tanned. What is the best way to handle it?
Thanks

I use purple power. Spray it on before and after fleshing if needed. It takes out most to all of the green and stops further taint. It wont reverse damage, so you may still get slipping after tanning.

Rub bleach on the green area after fleshing then borax .

Good grief don’t ever use bleach or borax. You can’t undo damage, but get it salted ASAP and hope.

Bleach works great It kills the bacteria and your good to go and It won't harm the skin. I just spray It on the effected parts and then wipe It off after a while. And for the most part green belly Isn't the big deal some seem to think It Is.

X2

Although green belly can be serious it is not a serious defect until it turns really dark brown or black, then you will start to see some slippage of fur. I often had coyotes hanging for 2-3 days (even 5) in the shop at 40 - 60 degree F temperature with no problem. The initially frozen coyote in this picture was hung face down for 5 days and was perfectly fine re fur slippage. If you’re worried about it, wiping the area with vinegar or 3% hydrogen peroxide solution will kill the bacteria causing the rot.

Most of the time the fur wont slip until you tan the skin. Green belly is taint black is rot. Bleach is very caustic and should not be used on the skin.

Well It works for me so I guess I'll keep using It.

1/4 bleach 3/4 h20. lightly spray the affected area and let it dry. If smell continues repeat. Works for me

You use Borax for taxidermy I know, I use it on different animals and birds .They started to use borax in place of Arsenic because it was killing too many people .You can tell by the smell of animals that was used on

Where do you get your information from? Maybe you can enlighten us bleach and borax users??

Dry it asap.

Agree.

Salt and dry ASAP

Salt will ruin a hide if you plan on selling It through the auction system and I'm sure no country buyer will touch them.

I just stretch and dry green belly like any other hide. It is the belly souring, and discoloring the hide/saddle. If the hide is rotting the hair will slip, known as taint. I don't believe the bacteria can work any damage when dry?

1/3 bleach, 2/3 vinegar here in a dollar store spray bottle... no problems to date.

I put borax powder on the skin side of all my fox, bobcats, and coyotes. Before the sale, I also clean all the fur with borax powder. I also know a lot of other trappers that do the same thing. I don't know anyone who has had issues with it. Ive even received some of the highest prices on my cats using this method.

Why are you boraxing the skin side? Skipping the flip?

preventative maintanance???

Yep. When its 60 degrees and dry in the winter, you cant really do skin out. Dries way to quick and is a pain to flip. rub borax on it, put it on the stretcher, and youre done.

Your fur may look great to both you and the grader, however the true quality of preparation cannot be determined until it has been drummed and dressed. Buyers have reported up to 15% spoilage from improper handling. Using borax to skip the flip is a major part of this problem, thus the auction houses and processors do not recommend it. You can also be assured the buyers allow for this anticipated spoilage in the price they pay for the pelts.

If your drying temperature is 60F you should have little problem, but if pelts are drying quickly just turn them sooner. If they do get to dry just re-hydrate with a damp towel 10-15 minutes and you should have little problem turning. Don't worry about putting the re-hydrated pelt back on the board fur out. The re-hydrated skin dries very well and quickly, unlike a green skin against wood.

i have always used hydrogen paroxcide. take towl and treat it once then just watch through out the day and apply more as needed it will take it away.

i have always used hydrogen paroxcide. take towl and treat it once then just watch through out the day and apply more as needed it will take it away.

M Magis is a taxidermist and knows what he is talking about.I have been one for 50 years and every hide I prep and send to the tannery gets salted twice.When a taxidermist sends out a hide,he is the end user and he to work with that skin.Every single skin has to come back,not only with hair but good stretch and durability.Salt is the best way.I can't remember a green belly,treatexthis way that didn't survive the tanning process,rehydration and mounting.

Salt may work, but the fur market (not the tannery) won't like it.

I believe they have a good reason they don't want salted hides mixed in with unsalted.

Yes, if it's going directly to the tannery definitely salt it. If to the fur market use no salt, just dry the pelt.

Exactly but he is only talking about sending to the tannery.

The reason buyers don't want salt isn't because it doesn't work but it shrinks a green hide (till it is tanned) and measuring hides is vey unreliable.Salt also whitens the flesh side so a buyer cannot tell if it is "blue,white or inbetween).It would be a nightmare for buyers and trappers.

When a hide is sent to a tannery,it doesn't matter what size it appears to be or what color the flesh side is.

Maybe i'm wrong but I have always used bleach, Never had a problem

Ive never had an issue with it and have never been docked money for using borax. I’ve been told from the buyers that it’s fine to use borax to both help dry the skin and to clean the fur. Ill take the advise on the people bidding on my fur over anything.

I use a 50/50 mix of bleach and water in a spray bottle. I spray as soon as the green belly is exposed while skinning and then again after fleshing. I have never had a problem. If you let the green belly turn black you will have a problem.
I use borax on my cats to take the grease out of the fur. I blow it out with an air compressor when I am finished. Fur buyers are not overly impressed when they give the hide a good snap and borax comes tumbling out.

I have sold im guessing a dozen skins every year for over 40 years with salted green bellies at auctions and traveling buyers never had a word said about it. I have also salted green bellies sent them to Moyles and they came back great. I have done my own tanning and salting the skin is always done.

"Salt should not be used because it attracts moisture." From NAFA pelt handling manual. For the raw fur market.

If that salt from your hide gets on other non-salted hides and attracts moisture, could be a problem for the non-salted hides.

It does attract moisture. I have had dry salted bear hides become damp again from high humidity.

Well maybe because very low humidity in Wy and western states I have always shipped big game capes and bear hides through the mail and the taxidermist and tanneries always tell you to salt them till dry. We have several guys that use to buy deer and elk hides here and you brought in your hide and they literally shoveled salt on the hide with a grain shovel. they had them on pallets to let the moisture run off. I think it is your humidity in Alaska but never had a green belly slip unless it was slipping before skinning and even then it stopped further slipping after salting