Ok who sells the 660 Superbear body grip trap kits? I'm only looking for the kits to make my own & I'm not interested in buying any 660's already made.
Thanks

They are simple enough to make without a kit. I've modified several of my 330's and have had no problems with them.

Watching this thread.

Moosetrot

I bought 2 kits years ago and made 2, each kits come's with the 4 rods, new HD wide trigger, and new dog. But I can't seem to find anybody who sells them now.

They stopped making the kits, I bought some years ago and tried to find more a couple years ago and that was what I found out.

I gave up looking for new oldstock . Rich Kasper sold out but to whom, and will they still sell kits.

I've made 9 or 10 now from 24" to my biggest 29" using New Belisles

I have enough for now. But its really only the larger steel rod drilled out at both ends that I need to make more.

Short one

Longer one
They Close tight

I'm a little skeptical of these 660s, pretty much unheard of in Canada. Seems a little gimmicky or maybe an easy way out of setting a 330 properly. What say you experienced ones?

Boco won't touch one

But all Traps have their Place on the line.

Plus they're fun!

Definitely not a gimmick. Nor a replacement for poor placement of a 330. Kind of specialized for use on wide runs, culverts, tall narrow if used sideways. Anyone who has trapped beaver more than a minute knows there's that one spot on every job that needs something different. Sometimes that's a 660.

Correct

The reason I'm asking is because they work awesome and I'm looking to put a few more on my line.

I used hardened rod the same size as the 330 and cut to length. Standard cold rolled steel is too soft and will bend when you make a catch. 3/8" brake line ID is the same size as the OD as the conibear so you will need to cut 8-2" pieces. Cut the trap and insert the brake line pcs. Insert the new rods into the brake line but do not forget to put the trigger back on. Braze everything together but make sure the joints are centered. I found some stiff electric fence wire that is perfect for replacing the trigger. Made two last year and might make a few more, I like the idea of drilling out the ends but don't have means to do so, that's why I use the brake line.

Great trick 20 scout. You have a picture of those? Or a tutorial?

I like political sign metal rods for my 660 + traps

Would really like to see a pic, 20Scout. I am wondering, though, if the heavier rod normally used on the 660, adds to the overall closing power and speed of the trap.

Moosetrot

^^what he said

perfect for closing off a 3 ft opening or use 2 at a 5-6 ft opening
also
vertically in a narrow run that's 2-4 ft deep

Does anyone have any new old stock kits that they would be willing to sell? Please PM me if you do thanks.

https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthr...ep-channeling-660-beaver-adc#Post5470543

Deep channeling. * may 2016 The thread is up on the forum now.

Contact Nick at RBG traps...he has a version of this trap 1022

They also work great on square shy beaver .

The Duke was my first attempt and works but it just seems a bit bulky although it does close tighter this way. The Belisle is my second attempt with the splice. Both methods allow you to use the original trigger but I replace the wire. The Duke is 15" now and the Belisle is 18". Both have caught and held beaver without any issues.
Moosetrot, anytime you add mass you also add drag. So to answer your question, yes there would be some perfomance issues but so far they haven't been large enough for me to notice. You just need to make sure the danger zone is clear of debris as such that might be a problem.