I cut out a section of sod the size I need to set two traps back to back. About ( W 4" x L 8" ) right over the selected tunnel. Once I set the two traps fixed with braided wire tethers I push a tether wire thru both tether loops with a flag on top to anchor both traps and the flag marks the set up. Replace the sod to cover the tunnel cut out to keep out light and air flow. Move on.

To check each location I just pick up the sod plug that sits over the run and check for the traps to be fired. I then move on to the next flag etc. Very fast and effective. No digging up the traps or digging of any dirt. I rarely set in bare ground conditions most always in a sod lawn. When I pulled the traps I simply re place the cut out sod back over the run and step it down to engage with the soil once again so there is no lawn growth disruption.

Jason to prevent dig unders as you are experiencing at times Simply cut some luan plywood in narrow strips the width of your mole run and push them down into the tunnel bottom and push a little tunnel dirt/sand over the piece of luan and set your trap on top of the insert with adequate dirt cover to allow bedding of your traps.

Cut your luan pieces about two inches longer then your Trapline traps length.

I drill a hole the size of a 16 penny nail width into the center of the luan piece and then run a 16 penny nail down thru the hole and press the luan piece into the tunnel run to hold it into place.

This will prevent the dig unders. Once you have done this a few times it comes very easy the next time around you need to do it. I usually don't share my personal training tips on line but here is one that should help you. I always carry a few cut luan pieces and nails when and if I run into those odd ground conditions up North where we trap.

If you run into poor ground conditions like sandy, non sodded or mulch bed areas I also carry cut out pieces of heavy plastic or weed block fabric with landscape pins to cover my trap setting incisions to block out the light and air flow. I cut out these plastic sheeting or fabric pieces large enough to do a good cover job of the set up area. I have used roof shingle pieces also if I have them. I have also used bricks or the right size stones lying about the job site if necessary.

Thanks. Good info

I have a question for those that sometimes use the old vertical plunger spike style traps: how do you like to set the adjustable pan? I catch a lot with these traps, but I do get misses & would like to reduce those misses. I just missed 1 on a run that I feel like I should not have missed it. Maybe sometimes they get hit but get away, I don't know.

Bob:
If I cut the luan 2 inch longer than the trap. Do I want the extra 2 inches on the spring end or the tong end of the trap.? Also do you insert the luan on top of the soil and cover it up or push the laun under the soil in the run?
Thanks for all the good information!

I place the extra length extending out from the jaw end of the trap. That is your approach to the trap and the direction the mole is entering the trap set position. That is where there dig under reaction is determined.

In some cases you may need to experiment with a longer length however that is the length I have determined works well for my trapping in our soil conditions. I scrap or dig out a bed for the luan to get it below the tunnel grade and also allows me to cover with the soil or sand to allow good bedding of the trap. Our soil is dense but sand may allow easier positioning of the insert so you may find it much easier to bed the insert then with heavy loam soil. Just make sure you pin the insert down well to anchor it as needed.

You can also experiment with placing the insert on a slope a little deeper on the jaw side of the trap. That will help better guide the mole up into the jaws more easily.

I believe some don't bed the front of the trap jaw frame deep enough and the moles detect the lower jaw frame first or the jaws are not aligned properly in the center of the mole tunnel.

Then they perceive this as a blockage of some kind and choose to divert their travel route under and away from the obstruction. Most all moles will choose to dig under an obstruction rather then go up and over it. I have had a few that have done the dig up and over behavior over the years but the dig under reaction is the higher percentage by far.

Thanks for the information Bob. I will sure give it a try.

I found that using wire tethers on traplines can cause dig unders, I very early on changed them over to braided nylon that we use for ferret net draw cord.
When you use wire sometimes when you pin the tether down with a wire flag/maker pin when you back fill the soil packing it down too hard it causes the trap to twist or lift even if you bed the front down as instructed, meaning the mole finds the trap, packs it with soil or digs under it. As the nylon braided cord is very flexible you don’t disturb the taps set when you backfill.
My tethers are about5 inch long and also allows me to thread them onto a bar to hang in my moving bucket without them all getting tangled.

I bought 50 mole whackers today from Viking. Looks like he took advantage of victors brain fart. Excited to get them and try them out.

Joey - Please get back to us once you get a chance to try them out. My main interest would be their use along foundations and privacy fences. Their built in setters might pose a problem regarding sets that hug these type of main mole runs. Spring strength, of course, would also be a big interest. They seem to be all galvanized steel and USA made according to their website. Good luck with them. Let us know please.

Thanks for the info Joey. Just ordered a doz. I have a mole in my own yard that will be the new trap test subject. He has been getting on my bad side. Lol

How about this, I’ll make a YouTube video review and post it when I’m done.

They shipped today and I have a mole job scheduled for whatever day they arrive. I’m out of good victors at the moment. I wish I could do something with the couple dozen junk ones I have. I’d feel bad even giving them away lol.


As far as the built in setters being a problem against structures, worse case scenario I cut them off a few of them and use victor setters. I always have an angle grinder in the truck.

Got my Vikings today Joey. Interesting little trap. Raining a bunch tonight so it might be a day or two before I set them out.

I like it. I don’t think it is as strong as the old OOSs. I set a dozen yesterday. Will update you all this weekend. The trigger is definitely more sensitive. It will set off under its own weight which the OOSs don’t do (at least mine don’t). Which means it doesn’t need to be planted in the ground.

I think a solid method going forward is to use an OOS to cut the trench for the jaws and then setting the whacker in it.

Looking forward to the update. Yep not as strong but the jaws are thinner so maybe it doesn’t have to be? We’ll see. Kinda wish it had a safety hook like the oos.

I set 3 of the whacker traps yesterday. Got my first 6 in this week. So far I like them. A little different setting with built in setters after used to using the OOS. Mine were a touch sensitive like you were saying Joey, not a bad thing necessarily . Not as robust feel as the OOS but time will tell, if they don't break like the new junk OOS and they catch moles that's all I care about. Price point very reasonable.

Success.

Had one set off with nothing as well.

Will put video together tomorrow if time allows.

WTG Joey!!! I got one set today in the mud.

Well my one and only mole set got one. I’ll set up a job with these Vikings on wed.

Alright. I’m sold.
Was a much better catch than it looks but it fell out a bit when pulling it from the ground. Trap had been there since last Wednesday and it’s rained quite a bit since then.