Anyone got their hands on some ? Seems they could be the next sterlings

Never seen or heard of them before, but they look awesome! Who makes them? How much? Jaw spread?
Thanks.

Spoke with one trapper that speaks very highly of them...they look stout.

Me either. When did rhey come out?

A guy named Charlie Fite makes them. He supposedly has a Facebook account. There was a thread on Wildness Trapping about his wolf trap on 12-21-20. That's all I can find.

He does have a FB page and there are a few pics of similar traps but no other info about the traps. One of the pics is of a Gotcha Wolf instead of a Gotcha Yote.

There is a wolf trapper in Montana on youtube who uses some of his Fite's wolf traps and speaks highly of them. I think he even gives a way to contact Charlie but that is going off of memory of seeing the video.

to much exposed parts to be an everyday yote or wolf trap (long wire rod or wire holding pan and looks like a wire dog system)both wouldnt hold up to big yotes fighting a trap

Lots of moving parts, google a video of Harris Centerfire waxing problems. Wax gets in those moving parts and causes them not to work right, have to take the trap apart after waxing and clean. That says to me that other stuff might cause the same issues. I'll stick to simpler traps, even if you have to deal with different pan tension on different points on the pan.

Well made, but in my opinion the solution is worse than the problem.

Oops, this was supposed to go in the Harris trap thread.

Bad info anyways, you don't have to disassemble the Harris trap to clean wax from the moving parts. Only wax you need to remove is where the notches and where the notches contact the jaws. You cycle that pan up and down a few times after waxing and it's good to go. Kim and I had a discussion on this at the NTA last week. Guys can make it as complicated as they want, but no need to disassemble the whole pan system. It's not really a complicated setup on the Harris trap. There's also only one pan tension adjustment on the Harris trap. You don't adjust pan tension from the bolt beneath the pan, only on the pivot bolt near the jaw, just like on any other trap.

I would agree with bearcat on the lots of moving parts and keeping the trap simpler. Seldomfales had a nice video out, exposing a problem with the Harris trap. I believe the mechanism under the pan was getting bent out of whack after a few catches and then it was tough to get the trap to set when pulling up on the pan.

You can go to Seldom Fales, see his video on Harris traps, he just put it back up on You tube. Also on Jake traps.

To bad there are so many guy on u tube that like the sound of there own voice.
19 coyotes this spring out of 6 harris traps I throw the bs flap on on bent parts . But I do use a 12 ft. Of chain on a drag.

I generally agree and very seldom watch videos, but I did watch the one on Harris traps when researching Kim's wolf trap. I can't comment on their reliability because I haven't used the Harris traps. But after checking them out in person and looking over all the moving parts, I wasn't interested. To me it looks like something that is overengineered and will work great when new and clean, but there is a lot more to go wrong as they get age and use on them. But the main reason I veered away was all those moving parts in close proximity in freeze/thaw and snow sets. Maybe you won't have a problem with them, but I was looking for wolf traps that will be used a lot in snow sets and a lot of freeze/thaw conditions, and the less contact between moving parts and the more distance between them the less likely to have them froze down and not functioning.

Yes I agree it's a little over done , and I do not wax traps, because unless you change out each trap as it catches , (I do not) the critter will knock off most of the wax and dye in most case in my experience.
I guess those are some of reasons I use victor Monty type traps..
The wolf trap are big unless trapping in deep deep snow imo unneeded.

I am often trapping in several feet of snow, so I guess that qualifies as deep, deep snow. Honestly once you start setting on snow rather than in the dirt under the snow all that matters is how much is over the trap. Which is where the big jawspread really helps. Early season, dirt trapping that big jawspread is unnecessary, and I have some smaller traps that work just fine then, but I prefer when buying new traps now to buy ones I can use all year rather than having to buy two sets, one for early season and one for later season. I've had issues with freezing on MB750 and 650 traps with the plethora of moving parts, particularly on the bottom of the trap, so I am leery of a trap with lots of underpan, close fitting moving parts. I do believe the Harris has more powerful springs, which is very helpful in coming up through the crust.

So does a Alaskan 9 for spring strength, so Montana gets several ft. Of snow fall also . A wolf can be push or moved into the timber very easy without any problems or side effects

Yup, Alaska 9 and KORO are in a class by themselves as far as wolf traps, but we probably should lay off discussing other brands of wolf traps in a coyote trap thread.

I find the hardest part of wolf trapping is getting in front of them.
Next challenge is thinking they got some voodoo to them they are bullies they are the biggest bades in the woods. There smart I'll give them that but not close to a close to coyote as hard to catch., because they are bullies. They are not scared or paranoid as a coyotes are. I catch your typical wolf in cat sets all the time. Do not get wowed by magical guys proclaiming that wolf is more than they are just a animal.
Good sets in front of them, something that stops wolf . On location will catch wolves.
I have caught the same wolf 3 times In force sets for example. (How do I know because of collar that was put on her the first she was caught.
Remember to think about how long nose to where the feet are.
Hope this helps
Red