Crossed threads are better than no threads. Get out the 1/2" impact and hammer it home.

I use the aluminum based stuff on boats and the copper based goop on everything else.

what we use at work for injection mold repairs

went to work on the brakes on my 2004 GMC 1500 Saturday.

and then I went to the store to replace the T55 bit I shattered with the 1/2 inch impact

I also sat and hammered and hammered on the 18mm caliper bracket bolts with the 1/2 inch impact

then I sprayed it all down with Kroil and put the wheeel back on , I have plenty of pad left but they are making noise so I figured pull the caliper pins and lube them and clean it all up and get ti to quite down

plan to spray it every other day and then try again this weekend

I sure wish they assembled with anti seize last time at 137K could they be the original brakes , seems doubtful

I keep a bottle each of the copper and nickel based around the house... I don't remember what I paid... Probably $50-$60 invested in both bottles. But that's chump change compared to the heartburn from a seized spark plug snapping off.

Several years back the contractor I worked for had a gig at a chemical plant, nitrogen products. All the conduit was aluminum IMC. We used the nickel anti-sieze and it was a life-saver for allowing you to disassemble runs later on to add/change things.

Mike

Psh. 1" two-hander really gets it done. 1" is too much even for truck tires IMO. I settled on a 3/4 and just let it rattle a little longer.

Knew a guy that buttered up and guys ladder stand rungs with the copper stuff. Heard he set up a stand to cut him off so he smeared him up pretty good when he crawled up before daylight

Rear brakes? Those caliper bracket bolts are held in with yellow loctite. Put a long box wrench on them and beat the wrench with a 4 pound hammer. Those are stupid tight.

I knew a guy having a tiff with the sale barn next door to him. He came looking for some skunk-based coyote lure. He smeared it around the sale ring and that seemed to solve the problem.

Types of Anti Seize should be matched to the metal type used on. Iron / steel can often use either. Used on bolts or threads that are removed often, or for adjustments like Acme threads, it will wear the threads out. Adding grease to Anti Seize is ok it's often made with a grease base. Fine machine threads need a very fine grade. A often overlooked product that is used off label and works well on a lot of threads, and includes a thread lubricant, is Teflon pipe thread sealant. Prevents corrosion into threads, is removable and does not have the fine copper or aluminum dust mixed with grease that wears threads. In blind holes, too much Anti Seize will hydraulicly blow out the threads with enough torque.

I use the chapstick tubes from loctite. Much cleaner than the bottles.

I have known guys that mixed it with STP oil treatment. There are places to use it and places not to. I do not use it on anything that needs torqued as it gives a false reading.

front brakes

the rears get used so little on this truck with the way the proportioning valve is set and the way I drive they may last for ever

I rotated tires and it seems much of my noise is road noise from the tires , the brakes and hubs spun fine by hand and are not showing any indication it is the hub.

I will probably keep putting penetrating oil on them I am not in a big rush to work on it now in my drive way with snow on the ground. my concern was making sure I wasn't wearing pads with a bad caliper or having a bad hub bearing bit neither appear to be an issue

amazing how 20 degrees changes your priorities

Good stuff but hate people smearing it all over lug nuts!

You just need to buy a good impact wrench Pete.

Most manufacturers use loc-tite on the fronts also. They're suppose to be tight.

I admit it is 25 years old but it was the Best the Matco truck had to offer in 1996 when I last turned a wrench for $ my son has it at his new job turning a wrench for $ till he can afford his own he just started Monday and it seems to still be keeping up there

I never seem to have a problem with lug nuts I think part of my problem with the 18mm ones was I had to use an adapter from 1/2 to 3/8 because I didn't seem to have a 18mm 1/2 inch drive 6 point impact stupid set was missing it and I think I lost to much torque in the adapter.

I have a 18mm 6 point 1/2 inch drive now also so I will give it a go later

Those with Torx heads we bust loose with a breaker bar first, then use an impact wrench Pete. Even the best Torx bits won't stand for impact wrenches at full power. (very long anyhow)

Anti-seize on hot bullet moulds, works very well. It helps prevent galling from the sprue plate. Elvis Ammo demonstrates it,,, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrfssNDa7OY

interesting I have always used 2 stoke oil applied with a qtip

" Keep it lubed , keep it happy "