I used Victor NO. 4's and NO.3 jumps , as that's all that was around at the time 50 years ago .
I love double long springs as they can be set on your knee.
If I was trapping today , I'd still use them , but would like to try the bigger traps of today .

So I've never used a dls. Everyone says you can set them over your knee. How do you do it with a 50 lb beaver in one? Especially if your down in the water? Thanks in advance

Just pull the beaver up on land .
Why would it be in the water ?
I've always used drown sets , and pull them on to shore .
Used to set 330's while in the water as the stake was where it was wired to , sometimes , but mostly pulled them to shore also .
Beaver like anything else is lighter while in the water .
But you just pull the trap up , put your knee on the beaver if you have to , break the springs both at the same time .
Jaws drop open , use your thumb to hold the jaw close to you , and then use your hand to hold it open while you set the dog .
Once set , pull the springs to the dog side and set it where you want it .

When you break a double longspring over your knee if it is built like the Victor or Blake and Lamb the spring eyes are big enough to let them bend down past the baseplate some, which creates a lot of leverage and you can hold them compressed very easily, you simply stick one spring behind your other leg and it is very easy to hold compressed, hold the other spring with one hand while setting the dog with the other. Newhouses and my Sleepy Creek 4 1/2s do not break over like that and are much harder to set over your knee. I've used a couple other old brands like Triumph that were built like the Victors, I've never had ahold of a Bridger or Duke longspring so I don't know how they are designed.

As far as doing it in the water with a beaver in it, obviously not as easy as setting the trap empty, but it really isn't that hard, all you have to do is heft the beaver high enough to get the trap over your knee. If the beaver's foot doesn't come out when you compress the springs (mine have teeth, so the occasionally don't) you just stick one spring behind your other leg and you have one hand free to pull the beaver's foot out. But I'm with OW, I usually pull them onto shore or the dam.

That's right , the springs will go below the trap frame , and it's easy to hold the jaws open with your thumb , while you work your hand to get a good hold .
It almost locks the springs shut .

Dad’s old #4 victor, still getting it done under the ice. Learned to use 30 years ago.

mb750

Yes!!!

The Duke 850 sound good but if set by hand, a trap setter need at $20, unknowen if fit other big coil spring traps , the setter

Not hard to build a good setter

There was a guy years ago that claimed he used Victor #2 coils for beaver and had good success. I never tried it but they are cheap enough traps. Maybe use 2 together at the set?

I wouldn't do that^^^

If you think about it though,,, lets say you spend $100, you get 4 MB750s or 20 #2 Victor Square Jaws - (both used trap prices)... so if a guy who knew to set 20 #2's for front foot catches on drowners (obviously), and the same guy who knows how to sets 4 MB750s for the entire season. With all else being equal, the guy would catch a lot more beavers in the #2's over the course of the season.

[/quote]
If you think about it though,,, lets say you spend $100, you get 4 MB750s or 20 #2 Victor Square Jaws - (both used trap prices)... so if a guy who knew to set 20 #2's for front foot catches on drowners (obviously), and the same guy who knows how to sets 4 MB750s for the entire season. With all else being equal, the guy would catch a lot more beavers in the #2's over the course of the season. [/quote]

Since you put it that way, I can see your point. I’d give it a go.

I wouldn't recommend old square jaw victor 2 coils for beaver trapping, , besides if everything but beaver is closed, u got be set a beaver size trap to observe the law

I certainly wouldn't say they are the best beaver foothold, but on a tight budget I think you could make a case for them. The thin jaws that people hate for coyotes, would be beneficial for holding a front foot of a beaver, I'd add a lot of swivels though so you didn't get twist outs.

Was trapping muskrat in southern Ohio years ago , set a NO. 1 LS on a muskrat house .
I had a first year beaver in it the next morning .
Had fun letting it go , it really wasn't that hard to do .
I personally wouldn't use anything smaller than a NO. 3
Not saying a NO. 2 wouldn't work , just that it's not made for that job .

I think I can still rember them long ago when fox trapping an coyotes increasing , jaws get torn out on some

There isn't any laws saying what size trap you have to use to trap beaver. Of course I wouldn't recommend a #2 size trap, but they are perfectly legal. I've caught and held several beaver in 1.5 dukes over the years in fishstick sets. Not ideal or recommended but they held.