Phil Patchin from SASK. did demos of fleshing over the knee at the NTA's back in the 90's.
Bush trappers and Native women flesh rough skinned beaver same way.It is a very old method.
Works well on lots of species-otter,wolf bear etc.
The knife is a victorinox 5 inch skinner.

I rarely flesh a beaver.- learn to clean skin and scrape when on the board-save time-skin once not twice.

Boco, I’m gonna try to clean skin one for you next week.

Should be entertaining. Lol.

Boco is that the same knife that you thinned down and use for skinning ?

Phil Patchin is another awesome beaver skinner/flesher. He worked his butt off his whole life-enjoyed seeing him flesh beavers and talking to him. Thousands of beavers put up/processed to his credit. These guys just aren't going to be replaced sadly.

I use a few different ones but,yes the 5 inch victorinox is a go to knife for clean skinners around here.
The Frost is also popular with clean skinners,very similar to the vic,but slightly less sweep to the blade-steel and size is the same.I find the F dick is a good one for bigger beaver. I had a knife custom made to my own specifications by Ron Post.All have thin deep blades for quick touch up.

USMC,there is a learning curve to clean skinning.
If you have a chance to watch a couple different clean skinners in action it will help immensely.There are several different techniques to clean skinning.

Couple of tips-use a real sharp knife with a nice curve to the blade,and start with a fat LM or LG size beaver. Cool the beaver before skinning so the fat is stiff.Pull the skin straight up and push the knife straight down.Let the carcass roll out of the hide as you go.You will need a trough or two tether hooks to hold the carcass at the correct orientation while skinning.
Small beaver and XXL beaver are not the best when learning.

Agreed, a sharp knife, I like one with a rounded tip. And another knife with a sharp point for splitting up the middle and doing around the head. I usually have at least three knives when skinning beaver, my main knife never touches hair (splitting or around the tail), doesn't do the head, or the legs where it might touch bone. This way it stays sharp longer for clean skinning. I have always used tethers, never tried a trough.

Good info. Thank you, sir.

He mentioned a couple of times that they wash all their beaver hides, but no other details. Anyone else wash beaver hides?

I use a shop vac to get the loose stuff . Anything left goes to the tanner .

When I take beaver out of the boat I swoosh them around in the water at the boat ramp before I throw them into the pick up.

My clean skinning starts with chopping off feet with a cleaver then placing beaver in a trough. I use a small paring knife to split it up the middle and on each side of the vent. Then a different knife ( a small Dunn beaver skinner) to peel the first 3-4" on each side of the belly slit. Then with the paring knife I expose the castors and pull them out and hang them. Also take out oil sacs ready to freeze. Next I use a 5" Caribou beaver skinner with a nice sweep to it and work up and down the carcass turning the beaver in the trough as I go. I go all the way across the back shaving down the shoulders and tail area where needed. Then I flip the beaver over and finish up the small 3-4" strip remaining on the other side. The head is the last thing done with another knife I use just for the heads, (one easily touched up with a steel).

So I'm using a total of 4 knives. Just in the last couple of years I switched to a Caribou for the main clean skinning job and really like it.

The more you do the bigger your knife strokes will be as you gain confidence. There will start to be "ah ha" moments when you start feeling it. Then it really speeds up.
One caveat, I find that conibear bruises in the leather will tend to have a knife dig in, so slow down around those and be a little more careful.

That's all I have done as well, but in the video is sounded like they were washing after skinning and fleshing. Just curious about that process.

My trough has a swiveling base which helps out when you need to flip the beaver over. Good video Les.

I havent graduated to a more high tek model, lol, but that is the second one of them I built, it is made so blood/moisture can drain down through it though.

I liked my swiveling trough so much I did the same for my put-up table and love it! Pound nails in and rotate the table.

Rotating table...I like that idea too, and would be nice for a cramped working area like I have...when I am not just working outside in the springtime.

This the knife you are talking about?
https://cdn.nexternal.com/sibs/images/Victorinox-5-In-Beef-Skinning-Knife-40535.jpg

Thats what I have too. Sure makes it easy to stand in one place and tack out.