My advice with any safe is to put it in the basement- during a fire it will end up there anyway.
I've been involved in UL testing of gun safes and home safes for fire, attack testing and impact testing.
A lot of great points above- just understand what you want the safe to accomplish- theft and fire have different testing and UL requirements and different price points. A lot of low-end safes have gypsum interior walls that do not fill the voids or offer the same benefits as Portland cement filled safes- utilizing cement for a fire barrier is preferred because it maintains hydration in the manufacturing process.

For fire protection- look for 2 hr fire protection- as soon as the oxygen is sucked from the room the fire moves on- it's a waiting game.
Attack test- RSC is classed as Residential Security Container- surviving 5 minutes of intense tampering
TL-15 gives you 15 minutes
TL-30 gives you 30 minutes
The intense tampering is whatever the UL Technician chooses - crowbars, sledgehammers, etc.
Impact- Safe is dropped from 30' onto rip rap or concrete surface within 2 minutes of passing the fire test- replicating a 3 story drop without the door opening.

Nothing but problems with my Liberty w/ keypad entry...

My dad's has a dial and he can't get into it. He plans on taking it outside and cutting it open. The company sent him new parts but will only tell a locksmith where b to drill it. The locksmith is within about 130$ of what he Pais for the safe. I made the appointment the locksmith did not show up he said the heck with it. Dials can fail also.

This^^^ all the way. Invest!!!

Also think about its location in the home, the Floor and strength under it. It's Spot.

I saw a crime show (real crime ) where robbers came in with a tow rope and put it around the Safe- threw the truck end through a window they broke and Pulled the safe out through the WALL.

Layers of different metals and materials are what makes it difficult to cut or torch your way through a safe. Also when buying a safe do not check the door for thickness, check the back, that is where the thinest protection will be. Also if they are fire protected they will have a heat sensitive seal around door frame. If you need to move a safe, three pieces of 3 in. pvc pipe will make it a 2 man job. I also put mine up on 4 in. blocks in case of water line breaks etc.

Got 4, bigger is better, do a lot of research on your own and electronic locks are easy to defeat and fail often.

Be hard to cut thru brick . Plus mines anchor to floor. Mine has holes in the bottom for 4 concrete anchor bolts . Then water proof plugs over them

Mine is Bolted to our floor

Thanks for all the info. Looks like I need to do some more research.

Another Fort Knox owner. Pay close attention to fire ratings. Two manufacturers may have the same time exposure, but the external and internal rise in temperature may vary significantly.

When u go to move it , put golf balls under neath it, u can roll n turn it any way u want.

Anyone ever try to beef up the fire rating on their safe? I was thinking of laying up a block wall around mine and pour a concrete slab over top. Just not sure what to do for the door area.

You could easily box it in with steel studs and Fire Shield Drywall Type X. In new construction- I prefer a vault door with a gun room for the same reasons mentioned above on space- poured concrete walls and ceiling, doubles as storm room safe room. Here's the one we just did.

I was talking with a guy my dad knows pretty well. He sells, services, installs, and moves them for commercial businesses for a living. He said the last thing you want to do is buy a safe from a retail store like Cabela's etc. He claims those safes are junk. They are basically steel with a little sheetrock between the layers for "fireproofing". He said he can get in one of those safes in about 5 minutes. Real safes have a good steel outer shell, lined with concrete with rebar for fire protection in the center, then the burglar proof steel as the last layer of protection before the inside. All safes are rated for fire protection and also burglar proof protection. The burger proof rating is how long it would take someone who knows how to break into a safe to get inside. He showed me a safe that was in a local business that got robbed. The burgers had 8 hours to try and get inside. After 8 hours, they got thru a small section of the outer layer and only one spot about 3 inches around the inner fireproof layer before they reached the actual burger proof inner steel layer. Thats where they gave up. I'd try and contact a guy like I described. I was surprised how many used safes this guy had laying around. My brother bought a used one from this guy for $900 delivered that weights 6,000lbs. It's sitting safely in his garage.

I just wish for a second one