Of course there is no answer set in stone MC, but there is a somewhat predictable outcome in certain circumstances.

High pressure vs. low, and high population vs. low are at opposite ends of the spectrum as far as behavior and tactics are concerned.

Anything is possible in a high density and/or low pressure atmosphere.


Using too much lure and using a lure too much can cause the same type of avoidance.

When you combine those two things you can educate a bunch of coyotes in a hurry.

I realize that Tejas just playing devils advocate... what’s the old saying in trapping ...never say never and never say always.
Your post is right on the money....attempt to be subtle, leave very little human scent and sign behind and set them trails up blind. Natural is best...until it isn’t.

I had a friend who dropped a bottle of Gusto in a rock road and it shattered. So he set a trap right there. In a pile of buckwheat hulls. It was supposed to snow that night so he didn't try to cover or blend the buckwheat hulls, just spread them over a couple foot area, bedded a trap in them and covered with buckwheat hulls. It didn't snow, but when he came back he had an adult female wolf that had walked up and stepped in a pile of buckwheat hulls in the middle of a black rock road, with a WHOLE BOTTLE of Gusto dumped there.

Yet I've never had canines come close to Gusto except when it has been opened and then aged at least a year to mellow. Attracted to and circle thirty feed out, yes, but not come close enough to have worked a set. Sometimes animals are individuals, and you will get the outlier that will make a liar of you when you state absolutes.

Well...I reckon Im the odd man out...lol

Im a #5 lure user, but I use bait only at most sets....no lure.

I still dig a bunch of dirtholes. Probably 75% of all sets.

Swamp, you mentioned you use bait by itself, but you make a lot of hole sets.

Do you use just lure down the hole at some of those sets, or is your lure usage mostly at flat, post, or toy sets?

Tejas,
I have read all your posts and have a question on new traps. I just got in 2 dozen mb 550's. Should I degrease them or just go set. not really wanting to do the dip wax route. What do you do?
Thanks in advance

By gosh, this is one of the best threads I have followed in a long long time. Thanks to everyone who has contributed.

Mac

I’m with Mac. Awesome educational thread. Thanks to everyone for the discussion and information sharing

Lure usage is mostly at flat and post sets.

I gang set most of my locations since I am not one to put a trap here and one there etc. Minimum of 2 traps then up to 3-4 at what I consider a good location. If setting up a draw station or feed lot the sky is the limit at times for how many sets I feel I should use.

That being said, for the basic East and Midwest trapping locations I mix up my lure and bait use at each trap set. 2-3 different lures and baits/urine are used. Some sets one odor some have 2 -3 odors of sorts. I keep records of each set and what is used. The results are very interesting.

It is hard to determine which set caught first at a gang set up I but have caught many doubles, triples and quads over the years doing this presentation.

I found Egg based baits and lures worked best in some areas while red meats, meat based lures and glands in another. I always designated one set to be what I deemed as the call lure station set at my gang set up

Interesting observation was I used some sweet based fruit baits every year and catch predators all winter on them as well. Even caught a few bobcat on some sweet fruit flavored paste baits used at hole type sets.. I imagine the sweet odor curiosity caught the cats attention.

This system allows me to monitor which lure / bait seems to produce better at that time of year in that area. Within a week or two I can see a pattern develop pretty quick.

These finding may help to prove that different areas are providing different food sources or that some animals seemed to prefer some food / odor choices over another. It is very interesting the things that are learned through experimenting and testing. What you think should work every where doesn't always pan out that way.

There are lots of variables in trapping and that is what probably keeps us all so intrigued with what we do.

I agree this is a GREAT THREAD,good record keeping of patterns etc. weather,lure response male female adults or pups,my record keeping is good but nothing like James I remember Jack Whitman Gulo praising Jamrs record keeping and thats coming from one of the TOP TRAPPERS Jack is very humble.I've stated earlier listen to people and soak things up,you can learn a lot from some trappers and never get satisfied and get in a rut,we are learning more each year we trap,when you think you know all the answers go are going backwards fast.The animal will always be your best teachers some are easier to figure out than other's that just the way it is.Have a great rest of the weekend.

Guys I have trap some farms and ranches for years.I will tell you i do not catch every coyote i kept them at a manageable rate.Over the years i have kept notes then when i find something working i get away from doing it.I use 70 percent dirt holes 20 flat sets 10 post sets. I use bait , lure. urine combinations same stuff. Do you thing that coyotes from last year avoid my sets and combinations this year? Some years same locatins if there is sign.I would like to know what you think.

Len I am not sure about avoiding your old sets but I think Matt Jones said this, “ Those old set locations become scent posts spots that all the predators come over to check out.” It makes sense. And after a bit the investigating animals become relaxed about stepping all over the old location.

More thoughts on extreme scents and being subtle....for the trappers that utilize kneeling/ setting canvas’ to make and remake trap sets...do you use the same canvas after catching a skunk? Do you use a different setting canvas for remakes?

I think a great location will catch you coyotes year after year in most cases.

I'd guess that a lot depends on how much pressure you are putting on the population in that area every year.

What you do at those locations that can have a big impact..

If you go back with the exact same smells and hole sets in the same area year after year it’ will cost you coyotes over time.

Switching up looks and smells can really help you stay in step with Wile.E.

It also depends on what your main focus is. Is your goal putting up fur or killing fawn killers?

Sure, you can pick up the "B" Team on just about anything. The first string is a totally different story

Do I think the educated coyote crew remembers location, smells and looks? You Betcha !

Some wreak havoc, and some totally avoid sets.

Great observations Tejas.

I trap ranches year after year for 3-6 months (fall and winter - lambing time).

My goal is to trap every last coyote on every ranch. Of course, that is impossible. But that is the idea.

The uneducated ones come quick. Then it slows down and I pick up a few at a time when they move around.

A combination of fence snares and foot traps is tough to beat. I try to make it hard for a coyote to go from one end of a ranch to another without getting pinched. About 75% come in snares and 25% in foot traps. Sometimes more, sometimes less. It varies from year to year and ranch to ranch.

It takes a lot of work, but it is effective in my experience. I check a lot of traps and snares. Hundreds a day. That is a lot of empty sets. And a lot of coons, skunks, foxes and hogs in my coyote sets. But saving lambs and kid goats is worth it. And the deer, turkey and quail benefit too.

Good stuff Centex....I like your attitude.

MC, I certainly see what you are getting at with the cross contamination.

I use a canvas for new sets and the kneeling pad for remakes.

The same kneeling pad is used at new sets, but the 5x5 tarp covers the entire work area.

I have no doubt that my first night and overall catch has increased because of the tarp.

No doubt that odor transfer can be good or not so good in some circumstances. For some it takes years of field experience to recognize its importance. In a non-stressed animal environment, you can get away with most anything without worries. Pups / YOY don't see any problems, but the older dogs and females have very different interpretations of such odor encounters.

Precautions should be taken when going into a long -term control program working the same general area. It is night and day with seasonal run and gun and moving on philosophy every few weeks. It can be frustrating and challenging at the same time. But that's what makes us better, those who stick it out.

That’s exactly right CT!

In my case killing coyotes is all about protecting fawns and the deer herd in general.

We did our helicopter survey at the end of last year and we had over 80% fawn recruitment.

Our post-rut buck mortality has dropped as well.

I know for certain when we start seeing a few grey fox here and there we are putting a substantial hurt on the coyote population at least for the time being

It's super dry here now and the buffelgrass along with other important ground cover is very sparse. If this drought continues up until when the fawns are born there will not be many places left for a new-born to hide. That will of course result in a much higher mortality rate. That fact alone prompts me to kill every coyote I can to hedge my bet just in case we don’t get enough rainfall to provide adequate cover.

Digging after the fact never helps.




The deer density and prickly pear make using drags out of the question.


Female - Flat Set - Winter Wolf - G-Dog Urine