Ok litterly just came from out the shop. Yeah I know 1a.m I have a slight problem but hay Read what y'all where saying about Mr. Conners wishbone stabilizer aaannnnnnd my ADHD too full effect. So 30min and a rod of 6011 later I get this deal .



It's made completely out of 1/4" hot rolled and one 5/16th steel nut. It's trap specific though just messing around I can get a Duke #4 to fit on it but not ideally. Anyhow this one is made specifically for a stock TS 85. And further more specifically to have it in the orientation. Again this is for stabbing your trap into the bank where the water is too deep to bed it traditionally. Or whatever y'all use this type of stuff for ,idk I'm not much of a water trapper so yeah this deal supports the trap with both bottom supports under the leaves and top down pressure.


Four studs fit under the leavers and keep it from tipping if the leavers are hit first . I didn't really measure but I'd guess I got less then 1/4" worth of wobble from putting pressure on wither the back or forward facing leavers.




Now the deal is though you also need something that's going to cause downwards pressure to keep the trap from tipping either left or right for whatever reason. Personally I can see the beaver coming up and hitting the trap lever with there chest causing it fall off the platform. So to alleviate there's two hooks that slip over the the cross frame of the trap. Heck with these you can literally set the trap upside down if you wanted for whatever reason


Now the hooka however are pointed ow towards the water and are short enough so that when the trap fires and the beaver takes off it's basically gonna just let the trap slip off.however it is likely it with get a little hung up so I added a 5.15 but on the side so you can wire it cable or whatever to your drowners top stake or what have you


So far this is the only one I've seen that supports the trap in a step between fashion. Everything elese is a step over . Idk
Aaaannnnnnnnnyyyyyhow there ya go watcha think ,rip it apart if ya can lol

O and sid note , your chain your be sitting on top on the stabilizer,not though it. Do t wat it going with the trap and all...
Update video on explaination up

Love it! Looks good.

looks like it will work good

Very cool, I'd have never thought of that should work great in the right situation.

Should work

Man, you put a lot of work into that baby! Good job. That's a much better design than the one where they come in across the jaws rather than between them. You can sleep now.

Awesome thinking

Thanks for having insomnia!! lol. Super idea!

great work, Wolfdog!

I could show you a trick with a folding pruning saw and a B&L 44 that might hurt your feelings...

I like it!

Way to go! My kind of Doctor Gadget work to solve a trapping WANT. An hour or two in the shop can save tens of hours in the field on sets you use a lot season to season - or can make sets not possible POSSIBLE(and fast).

So how are you going to stabilize the stabilizer?

Sorry but I have my doubts on how this Is going to work.

What do you mean by that ?

It looks good but I think Beav is asking is how stiff is it. I see how it is shoved into the bank but is it stiff enough not to flex when the foot comes down. That would effect how well it fires or if the beaver detects movement.

That's my train of thought.
There are going to be banks where your not going to be able to shove those rods In to It. Then there are going to be banks where they are so soft It won't support the stabilizer and the trap.
The other problem I see Is your pretty much going to have to target a front foot. With the stabilizer rods shoved tight Into the bank the trap Is going to be tight to the bank.
I give you a A for effort but I see lots of problems with that system.

If one would just bed his beaver traps like you would your coyote traps most of your problems would go away.

Try sticking those short prongs into a soft bank and support a heavy trap

Sorry didn't realize how slow i type

Two or three stick cuts knocked in the bank to make a shelf trap on top right ?

My solution to the problem (the problem being a steep bank into deep water) for trap placement is just to go on to the next spot instead and bed a trap normally. But I look at potential trap spots the same way for conibears too. You can almost always make a spot work if you put in enough effort (or bring specialized trap companion gear). The smart trapper will look to make the effort-to-fur ratio as small as possible. And try to not fill up your pack basket,ATV, or boat with excess clutter.

I'm just commenting what works for me and I'm a fur trapper with literally hundreds of river miles worth of potential trap spots.... so I can afford to be a little picky.

Yup, leads right back to the folding pruning saw...