What is the best liquid application to spot spray crabgrass, I have not had great results with Trimec. Thanks.

Bad stuff. If you burn it, the smoke will take root.

Attached is a link with some options. These are all post emergence products. There are pre-emergence products you can review as well.

About 4 years ago I had a huge increase in crabgrass growth. My grass portion of my yard is about .65 of an acre. I used a product on the crab grass the first year and got limited reduction. I can't remember the herbicide I used the next year but I applied to the clusters twice that year and some a 3rd time. That cost about $140, but I got about a 90% reduction with that approach. I have not applied any chemical since but watch closely. As stated I don't have experience with the pre emerge types or how well they work and when to apply. All I know is apply post emerge as soon as you can as the smaller and younger the growth the better results.

Bryce

https://lawnphix.com/products/crabgrass-killers/

Pre emergent works well but you can still get crabgrass later and most of it is dry application and mixed with fertilizer.

I spoke with a guy at the local farm supply an he said he had a product that you had to spray once every year for 3 years to get rid of it. Don’t remember what the name of it was

Marty,

If you are just spot-spraying the young crabgrass within your other grasses/plants you don't wont to kill. I would hit it with about 41% glyphosate at about 3-4% in a hand sprayer. Usually does the trick for me in the garden with a spot sprayer. Can use a piece of cardboard or something else to help protect it from killing the stuff you want. Careful though, that mix will kill/setback just about any grass/weed it touches.

I know glyphosate gets a bad rap, but it serves its purpose.

Roundup makes a crabgrass destroyer that doesn’t kill your lawn. It works pretty good if you hit it right.

What I've been told is you want your crabgrass preimergent on by the time the red bud trees bloom which is around April 15th in ne kansas. Put it on as a dry glandular with spring fertilizer that application is only good for about 3 months by then it's too hot to fertilize so you need to buy preimergent by itself and that is expensive.

I've had real good luck with the preimergent that's mixed with fertilizer. The secret is not to put it on too early. The old fellows in town say when the lilacs are blooming, also heard Mother's Day. Other claim a certain phase of the moon

Q4 plus does pretty good. Actually about as good as anything else I've used.

Look for a pre emergent called Dimension. Evade is a genetic. You want a pre emargent. You want to get it down when the forsythia is still in bloom

If it’s emerged, “Drive” herbicide does a great job if you mix it according to the label

I used to have the nicest lawn in the neighborhood. I let it go once the wife insisted on taking over the mowing duties. She is a habitual scalper, and by the end of year 2, all we had left was crabgrass and clover. We now have rabbits coming out of our ears which i enjoy. As long as we don't draw in crabs from all of the crabgrass, I'm happy with it.

Thanks everyone, if I use each recommended method 1x I should be good to go....

Did I mention that I sing and dance as I do my applications? One of my favorites...played it over an over while spraying 24d with my pack sprayer this eve....I believe a few of the pedestrians passing by thought I was nuts...

Marty, you would be perfectly normal in Florida! The singing and dancing thing. Also going to the park where there's alot of people to practice karate moves so everyone can be impressed.