Last year and now again this year I’m seeing a few tomatoes with rot around the stem. On some tomatoes it extends into the core. Anyone seen this issue before or know of a treatment?

Never seen or heard of it before. Found this. https://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/IND43967166/PDF

Looks like a blight !
We got hit hard 3 years ago , with a blight that I know went from Ohio into New York .
There's a spray that helps, but has to be used as soon as you notice it.
I can find out what it's called, but have to go to Amish farmers or a friend that works for a fertilizer and spray company .

I have treated with copper fungicide. Added calcium via gypsum and calcium nitrate. Not all plants are affected. Just here and there.

We use a product called tomato rot. Believe it compensates for a calcium deficiency.

I did not find that article in my searches. Thanks for posting. Good info.

I use stop rot/ yeild boost

blossom end rot is the most common issue thaat this helps

Blossum end rot is typically the cells collapsing from the blossum end and can go right through the tomato

https://www.amazon.com/Rot-Stop-Tom...&hvtargid=pla-310489050238&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Voluntary-Pu...&hvtargid=pla-311639450561&psc=1

I have used both products

the way I think of it right or wrong is that the building blocks of plant cell walls is calcium

like a chicken egg with in-sufficient calcium the shell is weak , thin and brittle .

likewise cell walls of the fruit be it tomato , zucchini , melons , peppers need these building blocks of cell walls to keep up with the rapid growth

when you spray with either product as both are calcium deficiency treatments you stop the blossom end rot and increase production I generally start spraying once a week when plants start setting blossoms.

I should probably spray one row starting now and the other when they set blossoms and see how much bigger the early sprayed plants get , just never got to that

I just set out my small tomato plants 4 days ago. They are about4-6 inches in height. I pour some copper fungicide in a bucket with water and dip the whole plant in the solution before setting. I then put down 12 inch wide black landscape cloth down the row. I also spray every 7-10 days about 2 months or 6-8 weeks. I have never had the stem rot type but the blossum end rot can be tough, even with hybrid varieties with decent resistance. I will cage the plants in about 2 weeks. Anything I can do to keep foilage away from soil spores I try to do. Over the last 6 years I have had two really bad blight years and that is why I am using as much fungicide as I do use.

I plant mostly detertinite varieties. I am going to experiement more in the future with indeterminite varieties as they continue to grow after they start blossuming and setting ftuit. The new growth may come aver the wilt issues are less or gone.

Bryce

That's the way it was here too.
It looked like someone took a blow torch to the plants , burned the leaves .
Then even the tomatoes looked the same .
I know what you're saying about the copper fungicide but that's not what we needed here.
In just a couple days the plants were all burnt looking and lost !
It wasn't lack of calcium either .
It spread quick to all the plants , unless sprayed with something , that I have to check up on again , as I have used it , but forget what it was.
It was the strangest blight I've ever seen .
The last three years it seems to be on pepper plants , haven't had a harvest in two years now .

I find it hard to believe the tomato goddess didnt know

Many years growing highly "pushed" golf turf, by pushed I mean the highest rate of growth the season and weather permits. Fungus almost always needs moisture and dead air. Morning dew and dampness are an enemy. I put a tablespoon of bone meal in the hole when planting, then mix some bloodmeal in the soil around the base. I prune lower leaves off, space plants so when full growth is attained plants do not touch. I use above mentioned sprays, adding a tablespoon of Dawn dish soap along with Hydrogen Peroxide. The dish soap breaks surface tension of water, causing dew drops in the mornings to lay down and evaporate much quicker. The soap also beats back tiny mites, dew drops, bugs and mites spread the fungus from soil spores all over the whole plant. As far as the tomato rot right at the stem of the tomato, that is the last place that dew dries out every morning. Never water plants when foliage cannot dry off, rain can't be controlled but your sprinkler can. I start a spray cycle at half rate long before blight symptoms appear. I added a third garden plot this year to rotate tomatoes, not growing in same spot each year. Mulching to prevent soil splash onto plant is important. About 2 weeks before the canning of tomatoes starts, I circle each plant about a foot out with a spade, that force ripens all tomatoes at the same time. I leave a few plants for sandwich and slicers till first frost.

Everyone is talking about blossom end rot on here, but this is the opposite of that. His are rotting from the stem end.

Blossom end rot is a physiological disease caused by a lack of calcium absorption. Low C levels and uneven watering are the culprits. Even with adequate soil levels of calcium you can get it with uneven watering which messes up calcium absorption.

The pictures do not appear to be tomato blight as the leaves look healthy. Copper can be a good control with bacterial and fungal disorders. Watch out because phtyotoxicity can be an issue with copper. Do a little bit first and make sure your plants tolerate whichever copper compound you're using.

X2, not blossom end nor blight.

I'm going with fungal or bacterial and the recommendation of spacing, pruning, getting some airflow to reduce holding moisture on the plant. Not because I know what the rot is but I know wet tomatoes are disease prone.

If I had to recommend anything, I would recommend getting your soil evaluated. Get a soil ample box from your local ag extension. Sample evaluation is free.

I am thinking a potassium deficiency. A total guess.

A soil sample will tell you a lot about what is going on and give you the ability to adjust your soil.

It could also be a nitrogen deficiency in early development.

All just a shot in the dark.

Could be a soil/nutrition shortage. I hadn’t considered that. Just strange to me it doesn’t affect all fruit on the plant. Leaves are healthy. Only some of the fruit on any given plant is affected. Not present on all 40+ varieties I’ve got growing.

I’m surprised no one else has seen this….lucky me.

Go to a forum called Tomatoville. If anyone would know, they would.

I’ll check it out. Thanks.