What did you rig up for a fleshing beam? I don't got money right now, so looking for a redneck/homemade fleshing beam. Any ideas? TIA

I took a oak board an got measurements and went to work.

Made mine and 2 others for buddies out of a clear Pine 2x6. Just started cutting trimming and sanding until they Matched fleshing knife. I have mine hinged to my work bench.

This isn't what I have, but this right here is the ticket!

So you do it the width of the fleshing knife? Are you talking about those 2 handled fleshing knives?

I wouldn't use pine- I would use hardwood, just glue up two pieces, cut with band saw or scroll saw and belt sand to match fleshing knife. Many individuals do not match their boards to their fleshing knife- I always have.

This might be a dumb question but what does it mean to match it to your fleshing knife?

Not a stupid question at all- I have a Necker 600 the radius contour of my blade matches the board radius- you will hear differing opinions- I learned that way and have done it ever since

Not the complete width of the knife. Talking 2 handled knife. Pine works just fine I did put about 5or 6 coats of polyurethane on them. It’s actually pretty easy to do any very basic. I’ve put up countless coyotes, lots of cats and a bunch of other critters on mine.

If you look in the F&T closeouts they sell fleshing beam "seconds" for almost half the price.

If you were closer I’d give you the extra 1 I have.

Curve of the beam should match the curve of your fleshing knife or your not going to be as efficient fleshing hides as youd like. Too much curve and your fleshing a narrow strip with the pushing side of the knife. Not enough curve and youre gonna have to get creative to flesh hides.

X2

Unless you are always holding your fleshing knife at a 90 degree angle to your beam matching them doesnt do anything.
might be OK for pushing fat thats all.

I'm skinning now- but here's a quick pic

Looks good, Eagleye. So Boco, you don't think I need to?

Never been an issue for me.

I've never used PVC as a fleshing beam but many people use and like them- another option

I have to build another one .

I have a southern yellow pine fleshing beam, and dont have any issues with it. Is there something I should watch out for? Asking because I dont know.

Personal preference, I would think pine would get nicks and/or gouge marks after a while- I prefer hard maple but use what's available as long as it's clear pine and knot free.

Hardness is the main thing. When you push past the edge of the hide, youll nick and gouge the wood. Youll have so sand those a lot.

Wood Species Hardness
Hickory 1820
Locust 1700
Hard Maple ( Sugar) 1450
Coffee Bean 1390
White Oak 1360
Ash (White) 1320
Red Oak (Northern) 1290
Heart Pine 1225
Black Walnut 1010
Black Cherry 950
Paper Birch 910
Cedar 900
Southern Yellow Pine 870
Douglas Fir 660
Chestnut 540
Hemlock 500
White Pine 420
Basswood 410
Eastern White Pine 380

That's kinda what I was thinking. This is a plan that might work :

Get a pallet and cut one of the crossed boards to the size of the pipe. Then closer to the front(according to angle) put 2 2x4 side by side. The width between them should be the size of the pipe. Then put a crossbars so the pipe stays up.

(You might not be able to understand. Its kind of a rough draft))

Use a 2X6 cut out in the shape of a large fox board with edges curved. This size and shaped beam will accommodate all pelts larger than mink, marten, muskrat, etc which are easily fleshed on their own shaping boards using a small pelt (stirrup) fleshing tool. Also build it to fit your height angling up to your solar plexus. Made out of pine, fiber glassed to reduce/eliminate nicking and 30 years old:

My beam is made from white oak; bought it years ago. My son made his using a knot free, yellow pine 2x8 ... seems to work well for him with my old necker. I believe he used a coon board as a layout pattern.